A new to me '85 245 has a no start issue that we've narrowed down to a faulty ignition switch unit. On the '85, is R&R of the switch as "simple" as removing the retaining screws, once access to them is achived, and replacing it with the new unit? I've heard nothing but grunts and groans from those who've done it in the past, but mostly on newer 240's. Any direction and or encouragement would greatly be appreciated.

Ok, here's the latest. Got the switch installed with the smaller hands of my youngest daughter....an easy job for her. Anyway, the car seemed to start much easier, but it never really fired up and ran. I'm wondering if this is a fuel pump issue. I had recently installed a known good main pump under the car from my son-in-law's '91 245. I did have to swap out the check valve off my '85 pump in order to fit the newer style pump. The wiring was color coded yellow and black respectively and just plugged in. Any chance the wiring should be reversed as when it does try to start, it's feels and sounds fuel starved. Switching the wires would make the pump not pump but suck. Any further direction? Thanks.

First what Randy said.

I did this on my 1990 pre-cable interlock. It was not easy. I Used an inspection mirror, and a stubby blade screwdriver while sitting in the drivers seat, in many contortions. Just make sure you make witness marks for switch replacement.

This might help, and good luck
Fred

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1485104/220/240/260/280/ignition_swich_replacement.html

You might consider removing the cluster. It makes it much easier on your neck and back than working from below.

Randy

Thanks everyone. I'll repost how it goes.

I haven't done ignition key switch work on my newer ('93) 240s, but I would guess that the reason for the grunts and groans on newer 240s is that it involves the transmission shift-ignition key-brake pedal "safety" interlock.

I have worked on the transmission shifter on these newer cars, and found that there is a cable (e.g., like a bicycle brake cable) the runs from the shifter to the ignition key switch. Tension on the cable, determined by the shifter's position (e.g., in Park, or not), controls whether you can turn the key to off, as well as (with the brake pedal) turn the key and take the transmission out of Park.

I would guess that it is this "safety" interlock cable and how it interfaces with the ignition key switch that makes work on these late 240s so much harder.

For your '85, I would suggest that it is not an issue to be concerned.

My 88 was just the two screws, philips head just awkward postioning to get at it.

Are the screws from the top or from underneath?

On the far end of the cylinder.
You have to unplug the socket connector and they are under it.
As I remember they maybe recessed. The replacement will explain how it fits when you get it your hand.

Phil

under the dash behind where key goes in