posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Sat Jan 11 23:27 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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There should be some "thermal conductive paste" on the ignition amplifier/power stage between it and the fender. If it's original, it's probably dried and now, instead of improving heat transfer between two imperfect pieces of metal, it's an insulator.
You can remove it with any solvent (rubbing alcohol preferred) and then replace it with some from radioshack. Don't get their cheap stuff though, that only lasts a couple years. Opt for the arguably longer-lasting arctic-silver stuff. I have had better luck (on computers) with the silver than the ceramique.
I hope you figure it out!
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Power stage (ignition amplifier). Been there, done that, same symptoms.
Good luck!
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Thu Jan 16 21:43 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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Hi Herb Goltz,
I am liking ignition amplifier also but does the backfire fit that diagnosis?
Kris
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posted by
someone claiming to be Herb Goltz
on
Thu Jan 16 22:07 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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My '92 245 ran terribly when the car was really warm when I had a similar problem (rush hour Toronto traffic in this particular case). I barely made it home-- it was surging, backfiring a bit and stalling. As soon as I got home I swapped the ignition amplifier in from the '92 945T I had at the time, and that fixed things.
After a few incidents like that I replaced the crank position sensor, the fuel system relay and the ignition amplifier on both cars (and the radio suppression relay on the 945T). Cheaper than a single tow around here and good for peace of mind!
Good luck!
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Thu Jan 16 23:01 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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OK, anyone got good used one?
Kris
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I gave away my stash of spares when I sold my last RWD. I got mine at pick-and-pulls-- SAABs of the same vintage had the same part (and idle air valves).
Good luck!
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You can email me or leave your email address below.
Dan
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Fri Jan 17 15:49 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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kris4769@gmail.com
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A cycle of dying, restarting later, running fine for a while, dying... has been fuel starvation for me. A clogged fuel filter; a failing main pump (hot to the touch); and 1-2 times a combo of both.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Sun Jan 12 14:27 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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so this morning I start it up and let it run for an hour hoping to duplicate the condition but it ran perfect the whole time , the CPS has a white band on it although I never changed it out since I got the car about 8 years ago.
Puzzled,
Kris
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Sounds like someing heated up and failed then cooled down 5 hours later. MAYBE the Ignition Amplifier on the Drivers inner fender. Maybe the connection to the Fender is not tight and it overheated? The 25 Amp fuse with a lousy connection can get real hot and cause resistance (low voltage to teh fuel pump)
Other than that, I liked the CPS theory untuil you said it was changed out already.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Tony, I've had two experiences with Bougicord (Electricfil) CPS developing intermittent open. I will no longer make the mistake of assuming a new one is a good one. Proved it with a very elaborate procedure costing many times the price of a new part. I still like the CPS for this.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once.
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Art this will really make you chuckle....but,
This is exactly what my car was doing when the shielding broke down on my CPS (the first time). Let it cool down and poof works great until it heated up again.
Trevin
--
89 244
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In my mind I was thinking his daughter drove it for Hours... It was his "5 hours of cool down" that had me thinking it. Jumbled facts
Good to hear from you . Hope all is well
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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You should check the insulation on the CPS white band or not, if it is cracked replace it.
Dan
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Water in the gas? Maybe you'd recently fuelled up at a small station who's tanks were low and maybe with poor separators/filters?
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Sun Jan 12 15:19 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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Water in the gas is possible and could account for it starting and running after sitting for a few hours....?
Kris
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So, did you find out what was wrong?
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posted by
someone claiming to be kris carlson
on
Sun Jan 12 22:31 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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It is like the Ever-ready bunny...it just keeps running. So until it dies on me and I am not driving it tomorrow as I do need to get to work, I just don't know. On the week-end when I can have some time to let it break down on the high way I will report my findings. Thanks to all of you who "chimed in".
Kris
Whidbey Island WA
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Need to interrogate the daughter! (:).
Does she drive it a lot or was this a temporary loan out?
Find out if it hiccuped before it died or just flat turned off.
Has it been hard to start at any time before this?
Did she just put some gas in like the other poster said?
This is like the Dragnet series! It's likely every gremlin to leave clues. It's your job to get-'em, where you can find them and then book-'em!
We are just the another department you can use for a source of reinforcement. (:)
Tools and greasy hands are a badge of honor in this neck of the woods! (:-)-*
Phil
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Unlikely culprit would be the 25 amp fuse in the heavy gauge wire leading from the positive post to the fuel injection relay under the glove box. It is on the inside of the driver's fender.
I doubt the symptoms fit but it is easy to pull and clean and eliminates another possibility.
Randy
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I like your CPS idea, sounds like ignition. I don't believe fuel pump issues, (fuse, relay) would manifest as a backfire.
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First thing, I would be suspicious of all the fuses in the drivers door pillar being corroded.
The next would be the Crank Position Sensor, if its never been replaced. They say on the board if it has a yellow band on the cable get rid of it. If it shows cracks and deterioration it best to change it too.
Ignition condition is my favorite! The distributor cap and a rotor button burn out is why I carry a spare in my spare tire cover pouch along with a headlight bulb. I am scared they run about neck and neck to whom might quit sometimes.
Then another known goody is the system relay under and behind the glove box. Its white in color . It control the fuel pumps most of all. I keep a spare in the tire pouch too.
A lot of us reflow solder over the traces on the circuit board to make them better as it's usually a cracked solder joint.
If you know more details on how it quit or how it did not restart it might help narrow things down bit.
Others will chime in with ideas that are their favorites.
Phil
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I also like the CPS for this.
When it fails to start or kicks back after highway driving, and it ain't raining, I doubt it is the distributor cap or rotor button.
Being suspicious of the fuses in the driver's door pillar is a waste of time for this symptom, as the 89 can be driven across town without one single fuse in the panel, providing you don't get a ticket for no brake lights.
Before checking out the 25A fuse, red lead, and fuel injection relay, get the codes from the OBD - both 2 and 6. Then give the CPS cable a shake or two and see if that allows you to start the car after.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something -Plato
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Hi Art,
I would have never guessed you could do without any fuses in the car. I would never tried that.
How did you ever figure that one out? You are amazing with the things you know.
I gave him what I thought would be a list of likely things to look for, that I think, would be in the category of maintenance not being done to cause the intermittent problem.
No fuses...man that tops out my brain of what you can get away with on this car!
Phil
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Hi Phil,
If you have a 91-93, that is probably not true. There are exceptions in 93 cars.
Yes, that's a fun piece of 240 trivia. I think I originally wrote the trip across town would need to be made on a sunny day too, as you'd not want to drive fuseless in the dark or rain (no running lights; no wipers).
The only interior fuse involved with motivation is #4, which provides heat to the oxygen sensor and power to the tank pump. Most of us have already found out how long we can drive without those two items.
These cars are reliable for reasons no engineer would have predicted.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
I had no Monet to buy Degas to make the Van Gogh.
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Thanks for helping me out on that triva.
My wife liked your foot note at the bottom too!
Phil
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