Hi all. My '88 245 has a tendency to leak water onto the fuse panel, and only if it's parked nose up on an incline.

Does anyone have any advice where I should start looking for the leak? My first guess is the rubber boot that seals the wiper bushing housing at the cowl. I suppose it could be the windshield, but I don't really want to think about getting a new windshield right now, nor do I want to disturb the windshield trim!

Check in the corner under the hood where the hood release cable goes through. That area is supposed to drain, but I've found factory caulking blocking the hole at the base where the metal is welded to the firewall. And had to pick though the paint and caulk to open the hole.

As for 3M butyl eg.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08612-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B000CQ4AOO

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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Well, upon further inspection, I notice condensation inside the windshield between the glass and the rubber strip that runs along the bottom. To me, this indicates the seal around the glass is leaking, which means that to get in and make an attempt at sealing it, I must remove the outside trim strip.

My worry is that in doing so, I will destroy the clips that secure the trim in place. In my mind, this is a cascading chain of events that lead to a windshield replacement, if I am concerned with the look of things once the leaking has been resolved. I suppose I could just remove the trim, seal the leak, and then proceed to smear silicone all around the gap left by the missing trim.

I'd rather not do that.

I've had actual experience with this dilemma you face, and the lesson I learned is this: Fix it sooner. Rust is the cause, and it is cancer.

If true to your screen name, you will want to keep this car.

Before undertaking the fix, heed my warning about checking to see if your current windshield is original. If not, it was likely set in polyurethane. Brittle clips are cheap to replace, but you can't get them out and back into hard as rock urethane. The butyl rubber that came with your car is more compliant and allows you to remove and reset the windshield even if you've never done one before.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Two cows are standing next to each other in a field. Daisy says to Dolly, "I was artificially inseminated this morning." "I don't believe you," says Dolly.

"It's true, no bull!" exclaims Daisy.

Art, I thank you for the advice, and after looking at the glass it seems the ghosts of prior repairs are coming back to haunt me. Had this been my car from new, I doubt I would be dealing with this now!

Down in the lower left of the glass, right where the leak seems to be, the word "SAFEVUE" in mocking me.

You are right, and I do have every intention of keeping this car for many years to come. With this in mind I now intend to replace the glass with the later version and integrated trim.

I once replaced the windshield on an '83 245GLT. It was broken by a deer collision and replaced under insurance coverage by Safe-Lite. This company and others similar will likely use their own product windows with polyurethane as the adhesive. Years later, I couldn't put up further with the consequences of their lower quality methods and products. BTW, Safe-lite refused to stand by their materials and workmanship in my case. I found a glass shop that did windshields for Volvo dealerships and had the job and materials done right. I watched the entire operation, inspected for rust and we did the leak test all at the shop. The window and trim used was spec'd for a 91+ model.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
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'92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Hi Mike,

How did the professionals do their leak test? This worked for me:


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

I went to a seafood disco last week...and pulled a mussel.

I needed you with me. I wouldn't have thought of this "air-whistle" test. The shop used the water hose test.
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'92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Could be they know something I don't. Giving it some thought, I suppose every kind of car is different inside, as regards looking for water coming in, but with the interior trim removed from around the windshield, they could probably spot any leaks no matter what kind of car. Just curious. Thanks.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"It could be said that burning wood for home heating is choosing 'a way of life,' rather than just choosing a fuel." -John Siegenthaler

Very clever!

Only way I know you can trace this is by waiting for a dry spell, then masking off the cowl and using a hose. Most likely spot is lower left corner of windshield. Unfortunately, most every wire conducts water as well as electricity and it has no respect for insulation -- and the lowest spot for a drip loop is the fuse panel. So the likelihood answer depends on too many factors you can't evaluate on your own.

You are right, disturbing the trim will quickly make your car ugly with brittled clips, and downright impossible to restore if not the original glass set in butyl rubber, without getting new glass. If you do, I recommend a 91+ version with integral trim.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

It appears autocorrect has become my worst enema.