yes, it was the main fuel pump relay. I have 2 of them and both had the same failed/cracked solder joints. I resoldered both and have been good to go since. You should pull the relay and check it, it's easy and free.

OK, another no start, but was ready this time, pulled RSR and checked voltage, got 12 volts about 25X.

So, to my tired brain, this say the fuel pump relay is good (though I guess it can still be intermittant)and the RSR is bad. I jumped the red and red/green wires per Bruce and she lit right up.

What is the best way to permanently jump this thing without messing stuff up. Get some of the round connectors, or just bite the bullet and get a new RSR relay.

Mike

OK, I'm back after a few hours of messing around with this thing.

Bruce, great tip on the ground, I didn't even know it was there. Although 2 out of 3 wires weren't too bad, the 3rd was pretty ugly. I cleaned, wire brushed and sanded everything, also got the ground on the rail across from the exhaust manifold that comes from the battery. Cleaned tightened anything else I saw ground related.

Verified fuel pressure is good, so not the pump, definitely electric and not the coil/amp. Starts great now, but we'll see how she does.

Will check voltage coming to RSR to make sure main relay is good, should this happen again. But, I'm thinking for 30 beans I throw a new main relay in as that is the only thing even remotely old in the set up as daughter mostly drives this machine. She can't drive stick so can't drive my turbo Golf (probably good).

Thanks for all the great tips

One final thought for the moment might be the idle air valve/control unit. The thing that makes me say no is once the car just died while cruising along at 35 mph. Idle valve should not matter then, but if it was stuck (and I cleaned it some months back), it might prevent a restart? Still having thoughts about a crusher,which would be a shame as the car is in really nice shape.....

Yeah, this one has me stumped. One thing I noticed is that most times it will actually start, but then instantly die, occasionally sputters until it dies. When cranking I have spart (timing light flashes), so thinking fuel

Gotta run out this AM, but will check fuel pressure this afternoon. The word "crusher" has started to roll around my head. I will check to see if there is a code in there later today. Here is brief rundown of where I am parts wise:

hot air tube from exhaust disconneted - so no issue there.
MAP sensor - replaced as preventative maintenance, but old one was good - Echlin (Napa) brand for Chevy Celebrity, previous Napa one worked well
fuel pump - put in new one 9 mos back from FCP, pump seemed to be decent quality, but who knows, getting suspicious here. I installed new pump on sender, soldered wires up, wrapped in heat shrink. Some issue here?
CPS - new
Main relay/radiio suppression - swapped main relay, same issue, radio sup relay 9 months old, but swapped the old good one in, same thing
cap/rotor/plugs - 20k miles on 'em
fuel filter - 30k miles - pressure test should verify if this is an issue, unlikely with today's fuel. My van doesn't even have a separate filter.

Again, the word crusher is rolling around my brain, daughter panicking as other car sprung leak in radiator....

Thanks for reading this drivel....

OK, I'm back, after reporting the new OEM crank sensor fixed my shutting off problem, the issue has returned after a week and a half. Daughters drove it all last week and this week, ran great, today would not restart after a 10 minute shut down. Regina car to refresh.

What have I done:

Main (fuel injection) relay is good, put my old one back in same symptoms, both are old though, will get new one.

Radio suppression relay less than 1 year old, german brand (can't recall name) seems good, swapped with spare no difference.

CPS as mentioned brand frickin' new, OEM.

During no start, seem to have spartk, so this leaves fuel, but pump was replaced 9 - 10 months back. Thinking I'll check pressure over the weekend, any other thoughts?

Mike

A symptom like this. Cutting off after 15 minutes is a crank sensor

"fuel injecton relay seemed OK", or rather the fuel pump relay. As OU2 mentioned below, look at the FPR. The symptoms vary meaning wait 5 min to overnight to restart. One failure: after sitting and trying for a day and overnight no restart until the car was pushed .20 miles, slightly up hill to my house. A new replacement failed shortly after. Try resoldering but keep a new spare one in the car that you have preemptively resoldered.

Tom

OK, I'm back, wiggled the cranks sensor all round and couldn't duplicate it, fuel injecton relay seemed OK, so I just order a CPS from my dealer. I forgot that when I did the valve job, I replaced the 10 year old one with my "emergency" spare. It was an aftermarket piece of junk. Although it was new in the plastic in my trunk for a few years, it worked for 8 months on the car. The new OEM unit and the car seem to be functioning well, daughter just walked in from important run to the mall and said it worked great. Thanks for the tips. Mike

Thanks for all the input. I'll report back, but won't be for a few days or until the weekend as I'm stuck at work on an issue.

Try the free stuff first....

Disassemble the the coil/power stage assembly (couple of torx screws holding it together) and clean all mating surfaces and especially clean the internal contacts where the little pins slide into the springy contacts. I've even tweaked the springy contacts with a small screwdriver a tiny bit to make them contact a bit tighter. Also clean any mating surfaces that might carry a ground path to the chassis, as there seems to be coflicting opinions as to how the assembly is actually grounded. A very light film of dielectric grease on all mating surfaces may inhibit future oxydation. This is a known issue with aging Regina coils.

If that doesn't help, turn your attention to the crank position sensor. Hot restart problem are indicative of a failing sensor. But if that's the case you "should" get some sort of crank position sensor (or sometimes called RPM sensor) fault code recorded in the OBD.

i just posted this at the 200's.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1573248/220/240/260/280/problem_solved_may_help_others_find.html

i suggest you let the engine run and then wiggle the cable trying to break continuity and see if you can. if you do thats your problem

In an LH2.4 car the fuel pump relay (system relay, fuel injection relay) having an intermitent complete shutdown while driving is a prime symptom of cracked solder joints. The occasionaly hot no restart...maybe. Never having owned a Regina car, can't say if the same is true.

In addition your car could have the melty relay socket from poor tension of the female spade connectors...but cannot remember if that malady continued in the 9-series.

A bad ignition switch, as oppose to the tumbler assembly, could cause the no start or the stall but there are usually other indicators.