Hi all,

I believe it's my turn to change the core heater. In the morning, I smell slight hint of coolant when I turn the fan on, maybe for 1-3 seconds and it goes away. It's much stronger smell by the driver side dash vent than any other vents. There is no visual leak on my carpet and I am not losing any coolant.

I was going to do it next year but may be I should just do it when it's nice out.

I have a question regarding the heater core, can I modify the housing so that it's much easier to access next time? See attached picture, the red line shows cut line. I am hoping to pull the motor out and be able to take out the heater core from the passenger side. Thank you as always.

One more, how hard is this job?

Hi all,

I just want to let you guys know that I was able to do this with all your help. Thank you once again!!! Also, I don't think I could have done this without Art's cleanflametrap. I know it's really hard to document while you are working on something. Thank you Art.




Now, I can understand why you guys love 240 so much... This job made me feel like my life wasn't too tangled up. :D





Hi Scorron, I decided to cut from the side instead from the top. I am hoping that I don't need to remove my dashboard next time around... Just pull it from the passenger side by removing fewer components. Try to do clean job, bought a HFT rotary tool, speed setting on 5 with sharp cutting spear blade. Your write up gave me so much strength to dig in. Thank you Scorron!!!




Hold together by vinyl double sided tape.

--

Thank you my brickboard members!!!

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Looks good, SB. Several months after cutting my airbox, I have noticed not the slightest problem in airflow, heat, or cooling. I think anybody who has the hard lines of the late model 240 evaporators, and does not have a machine to recover the refrigerant, would do best to cut the box. It turns a very very intimidating project into something more manageable, and shorter.

If your A/C is non-functional, you can run your heater hoses to the evaporator (using it as a heater core). I did this several years ago on my '83 240 and have not had any problems.

-Phil

That is a great idea. I will have to tell my die-hards about that one. I have a 1983 in the shop from Maine and the rust is horrible. She can't part with it so major surgery is beginning this fall. I will have to learn how to post some pictures.

Hi Paulii


FYI. You can send me your pictures/I can upload or you can try this. Good luck.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1565159/220/240/260/280/upload_photos.html



I would like to have your contact information. Please send me your shop info when you can. Thank you.


87245swedishbaklava aT Gee maIL dotc om

I just did this about a month ago and have been meaning to make a LONG post detailing my notes; this will have to suffice for now. On your '87, I believe you have flexible hoses to the evaporator, and I am sure you will be able to follow Art's pictorial instructions successfully.

On my '93, with the hard lines, I was very concerned about cracking a line. I fought with my AC for months last year due to just a teeny tiny stress fracture in the aluminum fitting on the low-pressure hose; I did NOT want to go through any of that again. Even after loosening all the lines under hood, I was not comfortable with the amount of play I had, so I opted to go the "chainsaw" route of heater core replacement. Here is a post on Turbobricks which inspired me: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=128416

User "Cavin" has several photos. I did the exact same thing with my own heater core, but instead of gluing the pieces back on, I used a plastic welder with great success.

Unless my AC is already discharged or non-functional, I will never try to remove a heater box again in order to get to the heater core. I was able to weld the pieces back together, with the few small places I could not reach filled with silicone. In your case, you might try to remove the whole heater box, but I think by chopping the top of the heater box off, I could have done the job in one day. It certainly requires much less disassembly.

I also strongly recommend going to Home Depot and picking up a roll of Armaflex insulation tape. It is a closed-cell insulation which is almost identical to the stuff that Volvo originally used, both in the heater box, and to tape up electrical connectors to quiet rattles. You might have to double it up to get a tight fit for the new heater core, because it is a bit thinner. I believe the air flow in my heater box is now better than ever because I was liberal in the use of foam to seal up the cracks.

As for heater core brands, I got a Vista-pro heater core at Advance Auto for less than $50, whereas FCP groton wants over $100 for a Visteon - Google searches seem to indicate that they are the same company now. I pressurized the new heater core to 15psi and dunked it in a bucket of water - no bubbles. I am confident it is as well made as any aftermarket option.

Good luck! It is a miserable job in the heat and sun. Not even cool concrete against your back, or the shade of the hood to keep you cool.

Hi Sean,

Thank you and nice write up! You made my week!!!

"I am sure you will be able to follow Art's pictorial instructions successfully. "

I have been reading his pages time to time for past two years... I no longer need to take an advil before and after. It's still daunting to look at all those wires.

I think I will chop off the top as you did. I am using my car as primary commuting car so I don't have much time and can't afford to be out of commission. Also, I am learning as I go and work slow. Again, Thank you!!!

Just perfect for me!!!!!

I've been putting off this job for 3 years in my 80. I just don't drive it in the winter when I need to use the heat.

From your description, there is no need to do it immediately. Just keep the heater valve closed. You will only really have a problem when winter comes and you need heat...which will result in Slimed fogged windows from the coolant "smoking" out of the vents.

You can bide your time on this job. You've got some months until it gets cold.

PS...make sure to check that it's not just a leaky heater valve. If yours is not the original Brass...and replaced by the PO, it may be just the valve.

My core leaks primarily on the passenger side...that's where the "smoke" really pours our to the vents when I turn on the heat. If you don't get the "smoke" with the heat on full, then it may not be the core. The hot core vaporizes the leaked coolant its surface.

Also I have coolant leaking out so I can see drops of it under the car in the garage park space.

Hi CB,


I drive at least 100 miles a day during the week. I know it's very early stage but I don't want to take a chance after doing all other work.

You know... I never thought that my Volvo would make it this far. For awhile, my family and friends never asked me how I was doing. Instead they asked me...

"Is you car ok?
"Car still running?
"Everything ok, your car?


Happy Fourth of the July!

"I've been putting off this job for 3 years in my 80. I just don't drive it in the winter when I need to use the heat."

That really hurts my heart. My '79 wagon is still the best all around winter car I have ever owned. The heater could strip paint. The complete lack of power and skinny tires made it great on snow and as good as any vehicle could be on ice.

If any car was meant to own the winter...

Since I've got an 87 wagon too that's what I drive in the winter...imho the wagon is better in the snow...50lbs of sand over the rear....

plus it keeps the salt off the classic

It takes 7 hours to do it right, why hack it all up? I don't get it just for a short cut and a sh--y job. No Thanks. I'm sure none of my customers would appreciate a hack job. I use the grey foam that is used in A/c ducting, available in rolls at any hardware store.

Hi Paulii


I appreciate sharing your view and your work ethic. Where is your shop located? My mechanic is good however he's not in love with RWD Volvo like us.

I know it sounds naive to say "I just want a hamburger but I don't want to watch a cow getting butchered."

But I am good to my Volvo in my own way. I hope...


Happy 4th of the July.

I am in Deltaville, VA. This is my 32 year working on Volvos. Happy 4th to you as well.

I suppose someone could really hack it up, but take the time to read Scorron's post on this anyway. The traditional meaning of the word "hack" has no place in describing his workmanship.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"If only Sweden awarded a Nobel Prize for recycling its cars." - General Colin L. Powell

Thanks, Art. As you well know, I prefer to do things the "right" way, but without access to a refrigerant recovery system, I think chopping the top is the best method for the home mechanic (at least on the late model 240 with the aluminum lines to the evaporator).

I wish I had had your confidence in those hard lines, but the balanced heat and full, strong airflow from the vents tells me that my airbox works just as well as one unmolested.

I think the final decision to cut the box was when I realized that the youngest of these cars is 20 years old! There will come a time for some of us when these cars no longer have even the dismal aftermarket support they have now, and we will be forced to be inventive to keep 'em driving. In that light, a minor hack that nobody can see and that does not affect function seems to matter not at all.

It takes 7 hours to do it right

So you just blow all the refrigerant off into the atmosphere?

I am sure you did a great job since you took the extra time to do it the right way and seal everything, but I have repaired so many butcher jobs that its not even funny. I did not see any pictures, but I also have done many and have only had a problem with the a/c hard line once and it required some soldering of the aluminium. I did not want to hurt your feelings, but once you are down to that point anyway in the job to take out the whole box and separate it to access the heater core is probably quicker, but I will let you do it any way you want. Pauli

Hi Paulii

My apology for using the word "chop it off" I will slice with the cap with care. :-)

I happen to have a recovery machine, but you can have a shop take it out before you do the job.