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Power loss and haywire instrument panel. 200 1991

The other day i experienced a strange thing in my'91 240 wagon. After driving approximately 20-30 on the interstate, i lost most power to the accelerator. Not a complete loss but enough that i was quickly losing speed and immediately pour in my hazards and began to pull over. But ass I'm about to pull over, all power returns to normal. Simultaneous with this was a drastic loss of power to the headlights and instrument panel and all of my gauges went haywire, tach going from 0 to 3000 and back down without the engine sounding as though those rpm's were real, gas gauge going from full to half and back, speedometer going up to 80 then down to 40 then up to 60 with no actual speed changes remotely close to that.

My first suspicion was an overheating problem only because it was a hot day and I've had previous problems in 90°+ temps while in the highway. But it happened again on the return trip at night when it was much cooler. Maybe the overheating has gotten worse but I've never had that problem at night.

Second suspicion was obviously something between the battery, the alternator, or any of the connections between. But I've recently changed the alternator and it tests good. The battery tests good as well. There was a slightly loose connection on the alternator but it was so slight i doubt it was the problem. I have doubts about the accuracy if the battery testing as good, though. My other '93 240 was unable to hold a charge overnight but the battery tested good. Replacing or fixed the problem. Also my Harley was unable to hold a decent charge while the battery tested good. Replacing it also fixed the problem. But I'm not sure a bad battery would cause a loss in power or the instrument panel to go crazy, so I'm stumped.

I would appreciate any guidance. ThankYou








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    Power loss and haywire instrument panel. 200 1991

    Ok. So the alternator has been replaced for the second time and is putting out a nice 14 volts. Once fully charged, the battery tested good but I'm keeping my eye on that. It's 3 yrs old, just suffered through a rough winter and two bad alternators, so the first sign of trouble and it's getting replaced. I haven't experienced any power loss or screwy instruments again yet so things seem to be ok for now. I'll be back if it's goes screwy again. Thanks








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    Power loss and haywire instrument panel. 200 1991

    I just now took the car out and started experiencing the loss of power again, this time less than a mile into the drive. I was close to auto zone and pulled in to get the battery checked. It tested bad at 85% charge but that might be inconclusive since the test should be done on a full charge. But even if the battery is bad, the system read that it was only recieving 7 volts from the alternator, so it would appear I got a lemon for an alternator. But calling the friend who helped me install the alternator my friend suggested there might be a fuse under the dash that is causing the instrument panel to go wild.

    So I'm still unsure if it's the battery, the alternator or some unknown connection somewhere. But the car limped home and won't start again.








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      Power loss and haywire instrument panel. 200 1991

      The engine needs a good battery to run correctly and the alternator needs to put out 13.5 - 14 volts to keep the battery charged. The first thing you need to do is solve the alternator problem.
      Dan








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    Power loss and haywire instrument panel. 200 1991

    My first thoughts were loose battery cables at either end or a connector from the positive wire to the terminal block on the fender. That little wire feed into the cars injection system and computer.

    There use to a in-line fuse in that circuit on earlier cars that would get corroded. You might check it out for green or looseness.

    Then I thought of ignition switch like GM worries and woes. Theirs was an under-length and under-sprung pin into a detent pocket.

    The Volvo switch is very reliable but not infallible!y
    Would you say, Is this acting like some one was turning the key off and back on one click each way in randomness?

    Has the ignition switch exhibited any behavior, when turning it through the twist, with nothing happen for a split second?

    In past times a CPS or power stage amplifier as the ignition system, could be a culprit.

    Good luck,
    More and better ideas will be coming forth! (:-).

    Phil







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