I was off work today and the weather outside hit a balmy 51 degrees. So I decided to work on the seat bottom grid on my 245. I recently bought two new seat grids from IPD. I only had enough daylight to work on the front passenger seat. The seat came out quickly. Took me a while to remove the old grid and springs. I put a layer of duct tape on the foam to help prevent some of the wear against the springs. Took me a while to get the hang of stretching the springs back into place. The new seat grid seems better made with thicker wire to support the seat foam. After getting the seat back in place it is more comfortable. I also noticed that I sit up a bit higher now instead of sagging down. Overall 4 springs had come undone. The weather is supposed to get cold this week so I'll wait for a decent day and do the driver's seat.

The last time I rebuilt my seat, the original Volvo grid was no longer available and Dave Samuels had yet to enter the market place with his replacement, so I used a square piece of expanded diamond mesh, which I also use for modifying my BBQ smoker, which is another story.

The expanded diamond mesh has worked perfectly, and I have not had to redo this yet. When I was doing this repair, I felt like the Cubans must have, with how they have used anything available to keep their 1950's automobiles on the road.
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If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 349,928 miles, will she make it to 400K ?? >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Such great ideas... I've rebuilt a few seats in my day The next set will include the grid discussed here.. Plus I'd like to see Dave's video....

I've used a piece of carpeting between the foam and grid to improve support and help protect the foam.
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-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 303K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD

I'll jump in because it's a good opportunity!

Along the lines of Art's setup, I've build a tool that I use regularly to replace the springs on the grids. Leverage is the key! As to the grid itself, completely disappointed in how the thin wires in the iPD grids tear up the foam, and eventually fail anyway, I also used pieces of wire basket systems for years. The white enameled finish is very practical. Eventually I developed my own stainless seat grid though. Much more supportive.

I have a little video I've made of the best way to get the springs back into position. If anyone wants to see, e-mail me via the post and I'll be happy to send it.

And, a blatant piece of promotion, you can buy all sorts of neat seat rebuilding stuff at my Wagonmeister website (dot com).

Dave

Hello David,

I purchased a couple of your seat grids awhile back and took a few stabs at installing the springs, no luck. I haven't had chance to get back to it, but I'm glad to hear you have a video. Please send that to me.

Thanks Bruce,
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Bruce S. near D.C.

51 degrees Tee Shirt weather.

I used a big 'C' clamp to pull the grid toward the frame.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

I've had problems with the springs sliding off the ends of the seat grids when the cross wires come off. Getting the wires back on and keeping them on is a problem. So I went looking for a replacement grid.

Found it in the form of the 16" wire shelf sold in hardware stores. The spacing is about right between the wider crossbars (10"). Cut the shelf to 10" by 12" and installed. Seems to work.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Trev29--what a great idea! The last time I needed a grid I was in NC at my son's indy Mini shop. He had a wrecked car there for parts and the front seats have a stainless rigid grid--worked like a charm--but a hardware store item is so much more easily found.
I use an old fashion brake spring tool - the long part with the cupped end - to hook the springs. -- Dave

"I use an old fashion brake spring tool - the long part with the cupped end - to hook the springs."

I found that a Philips screwdriver allowed me to lever the spring hook over the grid and then slide the screwdriver out from under the hook. But I had to unbolt the rear rail part from the seat in order to be able to swing the screwdriver around during levering.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

I use the other end of that same tool along with some extension hooks made from stainless rod. It allows me precise control releasing and connecting the springs. Been quite some time since I've done it, though, and had heard the grids were NLA from Volvo. Dave Samuels created a replacement product.




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Art Benstein near Baltimore

What engineers say and what they mean by it:
"The delivery is scheduled for the last quarter of next year."
This leaves us plenty of time to decide who to blame for it being late.