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Toe is adjusted by rotating the inner tie rod within the outer tie rod end to pull or deflect the wheel in the desired direction.
My questions are:
1. Push car 10 feet while steering wheel is unlocked(Ignition Key)?
While adjusting toe:
2. Steering wheel should be unlocked(ignition key)?
OR
Second person hold the steering wheel in center position because it is
unlocked(ignition key)?
OR
Steering wheel is locked(no ignition key) in center position.
Thanks.
Anil
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If you find it inconvenient/impossible/or you're too lazy to roll the car back and forth 10 feet, try this. Get 4 linoleum squares and make 2 stacks of two each with grease between them. Position the front wheels on the stacks. A slight bounce of the front end "relaxes" the front suspension components.
Been doing my own alignments for about 44 years. Seems to work for me as my vehicles handle well and evidence even tire wear.
I'm just a little bit leery of the professional with the $200,000+ equipment and low experience level and/or motivation to get it right. My guess is I get it right more often then they do.
Regards,
Tatra Mike
Seattle, WA
1985 244 "Alfsen" (wife's car - the good one)
1984 245 "Buster" (the kid's car, now sold)
1985 245 "Cosmo" (parts car, sold off for move to WA)
1985 245 "Daisy" (back seat down, full of tools, the work truck)
1985 245 "Earl (CA vehicle 'retirement' program)
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Center the steering wheel, then make the adjustment.
The steering wheel isn't going to move while you are making the adjustment, so you don't have to lock it. Rather the wheel is going to pivot in/out.
You'll need to maintain about a 1/8" toe-in between the two wheels, so both tie-rods may have to be turned.
If, for example, the steering wheel is centered but the car drives to the left, then you know you need to adjust the tie rods so that the wheels are pointed more to the right. In which case you need to rotate the left tie rod into the left tie rod end and/or the right tie rod out of the right tie rod end. While maintaining the correct toe-in.
You'll need to rig some kind of measuring device than can measure inside distances. Some kind of expanding rod.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
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1. Push car 10 feet while steering wheel is unlocked(Ignition Key is on)?
2. Steering wheel in center position should be unlocked(ignition key is on position)?
Thanks.
Anil
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"On this site people do not answer what they ask for, just tell unwanted things."
In the second paragraph of my reply I wrote, "you don't have to lock it" and explained why.
Your original post asked more than once about locking the steering wheel so I felt the explanation of why was necessary.
As for the rest of the "unwanted things", you appear to be unfamiliar with the procedure so I provided you with a breakdown. My bad.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
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Bradely wrote: "take it to an alignment shop, and for the cost of two restaurant meals". Your instructions was good.
Thanks
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Jack both front tires off the ground and place a piece of tape across the tread of each tire and mark it anywhere with a thin vertical line. Measure between the marks with a steel tape while the tape is in the front. Rotate to the rear and measure again. Adjust until the front measurement is 1/8th inch less than rear measurement.
That will get you to within enough toe in to get it to a proper alignment center but not enough to avoid a professional alignment.
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Steering wheel in center position should be unlocked(ignition key is on position)?
On this site people do not answer what they ask for, just tell unwanted things.
Thanks.
Anil
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"On this site people do not answer what they ask for, just tell unwanted things."
Are these homework questions in a certification program?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead to know basis.
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Art Benstein,
I consider you as one of the top most VOLVO mechanic.
While rotating inner tie rod, the steering wheel in center position should be unlocked(ignition key is on position)?
thanks
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Thank you for your confidence. If I should ever become a mechanic, I will include your reference message.
I consider you to be the very best customer a good New York tort specialist could have. You already have the knack for yes-or-no questions without qualification so you would be very effective on the witness stand. As you can see, I am better at giving non-responsive answers than providing ill-thought-out guesses to questions lacking any context.
This site has a better ratio of helpful replies to its posts than any other forum I've seen for automotive enthusiasts. We are honestly trying to help you, therefore you may expect questions in response to your questions, in order to dig from you the stuff only you can answer.
Here's one: Did you settle on your totaled '91?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Don't find fault, find a remedy. (Henry Ford)
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I would second Anils thoughts that Art is an amazing resource for volvo 240 anything.
Art, is it bad form to ask related questions in this thread that aren't digging for information from the OP but still on topic? Does NOT relaxing the tensions in the suspension cause other problems in the geometry?
I did my alignment on a 'probably level' asphalt parking lot and was able to dial in the specs to get a good alignment, however, I never rolled the vehicle 10' or bounced it to 'relax' the suspension. The alignment still seems great even after 3-5k miles on the vehicle and since then and no major wear on the tires or drifting at speed.
I never paid attention to the steering wheel position when I did it (it was the first alignment I ever did and was rushed to get it done), so eventually I'll be correcting that anyway. Just wondering if I need to do this extra bouncing/relaxing when I make that fix.
--
'82 245 B21F-MPG-LH 1.0, '83 244 B21FT-K-Jet, '86 244 B23F-LH 2.0
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"Did you settle on your totaled '91?"
I made a complaint at New York State Insurance Commission. They will talk to GEICO. The same car I replaced with new outer tie rods, ball joints, front control arms, poly bushings. runs great. outer edge of front passenger side tire
is gone. when weather gets better, I will replace front struts, strut mounts, oil pump.
To unlock steering wheel the key should be in ignition lock?
thanks,
Anil
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Here's the gadget I use with good, repeatable results.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trackace-Laser-Wheel-Alignment-System-Tracking-Gauges-Toe-in-Out-Tool-Tracker-/290919058716?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item43bc208d1c#ht_2511wt_1203
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That looks pretty slick. Can you explain (or point to a good paragraph or two) how it functions? Does that bar lay across the tire sidewalls?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Let's turn this into an alignment thread, as Anil seems to have left the building.
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Whoa! I love the laser level idea!
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I always use a laser level to adjust alignment on my car.
I use 2 shims that lay against the wheel rim so to have the laser level clear the tire wall. The laser level is attached horizontal with a bungee hooked in the rim holes, squeezing the shims.
To see the toe in I use a piece of 8 x 1.5 feet plywood that stand vertical on the rear bumper. The laser level is held horizontal and laser dot is marked on the plywood. Then laser level is attached to the other side of car and dot is marked. Now the distance from center of front wheel to the plywood resting on the rear bumper is measured. Plywood is placed in front of car at same distance and again laser level dots are marked on each sides.
The distance between the rear dot marks and the front ones is a good indication of what toe in is actually there.
The best setting is the one you get when you come back from a professional alignment shop.
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Just as a note regarding key position---turn to unlock--one stop before ignition on.
Alignment shops have a rig to hold the wheel centered--like Art's steering wheel lock it presses against the seat cushion. I don't think it's necessary to roll the car a full 10 feet to get the suspension/steering settled--I bounce the car a time or two and then roll it back and forth a few feet. String and a carpenter's level (for camber) can do a very credible job. -- Dave
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To repeat a currently well known quote;
What difference does it make . . . .
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TestPoint wrote--"What difference does it make . . . ."
If you are asking why roll the car?---to settle any deflection in the suspension bushings and tires--at least that's how I understand the procedure. At an alignment shop the the wheels would be placed on sliding plates -- but at home on the ground making any changes in toe or camber can cause "binding" -- you want to "relax" all the components. Have I ever tested rolling back and forth against not doing so? --- no, but then all my self alignments have been successful so why argue with the way I was shown. -- Dave
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We're subtly suggesting that you don't waste your time. But, as you wish: STEERING WHEEL CENTERED AND UNLOCKED.
B
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Or....take it to an alignment shop, and for the cost of two restaurant meals, the tech will put it on a $200,000 piece of equipment and align it by laser. I dunno....sometimes, having work done by a pro, as opposed to me trying to do the same job with a ruler, tape, and some string, just makes more sense.
B
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I'm not so sure about the pros. I have two tire shops I frequent here locally. One has the incredibly complex rack, big enough to mount a large RV, that probably did cost 200k. I gave up on them. They have done alignment for me three times in ten years--never correctly. On one occasion they did my wife's V70 and told me it was perfect. When she later complained I took it elsewhere. We know the car was hit once, we didn't know it had a bend in it that requires a camber kit to fix. They charge eighty for "alignment", cuz the rack wasn't cheap, and the operator is highly trained--chuckle.
On the other side of town is a shop with a couple of the old school racks with pivot plates on the rails where the car sits. They center the steering wheel with a gizmo similar to the "Club" being used in this thread's photos. Then one of the techs saunters down into the pit with his tape measure and wrenches and sets the toe. Before they do this they put a gauge on the rims and set the camber, and never tell me "You can't set camber on a Volvo". Once in awhile the steering wheel isn't perfectly centered. They road test the car. If it isn't, they put it back on the rack and do it again until it is. Thirty five bucks. Oh yes, they charge me forty if the car is lowered.
Setting alignment is one of those few tasks that it just doesn't even seem worth my while to mess with and get wrong. I'd bet every town has a place like my "good" shop, that does a measurement alignment, on proper gimbals, that will keep your tires from wearing. On a couple of occasions my guys have found something I've missed. The response to that is always "go fix this and come back", no charge of course.
I'm always amazed when people will seek help on a forum because they have become discouraged with the shop, then will argue on the forum that what the shop told them is right. Yes, by all means present your evidence. But please leave the contempt for the court off-line. I'm always amused when Counselor Benstein puts such a person in their place, eloquently.
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