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Hi all,
So, no brake lights all of a sudden. I've verified that the brake light switch is good (lights a test light when the pedal is depressed). I pulled the bulb failure sensor and re-soldered at all the pins (looks like someone had done this previously).
Still no brake lights. Since I can't easily get to the wires coming into the sensor, can I just solder jumpers at the base of the pins? I think, per Art Bernstein, I need to jumper S, 54, 54L and 54R.
Or is there a better method? I really hate to spend the $$$ for a new sensor.
Thanks,
Monty
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Past: '79 245, '91 240, '88 245. Current: '90 245, '83 245, '95 940
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That's what I did on my 200. I left it that way for months..
Then I opened the sensor up and resoldered it and went back to it working properly
A small wire across those three connections, they are next to each other.. one wire spanning the three connections... EZ-PZ
http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/volvo_brake_lights_v0.htm
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Tony,
In Art Bernstein's write-up, I think he recommended jumping 54, 54L and 54R (which are right next to each other), but also jumping S. I guess you found this unnecessary?
Thanks,
Doug
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Past: '79 245, '91 240, '88 245. Current: '90 245, '83 245, '95 940
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I jumped mine Without jumping the "S" it worked fine.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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I'm not sure I'd want to take credit for that suggestion. Maybe you can quote the source? My position is you need that little device and it is worth fixing or replacing, but I do understand even folks with cars 6 years newer than our newest might have a tight budget.
Hint: If you're doing a search, leave the "r" out of benstein. Yeah, I know the search engines will want to put it back in.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
The male is a domestic animal which, if treated with firmness and kindness, can be trained to do most things. - Jilly Cooper
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Art,
First, sorry about butchering your name. My bad.
It was in this thread where you spoke of jumping S, 54, 54L and 54R. Now, you were talking about splicing wires and not putting jumpers in the sensor.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1486468&show_all=1
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Past: '79 245, '91 240, '88 245. Current: '90 245, '83 245, '95 940
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Hi Monty,
You are forgiven. (laugh) Once I heard my dad say "right pew wrong church."
Thanks for digging up the source. It was one of those times like now where I poke my nose into 7/9 stuff when I think the similarities exist.
Like the IPD automatic overdrive solenoid plate is to the DIY bypass with the Dremel, I think someone could remove the guts of those sensors and just solder jumper wires to the backside and sell them. Seems like there are just as many folk who could care less about the bulb failure warning as don't need the overdrive lockout button. I understand.
Basic flaw to my post is doing that jumper scheme will indeed fix the brake lights, but because of the way the high-mounted (third) brake light is sensed, the warning light will be on when the brakes are engaged. So to fix the brake lights, you lose the tail light and headlight monitoring when the bulb becomes annoying enough to pull it.
One thing I do know for sure is you can manage to kill the better part of an afternoon getting one of those bulb warning sensors to play nice.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"I'll re-use a styrofoam coffee cup until it starts to develop soft spots in the sides."
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Actually, FCP Groton now has the sensor for $49.95. Maybe I'm best just to replace it. Even with re-soldering, the solder joints look pretty beat. My other lights are quite dim, so this might help?
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Past: '79 245, '91 240, '88 245. Current: '90 245, '83 245, '95 940
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Bypassing the bulb failure sensor, even with a new knockoff, unless an actual Hella design, yields much brighter lighting.
The coils around the reed switches cause a good resistance amount.
It takes nothing to walk around and verify good lighting.
Of course, moving to LED for all lighting would negate the reed sensor load in the bulb out sensor, and the bulb out sensor may not like LED bulbs unless you use pre-made with simulated load, or a lesser load using resistors.
At any rate, try this article here:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1564966/740/760/780/bulb_failure_indicator.html
With reference to a turbobricks thread (requires account to access, I believe). Art provides wire-ups with the systems before and after the third eye brake light.
If you trailer with your Volvo, the bulb out sensor is even more at risk of failure. As was with the case with my 1992 240 GL.
Hope that helps!
Dud.
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WA state dairy RULES
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