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My backup lights don't work. Fuse is good, lamps are good.
Can someone confirm- should they turn on with ignition key in the KPII position and shift in reverse?
If that's true, then my next guess is the backup light switch is not working. With key in KPII and gear in reverse, I get no voltage at the lamps (flexible PC board). All other tail lights working.
Bentley says "Replacing the switch requires access to the top of the transmission, usually by lowering the rear of the transmission slightly."
I don't have the tools to do that. Is there an alternative method of getting access to the backup switch?
Also, in the case that switch needs replacing, can it be replaced with any switch I might find in a local store, or must I order a Volvo part? I'm in a hurry- car is out of inspection (sigh).
Anyone have a photo of it? I don't know _exactly_ where it is or what it looks like (though Bentley has a drawing).
Anything else I should check, or tips?
1991 Volvo 240 Sedan.
Thanks,
Keith
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here's my suggestion.
I would assume that the small wiring harnes that goes to the shifter is bad. The insulation on that harness on my '89 was a total mess.
The harness runs from the trani up into the Shifter boot and under the Drivers side of the console. I would follow that harness to the console connector. disconnect it and then jump out the connector that in the car. Essentially bypassing the switch and then see if you have Backup Lights.
Yeah, you really can't reach up on the driveres side and get to the Switch.
Did you see if you have voltage at the harness at the raer lights?? Since only one wire runs into the Drivers side Backup light then daisey chains to the other side, maybe it's a bad connection at teh flex circuit board.
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Thank Tony- The photo you sent is really helpful (is it in the archives?)
Turns out, the backup light switch is OK.
As you and others reminded me, I finally got around to checking the PC board. I had looked at it only briefly before. That particular pin has been damaged very badly sometime in the past, and I guess I hadn't thought much about it since it somehow actually worked for the last 7 or so years I've owned this car.
So, for the next little while I will be working on a repair for the PC board. I luckily already had an extra connector that I could rob a pin from. Hopefully this will fix the problem.
Thanks to everyone once again for all your help!
http://www.strucktower.com/volvo_damaged_connector.jpg
Keith
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Power from the Transmission Switch comes into the Circuit board on pin 1, then it daisey chains out on pin 2 to the passeneger side.
You can really improve reliability by simply stripping back both those Black wires a bit and soldering a wire between them. This will directly feed power to the Passenger side without going through the Drivers side circuit board and at the same time it will now use the clean Pin 2 to bring power to the Drivers side. Win/ Win
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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That is great news! It's always better to have to fix the wiring there than replace the switch in the trans. As mentioned by all here, it's a *&@#$ job, and it's rarely the switch that fails.
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I wouldn't rule out wiring and it should be easy enough to check but if you're not blowing the fuse it is probably the switch.
The bentley illustration is correct. The switch is located on the left side of the gearbox top cover plate more toward the rear than the front and should look like this:
I say, "should look like," because the one I received from FCP recently is a much newer version with different pins that are actually shielded from the elements and comes with a wiring connector that would need to be spliced to the existing wiring. It actually looks very desirable but I am not sure if the switch on the newer version protrudes out far enough to make contact with gear selector. I would encourage you to get one as pictured above, if at all possible.
Anyway, this is very do-able with a simple little bottle jack and 22mm deep socket. 7/8" will fit, albeit a little loose. But it must be a deep socket.
As previously stated by others, it cannot be done from inside the car.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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Hmm...
I just talked to my garage, who isn't that familar with Volvo's, and he is telling me the "book" says he can access and replace the backup light switch from inside the car via the gear shift area.
Anyone know if that's actually possible?
My other alternative is to rig up an aux switch on the dashboard, which would be doable.
Keith
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon Jun 3 16:58 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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just be sure it's not the wires. I've had manual trans since my first Volvo in 1983. M40, M45, M47. The only time the BU lights failed was due to wires.
1.Rubbing against the tunnel (with a little added oil soaked insulation failure)
2.broken off near the connectors
never had a switch fail.
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Your mechanic may be looking at the automatic transmission's reverse light switch.
--
1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 2001 V70 XC
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It's not possible. On paper, he may think he can do it, but trust those of us who've been under there...it isn't.
It's more annoying than labor intensive. Check the wiring first.
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having done this job twice you are in for a very rough time.
even with a lift this job requires, dropping the trans cross member, then using a rope or extra arms pulling the transmission down and to the passenger side to gain good access to the top of the box where the switch lives. unbolting it....very awkward, installing a new one then fitting new snap connectors to the two prongs.
if you are on a driveway don't even try it. you will rue the day.
imo pay someone in a garage to do it for you.
the harness is not long, maybe 24 inches with a plug which connects at the lower corner of the center heater control face plate and two wire with snap connections at the business end.
get a new one or make a new and use NEW tight snap connectors.
you do not want one of them falling off
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OK, thanks!
I'll have the garage do it.... there's some other stuff they need to do anyway. Unfortunately, that means $$$.
Keith
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It's nigh impossible to do without dropping the transmission crossmember. The tranny itself can stay in with drive-shaft hooked up and all.
I did this on my '83 stick. I believe the switch is on the driver's side, at least on am M46. I put a jack under the trans, loosened the passenger side crossmember bolts and removed the driver's side crossmember bolts. Then I let the trans drop down as far as I deemed comfortable. Put some carboard between the engine and the firewall, btw.
You should be able to reach up and get to the switch from there. Might want to remove the shifter cover inside, as there may be some access from that angle, too.
My switch wasn't bad, but the wiring was shot. That's the first thing I would check. The biodegradeable wiring connected to those horrible bullet-style connectors doesn't last long at all. You may be able to rig something up to get the lights on long enough for inspection.
If you do need a switch, it needs to be Volvo. FCP has them pretty cheap.
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