I've suspended the insurance on my Volvo 240 DL (1990) manual transmission for the next 6 months. Before garaging it, I've:

- changed the oil
- put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the gas
- washed the car
- put blocks behind the wheels and released the parking brake and put the car in neutral
- plan to roll the car about ~1-2' backward or forward each month to avoid flat spots in the Michelin tires
- disconnect the battery; about every 2 months I'll charge it for a few minutes

I was also thinking of adding air to the tires, but not sure what pressure to use. They normally have ~33 PSI.

I don't plan to start the car during this time to avoid moisture buildup in the exhaust system.

Anything else I should do prior to garaging it, or over the 6 months?

Thanks!

Thanks to all for the feedback!

JD

I would invest in a Battery Tender and just leave the battery in the car. Much safer than removing it and charging it periodically. Connect it up and forget it.
--
1992 745, >500k km

Sounds pretty much like I do every winter on the 83. I do fill the tank right up and add gas line anti freeze to make sure there's no moisture. I have never found the need for fuel stabilizer - it starts right up in Spring and runs fine. I use Shell V-power gas which, here in Canada at least, has no alcohol in it.

I charge the battery about once per month with a Battery Tender unit, which brings the battery up to 14.5V, then backs down to hold it at 13.2V. The battery is a Diehard "International" which is - believe it or not - 10 years old.

The car doesn't budge an inch for 5 months, but I've never had a flatspotting situation with the tires (Bridgestone Touranza-L) at ~34psi.
--
Bob: Son's XC70, my 83 240, 89 745 (V8) and XC60. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles

Excellent suggestions.

May not hurt to spray a can of white lithium grease, or heavy white lithium grease into all body hinges and latch catches. You know, the bonnet and boot lids, all doors.

If are not going away from your 1990 Volvo with M47 II manual transmission and have some time, you may want to take some time for a deeper than usual inspection and diagnosis of odds and ends.

If you mean not to run the engine at all or hand-turn the engine, you may want to remove the spark plugs and give it a cylinder lubricant, turn, and spray again. I forget, yet there exist some rather thick specialty spray lubes you spray into the cylinders to halt corrosion of the rings and cylinder walls.

You may want to run the engine, yet the draw back is that if you run the engine for a few minutes, you may draw moisture into the oil sump chamber (anywhere oil returns under low pressure or resides, like in the oil sump [pan]). You want to keep the engine interior dry.

How is the coolant and cooling system? How long has it been since you changed the coolant? Do not use orange color coolant in that redblock engine. I hope you are certain the coolant was mixed with good anti-freeze and and at least distilled, demineralized, or deionized water. Or a 50/50 coolant mix.

If you have some time it may not hurt to take some time for rust investigation. Under the carpet (maybe pull the seats). If roof rack, try and get into the big plastic plugs along the rear rocker panel for rust.

You may want to pull out the inner door panels and inspect the door interior for rust, inspect and lube the door handle and window lift assemblies. Clear the drains at the door bottom edge of any gunk. Inspect the metal seems in case the paint is cracked. You may want to replace the exterior window scrapers with the newer type made from (poron or ???) from iPd or R-Sport International.

You may want to pull up the cargo-area deck and remove the metal access plate in the metal floor that is directly over the fuel sending unit. Check for rust and filth and so on.

You can take the carpet to the self-service car wash and spray it clean and hang dry. Replace or keep the padding / sound deadening. It'll smell much better!

Maybe want to consider some upholstery work with the seat spring and lumbar support. Wash the (cloth?) seat cover by hand with detergent and, when dry, use that stain proofing stuff you spray on in several light coats (let dry). You can repair damage top the bun warmer grid.

May want lift your fabulous, if durable 1990 240 DL wagon onto axle stands. Anchor or set the lifted vehicle on the four jacking points.

Spend some time investigating the running gear, undercoating, rust, and other bit you may want to service.

If you give it a rest for six months, this may be a great opportunity for you to slowly and carefully, and in brief periods, inspect, diagnose, and remediate or plan to repair items in need or service.

Maybe want to take some time and give the clutch cable an inspect and clean and lube with grease.

Maybe want to inspect them rear wheel hub assemblies: parking brake pads and rear wheel bearings. A bear of a task. See whether the seals that separate the differential oil from the rear wheel bearing grease chamber as failed, as well as inspect, and (hopefully you need not to) replace the rear wheel bearings and races. You big blue (cheese) Bentley 240 bible service manual helps.

Maybe install some stereo upgrades using junkyard pulled parts and pieces?

Your OvLov will thank you.

Hope that helps.

MacDuffy's Stilton Cheese.
--

A good idea, re your "...If you mean not to run the engine at all or hand-turn the engine, you may want to remove the spark plugs and give it a cylinder lubricant, turn, and spray again. I forget, yet there exist some rather thick specialty spray lubes you spray into the cylinders to halt corrosion of the rings and cylinder walls...."

It's called fogging oil, invariably in a spray can. All boaters know it, because we usually only use our engines seasonally at best, and then some also use their boats less often than once a week -- so most of us will "fog" our engines for such longer interim periods. Pulling a spark plug and putting the spray in each cylinder lubricates the valve seats, piston rings and cylinder walls; many of us will spray into the carb's throat while the engine is running as well to lubricate its internals (yeah, not many marinized engines have fuel injection yet :-). And of course, in addition to lubrication, being thick, it also holds to those parts and stops corrosion as well (especially important in areas where you go boating, but as good other places as well).

Uncle Ken C,

Sir, thank you. "Fogging Oil!" To keep them cylinder walls, piston rings, and valves seats like new while they have a sic month retirement!

Just be sure it be silicon and led free. That Oh-2 sensor and that catalytic does not like the silicon or the led.

Auld ayge and senility ....

I forgot to suggest, while Uncle jdbs3 stores that Volvo, perhaps get or borrow a Motiv or similar power brake fluid bleeder and get some new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid in there. That is, if the brake fluid is anything darker and less opaque than a translucent dark tan.

Else, as brake fluid, save for sillycon brake fluid, is anhydrous, the corrosive properties of owld brake fluid can sit and rot the seals and ferrous metals inside the calipers and master brake cylinder.

Fogging Oil. I was not jockeying them search engines right to get an answer.

Thank you Uncle Ken C.

Happy Friday everybody! Each and everyone!

Please keep cool! Drink plenty of fluids! And take care of that RWD Volvo!

cheers,

Sun Tea Dude.
--
Teh answer is simple ....

When Beetlebomb is going to be off the road for snow season, I like to inflate his tires to the max pressure noted on the tire, that way all I have to do in spring is to let air out to the pressure that I use. It also makes it easier for me to roll him out on a good day to run him for a half hour or so.

I also stuff a glob of paper in the tailpipe to keep mice out and I put two mouse traps inside and four around the car to catch any mice around.

A company named Kness makes great mouse traps.

I agree with the Joekidds post about the battery as two months is too long between charges. It shortens the over all life of a battery especially if it has some age on it.

I would rotate it with another car if possible every couple weeks. Or get it completely charged up, out of the car and add on a battery maintainer. One that has float charging capabilities or just a plain float charger as they are very cheap on sale. So far, I like Harbor Freight ones that do one or multiple batteries.

Maintaining voltage at the upper end of its natural output equilibrium keeps the ions of the acid from absorbing into the plates as it will normal discharge from its own internal conductance/resistance properties. This slows down sulphuric reactions.

Tires are not a big problem indoors on concrete and out of sunlight. The best thing is off the ground on stands or stacked horizontally since you do not plan to even run the engine.

Run the engine to put the stabilizer (mostly naphtha) up to the front, past the volume in the main filter.

To leave them aired or not, I do not know. Some have them filled with dried nitrogen. I can't call that one as that might be overkill and air is 80% nitrogen anyway!

Over soil or grasses moisture comes up from the ground to collect under the frames, floorboards and onto engine areas.
The reason I bring this up is some people have what is called pole barns. Others are floors less sheds varieties made of metal, wood or canvas tents and say they were garaged?

Washing the vehicle is a nice touch but in six months it will be dusty and have fly speckles!
If you cover it with soft cloth and then plastic sheeting you will be happier!
Especially, if you are still using the garage something else the car will invariably have things laid on its flat surfaces out of convenience of the moment.

Unless your one of those freaky OCD people with absolutely no garage clutter or its an alphabetized, and categorized deep pile like mine! Yeah right? (:-)

Phil

Harbor Freight ones that do one or multiple batteries.

What model is this?
Thanks
Dan

I do not know the model.

It is strictly a float charger and they are usually go on sale for around six bucks. They use to be four. (:-(

They use to come in a box but when ever a company changes the packaging for a new look the price goes up!

With the boxed ones you could open them up and read the instructions.

I have had as many as three batteries on at once. Most are different sizes. If it's just a large car battery I use only charger per battery to be on the safe side that it has enough capacity. Smaller ones like motorcycles, lawn tractors or two in series 6 volts lantern batteries, it seems to handle them all at once.

If they are charged up to full capacity and has one of these on them you can leave it for a couple months and the battery voltage will be right up there. It only puts out like a half amp!

Only boogie boo about them is they are not fused. If you have it plugged it and short the leads their the unit is done!
It instructs you to plug it in as the last operation, when hooking it up and the first thing to unplug, when disconnecting.

I think I have four or five chargers that I have collected over the years.
If I am leaving any of my vehicle off line for more than a week, it gets one.
I can hook two cars onto one charger with a cord between the batteries still in the cars. I only lose a couple tenths of a volt for the wire length.

I have several (5) batteries pushing 10-13 years old and still kick right over.
It's starting to concern me that on my wife's car to a point that just bought her new one because she is out of town an awful lot. When I exchange care with her she I trade out batteries so hers is good to go!
I also rotate the oldest ones to the motor home as auxiliary batteries or cars least used and with a float charger on it of course!

If I ever turn a battery in for re-cycling, its is pedaled out! (:-)

Phil

Remove the grill and cover the intake pipe with gutter screen to keep rodents from storing/nesting in the airbox. If the hot air pipe is off plug that hole as well. I would charge battery fully with trickle charger ensuring plenty of distilled water/acid covering plates. I am about take one of my 240s offin august when my daughter goes to college as they still want to charge me almost $1000 for her insurance, registrations are valid and when she comes back I will just add it back to policy such BS. Never had a problem with flat spots just keep tires at 36lbs or so.