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I need to replace the inner tie rod ends on the 945T. In the FAQ and other places I see warnings to keep part of the rack from turning when unscrewing the inner tie rod. What is the best method to do this, and where do you hold the rack itself?
I spent enough time underneath to confirm that I had ZF tie rods but didn't see exactly where to counterhold the rack.
Brian Mee
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Here's how I did it on a particularly tight one recently, making use of tools on hand:
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
When you've seen one shopping center you've seen a mall.
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Nice work Art.
“Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world.” (Archimedes)
steve
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In short, the crecent is on the flats that are built into the rack and the vice grips are on the tierod end? The conbination wrench is for counter pressure so that realistically neither of the wrenchs can move their repective components until the one that is supposed to spin, does.
I have always donce it with two pipe wrenchs, the one on the rack having duck tape on the jaws.
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I've never done inners, only outers or whole racks, but may need to shortly. I had no idea that once extended, the rack had flats on it for this purpose. I had wondered how to counteract the undoing of the inner tie rod. Is this a feature of all racks? Or at least Volvo racks, do you know?
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Dear jerryc,
Hope you're well. To avoid risk of creating a sharp-edged gouge in the rack gear - which could damage a seal and cause a leak - it seems reasonable to have flats on the rack gear, beyond the rack body housing.
A road hazard - created by poor workmanship - damaged the front end on my 940. The road construction company's insurance covered the repair, which encompassed the tie rods, hubs, wheels, ball joints, strut housings, struts, bearings, etc.
A severe impact can bend a tie rod. Absent such an impact, tie rods should last for the life of the vehicle. The tie rod ends may need replacement.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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From what I understand most racks have a toothed top/side/bottom/whatever. The rest of it can take about any shape. On the Saturn it is and I-beam-looking thing with teeth on the top of the "I".
I honestly do not remember if the Volvo racks all have flats or not...or if the two I have done had flats. I just go under the car with the pipe wrench and go to town.
A lot of folks have talked about the peened-over section on their inners where I have only seen the slotted washer with the sides folded over.
Some one with more experience (and a better memory) will chime in for sure but it is not that much effor to jack the car up an lossen a boot to look.
Out of curiousity, why do you sustem the inners of being bad?
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Am reviewing this as rack repair is on for tomorrow.
I'm replacing because the torn boot reveals that there is substantial visible movement of the ball in the socket; 1/8" on one side.
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Thanks for all the info. In response to the questions, the car failed it's Virgina safety inspection for worn front tires (inner edge) and worn or loose inner tie rod ends. After only 253.000 miles.
Brian Mee
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In that case, I think you'll find the car is much more pleasant to drive with the play of the worn inner joint on the tie rod removed from the equation.
My cars must have all lived beyond their lifetime, as I think I've replaced every original tie rod. Once you get the old one out and compare the joint tightness to the new one, you'll shake your head and wonder how it got that bad and did not destroy itself. Of course a rip in the boot will accelerate the process.
By the way, amazing to me, I have never needed (yet) to replace one I've replaced, so I cannot comment negatively on the longevity of the aftermarket cheapos I've been using.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"It could be said that burning wood for home heating is choosing 'a way of life,' rather than just choosing a fuel."
-John Siegenthaler
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Art, as I'm 450 miles away from 300,000 are you saying that I should think about a preemptive strike on the inner tie rods? I'm planning on ball joints, upper mounts, sway bar bushings and outer tie rods before summer is out so it would be a good time to do it. However I do enjoy letting sleeping dogs lie.
My 940 is running better than ever and looking forward to tightening up the front end. I want to truly appreciate the Michelin Defenders I just installed.
-M
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'90 245 291k, '93 945 299k
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I would say if there is no play in the inner tie rods leave it be. At 300K miles the seals are not going to last much longer, if they leak you will need a new/rebuilt rack that will include inner tie rods.
Dan
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yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'll inspect them for play when I do the front end work.
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'90 245 291k, '93 945 299k
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Or just replace the rack while you are in the mood to work.
Dan
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No Comment
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'90 245 291k, '93 945 299k
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I am also a believer in not waking sleeping dogs. They deserve their rest.
But, when ever you have the wheels up for brakes or tire swaps, do the shake test for bearings, ball joints, and steering linkage. Check the boots for tears or deterioration. Look at the grease boots on the ball joints and outer tie rod ends. Look for abnormal tire wear.
The tough part is when you find the play in the steering, you would really benefit from a helper to wiggle the wheel for you while you use your hands to feel for where the play is. It is a three-handed sort of job.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
No trees were harmed in the posting of this message...however an extraordinarily large number of electrons were horribly inconvenienced.
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One more question. When I'm removing the inner's are they both "lefty-loosy"?
Brian Mee
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Lefty loosey.
Interesting question, sir. Did you perhaps own a Chrysler product in the sixties?
No, I'm hard-pressed to think of any thread in the 940 that's left-hand. Can anyone supply an example? I'm drawing a blank.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
The 50C5 was introduced in 1948, to address concerns that the set might pose more of a shock hazard to the user if the 35W4 and 50B5 were to be accidentally interchanged. The 50C5 is a 50B5 with a different pin-out.
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Didn't own any then, but did learn to drive on the family 55 Dodge 3-tone pink, white, and black with Torque-flite auto transmission selector on the dash.
That had the largest diameter steering wheel in the world with the circular horn ring inside about the diameter of modern wheels.
The first quarter turn of the wheel set the body roll angle, further turning actually started the car into the turn.
I didn't get into car fixing until much later.
Brian Mee
Manassas VA
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"No, I'm hard-pressed to think of any thread in the 940 that's left-hand. Can anyone supply an example? I'm drawing a blank"
Art--just today I sold a "Florida fan" for a '91 245. His blade was broken. I took a quick look at the fan shaft to see if it made sense to just sell the blade--looked like a left hand thread on the shaft--so there you go. Sold the complete unit. -- Dave
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