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Spray painting

After 29 years of rubbing off oxidized paint, the primer is finally showing through. It's time for some new paint and I'd like to try the spray-can method. I've ordered some acrylic enamel paint from ipd in the original paint code (201, beige).

Now what?

Spray a new coat of primer on what's left of the existing paint, or rub it completely off first?

Spray on several coats of the new paint and leave it like that? How heavy per layer - complete gloss for each layer or only the final layer?

What about clear-coating? The car did have a factory repaint of the driver's side some 15 years ago and the clear coat is peeling off, revealing a very dull coat of paint beneath the shiny clear. Should I just spray a few dull layers followed with a quality clear?

I know that a professional would do a better job than me, but I don't have the money for that. I want it to look decent from a distance, not showroom quality.

Thanks.








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    Spray painting

    I am not a painter, but here is my experience with a Fire Red '96 855R

    Just about half of the car had been repainted.

    The front fenders, hood, front bumper right rear quarter, and the top strip of the tailgate were done with clear coat.

    The rest of the car had the original paint.

    The original parts would fade over time, the clear coat parts would not.

    When I waxed the car. I would get red off the original paint on the rags. None from the clear coat.

    When I polished and waxed the car, you could not see any differences in the paint - I traded the car in and the new owner who called me on the phone is impressed with the car's condition.

    The small strip over the tailgate had peeled and it was dull.

    Unless perfectly applied, most paint jobs are color sanded and polished to a gloss. Using clear coat avoids extra labor, but the clear coat must be compatible with the color coat and applied at the right time.

    Enamels dry from the outside in and are soft for some time - they can be applied glossy and do not polish up well unless you wait quite some time for them to harden.

    Applying dull coats will get you a bumpy mess - the color coats under a clear coat looked smooth and glossy just after they were applied - they got dull as they dried.

    I suggest that the best you can do with spray cans is to lightly wet scuff the areas you want to paint on the worn paint with fine paper and clean real well (get some enamel reducer or other solvent from a paint shop or auto store for the final clean-up) and then try to put a nice glossy paint job on, following the directions from the cans.

    For the clear coat area, some careful sanding and a coat of clear might do the job - keep in mind that some of the damage to the clear coat creeps under the coat and you probably need to sand some more than the area that has peeled - be careful, the color coat sands away FAST.

    The parts that have peeled have a sharp edge that will show, you need to feather the edges - when you wet sand clear coat, the water does not show any color - color in the sanding water means you are taking the color coat off!







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