|
|
|
A while back, I recall seeing a pictorial of removing, separating and reassembling both DS & PS motor mounts. It was a very nice write up. I can't seem to find it anywhere here. Anyone out there point me in the right direction. Thanks.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Bob,
Veteran of over a hundred motor mount replacements, pretty quick now, but there are definitely a few tips.
First, you will save a huge amount of hassle and delay by removing your alternator and its bracket. You don't have to pull the alternator out, so the wires don't need to come off, but disconnect your battery, unbolt the alternator and suspend it from above. Take the bracket off the block and remove the oil filter.
Now the change! I do NOT recommend doing both mounts at the same time. Loosen the D Side crossmember nuts but do not remove them. Remove the P side nuts. Use your jack to carefully raise the engine, but you don't need to get the bolts clear of the crossmember. An inch or so will do. Then unbolt it from the block. A ratcheting box wrench is very handy for the front bolt. Use an air ratchet with swivel and extension on the other two, from underneath, and zip! Lift it clear of the crossmember.
When reassembling the PS on the bench, don't forget to put the front block bolt in before you finish assembling the biscuit and brackets. Though it may clear your old, squooshed biscuit, it won't clear most new ones, put it into the top bracket while it's apart.
Once assembled, lower it into the crossmember and bolt it to the block. Put the nuts on just a few threads. On the DS, I get to all three bolts with the air ratchet and a swivel, no extension, from under the car, behind the crossmember. Don't have to remove anything to do it. Block bolts are not all the same length on most cars I've done, so take care. I think the front one is the short one.
Don't overtorque the block bolts, and remember not to let your jack act directly on the drain plug in your oil pan. Use something to spread the load to the pan evenly, or better yet, something across the fender ledges that allows you to raise the engine from above. I think there's a picture on Art's site of something like that.
My experience is that if you completely remove both mounts, unless you have been able to keep the engine in perfect alignment in respect to the crossmember, it moves. Then getting it back in the right place to get the first mount started is a pain, requiring levers and lots of grunting. Doing one at a time maintains alignment and saves a lot of aggravation.
|
|
-
|
|
Last time I did motor mounts was on the '89 wagon. I used cheap aftermarket and now regret it.
I replaced the PS some time back because it failed entirely.
Now I need to do the driver's side, like tomorrow, since the weather permits.
HERE'S THE PROBLEM
As I recall from the last adventure, the AC compressor was a huge pain in the ass. Any tips there?
Oh, and if you're wondering, for replacements I'm using the used Genuine Volvo mounts that I took out of the 242, also replaced with Genuine Volvo. I found them lying around in the garage and wondered why I bothered to change them. They still look good. Good enough for the wagon, anyway.
But what about that compressor? Do I worry needlessly?
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
|
|
|
The AC compressor is not in the way of the motor mount. If you access the three bolts on the driver's side from in back of the crossmember as noted in my post, you'll have no problems at all.
As to any danger of the engine shifting while it is being lifted with a jack, that is why I recommend doing one side at a time. Unless both mounts are completely torn, the engine can't go very far. If one side is torn, do that one first. The other side will keep the engine in place. If both mounts are torn and the engine has already shifted, then you are going to suffer some getting it back into the right spot anyway, so the "one side at a time" scenario is moot.
I have a piece of hardwood with a curve chopped out of it just the width of the pan. In the middle of the curve is a hole that the drain plug sits in. It's my block for the jack when I do motor mounts. Not necessary, but not a bad idea. Do be careful regardless. On stock height cars I do this without even raising the vehicle. On lowered cars I use ramps.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Comforting though it is, that's not what I remember. Maybe I wasn't doing it right. I'll read your post again. You've helped me out in the past so why not this time?
I should take a good look at it one more time. But I'm pretty sure that driver's side mount is going the way of the passenger side mount that completley separated. The motor tends to rock.
Beck-Arnley. Never again.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
|
|
|
Not sure I understand what's up. Are you saying the engine is already off center because both mounts have torn?
DS
|
|
-
|
|
|
No
The right mount is good. I had replaced it a couple of years ago. I mentioned it previously in this thread. I put off doing the left mount but I want to take care of that now.
The right hand mount I used and the left hand mount that I intend to use are Volvo parts. Previously I had used cheap mounts and this is the result.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
|
|
"On lowered cars I use ramps."
Some loooong ramps, eh?
I know it means a trip to Home Depot, but...
Save your pan gasket. Ditch the risk of shifting the motor on a jack - even do both mounts in one shot; spend $12 on a piece of unistrut. In the electrical aisle. Oh, and get a threaded hook.
Yeah, I know y'all have seen this a dozen times before, and I think it is even in Steve's 7/9 FAQ.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
When you've seen one shopping center you've seen a mall.
|
|
-
|
|
|
And yeah, got a set of those looong Gorilla ramps. Indispensable for the FWD cars in the family too, with their long front overhang. We save the old yeller metal ones for the pickup.....that I don't own.
|
|
-
|
|
|
There it is! I'm busy typing away about the famous shot of the brace to support the engine from above...without checking other posts first.
If the engine has shifted, that's the key.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I never get tired of seeing it, Art. I have that piece of unistrut and the hook at the ready.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Bulletproof,
I have done only twice on each side. By no mean, I am a baby and I think someone should answer your question. :D
Bob didn't sound too familiar with the mount changing process. I wanted him (plus others) to know how difficult and dangerous it can be.
I just checked out the engine to refresh my memory. I was laying down and accessed from the bottom. Looking up, I can see the underside of the intake manifold. There is enough room to put one of my arm and a ratchet.
Does 89 AC compressor different than 87?
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Dave,
I used this HFT ratchet so that I didn't have to remove my alternator. But I had to remove the mount from the bottom. Mine is 87.
--
Hi Bob,
If you are planning to use a wood stud and a jack to lift the engine. Please be careful.
Hopefully, you have a flat driveway.
Support the front of car on jack stands.
You need to be very careful when jacking up the engine as the oil pan flange is in angle. It can get tipsy.
Please make sure the wood stud gets a good grip against the oil pan flange and stays vertical the whole time.
If you are removing from the bottom. Your body needs to be stay still as you remove, please don't kick the jack.
Good luck my friend.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Xraybob,
FYI. Dave Shannon took down his web site while back.
On the driver side, this is how I changed it per Volvo from Heck advice. Unlike the passenger side, You do have to remove the lower and upper mounting bracket. Good luck.
"If you remove the six nuts under the cross member which secure the two lower mount brackets you can lift the motor from the front edge of the pan--or the pulley. You only have to lift the motor enough to take the weight off the mounts. Then remove the three screws securing the upper bracket to the block from the remaining mount to be changed. Take the entire assembly to the bench for the actual mount changeover. -- Dave"
click here for driver side mount replacement.
|
|
|
|
|
