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I make puns, sorry.
94 940T, 135K. Yes you read that right, I just found a nice one. Now I have 5. Need one? :-) Two or three are for sale.
At idle it oscillates. I found 2 cracked vac lines, another poorly fitting, and a 4th disconnected. Fixed them all, virtually no change. Swapped IAC, no change.
Indicated idle is about 600, lower than all my other cars. And it varies over a one to 1.5 second range, which is felt and seen, with a vibration felt in the seat and seen in steering wheel shake as it comes and goes. The tach needle barely moves, but it does seem to move slightly.
Thoughts?
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Hi
Exactly same problems to my newly acquired 2.0t 960.
Mine's got some errors on TCM
AC compressor were not plug-in and the blocking relay was faulty. Problem solved.
Still, the problem with the idle remains and that causes limp mode for turbo.
--
Volvo 440, 1.9td, 1996
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What OBD codes are you getting?
Dan
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I feel embarrassed about the post topic but I find wordplay entertaining :-)
so here's what it refers to;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idylls_of_the_King
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Dear jerryc,
Hope you're well. Check the black air intake hose. If there's a crack in that hose, unmetered air enters the engine, for which the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) may not be able to compensate.
Also, check the connector to the IACV. It may be corroded/dirty, and so producing inconsistent signal.
As to the non-functioning climate control unit, I'd guess that the vacuum hose, that goes to the unit, is broken or disconnected, because you cannot change the airflow, no matter how you move the control knob. It is also possible that someone working inside the dash disconnected the vacuum line connector from the control unit. If so, that vacuum leak might be enough to affect engine operation.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Thanks Jay
it's a turbo so no black hose but I've checked all the intake hoses.
IAC connector looks good, haven't checked voltage.
That the vents could be affected/ are affecting the idle, that's a good idea.
The line that was disconnected is above, behind and to the left/driver's side of the head, and has a small round thingie about the size of two soda caps put together. Then a line connects to the other side of that, and it goes I think, into the cabin. I had thought this might be both problems solved at once, but nothing resulted. Do you know what this line is?
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So this 'thingie, is about the dia of a half dollar, is black and white, is right behind the dipstick, and the lower line goes down to an elbow attached to the firewall. It appears this is vac to the cabin/vents, but I haven't had time to look inside up under the steering wheel to see what's what.
Confirm?
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Dear jerryc,
Hope you're well. The part, to which you referred, indeed is a check valve (#9135666). It costs about $20 (MSRP).
If it has failed, that might explain the absence of vacuum to the climate control unit (CCU). Without vacuum, the CCU will not work.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Dear jerryc,
Hope you're well. The black-and-white part is, I'd guess, a vacuum check valve. As you note, it is between the intake manifold and the firewall pass-through. I'd guess the vacuum line goes to the climate control unit (CCU).
If this check valve has failed in the "closed" position, there will be no vacuum supplied to the CCU.
Question: test this hypothesis. Remove the "check valve" and put in a splice in the vacuum hose, so that vacuum is supplied directly to the CCU. If a direct connection to the intake manifold restores function to the CCU, then the black-and=white part is some sort of valve, which has failed. If removing the black-and-white part makes no difference, then it is back to "Square One".
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Can't edit.
Tach does move a tiny bit.
Changed plugs which it needed, no difference.
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