Pedal box, clutch pedal, clutch cable.

Flywheel, pilot bearing (use a new one), pilot bearing retainer clip, clutch disc (use a new one), pressure plate. Flywheel positioning is important to the CPS and ignition ECU. With the motor at TDC#1 the 'missing' two holes in the 58-2 pattern must be in the starter hole area of the block.

Transmission, throwout bearing (use a new one), transmission (heh), shifter linkage, shifter boot, reverse light wiring (from trans to right side of center console).

Crossmember is OK as is, you'll just be mounting it in a different position.

Front section of driveshaft at a minimum, probably not a bad idea to take the whole ting and install it as a unit. Otherwise pay careful attention to how the front and rear sections are splined together - the orientation is important and can lead to vibrations if done wrong.

I did this in about a day and a half on my car. A half day of 'clean' work inside the car - mostly installing the pedal and removing the shifter lock (might not be on your car) and starter switch stuff. A big shortcut I used was to trim off only the missing left most section of the new pedal box and bolt that into the car next to the existing automatic pedal box. I noticed that it already had all the proper holes, and the left most section bolted in securely enough and didn't really need to be part of the other side. Then I had to drill a hole in the firewall. There's a bump pressed into the removable section of firewall (removable to allow for RHD cars). There isn't good clearance on either side for a drill. Some people take more apart inside to get at it from there, I managed to do it on the engine bay side, working around the brake booster. I drilled a small pilot hole, then used a cone bit to enlarge it bit by bit until the cable housing end fit through properly.

I didn't change the rear axle gearing, it's not really particularly an integral part of the swap. I'd suggest just keeping the rear end as is, drive it around for a little bit, if you find the gearing a bit too low, then you can swap it as an entirely separate project. The drivability will be scarcely affected until then though, just somewhat higher revs in 5th on the highway. The shorter gearing on 1 through 4 will probably make it feel a bit peppy, although 1 may feel a little short.

I think it was only the early M47's that needed to be overfilled. I'm not sure if the US ever really got the early version or not. The side of the case has two cast in bosses for fill plugs. AFAIK the lower one was drilled and fitted with a plug on the 'bad' ones, and the higher one is drilled and fitted with a plug on the 'good' ones. unless you have a case with the lower fitting in use, you shouldn't need to overfill it.

My sap lasted about 6 months, then I blew up 3rd gear with a bit too much turbo powAh! Now it has a stronger Mustang V8 T5 transmission.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)