I have a 94T, and the fuel gauge is often not 'on'. When it works it seems pretty accurate though. Also, the clock is a bit slow. The other instruments seem to work fine.
I also have the complete panel out of my now gone 93T. The fuel gauge and clock always worked fine, the tach was sometimes indicating too high, then would drop back to correct reading.
So I want to put the working fuel gauge and clock from the 93 into the 94 panel.
The 93 panel will not come apart at the bottom. All screws are out, and the top and sides separate fairly easily. The bottom is really quite stuck, all along the seam. I have not tried prying with tools yet, but a pretty strong guy pulling hard had no effect.
Any thoughts?

Dear jerryc,

Hope you're well. Two screws - that secure the back (white) part of the cluster to the front (black) part of the cluster - are not on cluster's perimeter.

These two screws pass through the blue-green flexible circuit card and are between indicator lamp bulbs 7 and 8 and 15 and 16.

Removing these screws should allow easy separation of the instrument cluster sections.

Gas gauges seem to be very reliable: I can't recall a post reporting a gas gauge failure. Most gas gauge malfunctions seem to arise from loose/corroded screws, circuit card defencts, or problems with the in-tank send unit/wiring.

Thus, I'd remove the gas gauge's screws and clean the underside of the screw heads with fine steel wool or an aerosol corrosion-remover. (e.g., Deoxit). A layer of oxide only a few atoms thick - and so invisible, certainly to the unaided eye- can break a circuit. You might want to clean the screw heade' copper contact point on the flexible circuit card. A pencil eraser will suffice, and will not risk damage to the circuit card. When you re-install the screws, tighten evenly. No great force is needed.

I'd guess that the gauge will work correctly. If not, I'd be concerned about the in-tank send unit. Before pulling the send unit, I'd put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner, and let it soak for a couple of days.

Gasoline is a witches' brew of compounds which - when burned - yields a specific amount of energy over a defined space of time. A wide range of hydrocarbons can meet that specification. Gasoline contains waxes (paraffins) and varnishes, that over time coat fuel system surfaces. Gasoline makers include ingredients (detergents) that slow the rate at which waxes and varnishes coat fuel system surfaces. Even so, slowly, slowly, there's a build-up.

Wax/varnish coatings don't damage fuel lines. But they could interfere with the float in the fuel send unit's barrel. If fuel system cleaner does not allow the float to resume moving freely, then perhaps it is time to pull the send unit.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks Jay, I am sure it's the gauge and not the sender. My 95 just as clearly Does have a sender problem, it reads accurately down to about 1/3 tank, then stays there.

The 94 gauge seems quite accurate and the warning light is correct also, just sometimes the needle reads zero. A Very hard hit on the dash has brought it up a couple of times but mostly that does not work; still I think it's in the panel or gauge. Perhaps the screws will cure it.

Never did this, but my fuel gauge works when it feels like, tapping the instrument pod helps. Had it out numerous times, tightened screws etc. Next attempt will be conductive paint as issue is flexible circuit board. I'd guess your gauge is fine, and your board is not. There is a hidden screw down there if I recall correctly. good luck. Mike