Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 4/2003 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

So recently my water pump begin to make some very serious noise and today I attempted to change it out to a new one. When putting the new one on the block, I put a thin layer of gasket sealer on the pump itself, then I put the gasket which came with the pump, and put that on the prepared and smooth surface of the block.

After I put everything back together I was surprised to see that the pump was leaking even before I started the car up. I didn't have time to fix it so I intend to do that tomorrow.

If I'm not mistaken there are four bolts which hold on the pump to the block, And one which holds the pipe to the pump and goes into the block. Does that sound right? There seems to be an extra hole in the new pump but I wasn't sure if I had lost a bolt.

I'm not sure if I can buy a gasket by itself. But when I redo the job tomorrow I would like to wind up with no leaks at all.

Thanks for all your help.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

The B21-23 engines used a pump with one more bolt hole than the B230 engines. Perhaps you've got a pump for the earlier engine?
Whatever pump has to be levered gently up against the underside of the head once the two nuts and washers are on the studs. The top of the pump body also has to be parallel with the underside of the head.
The seal on the heater tube should be placed right on the end of it, and silicone grease used on the seal and the bore in the pump. As the tube slides into the bore with the seal on it the seal will find its happy place. If you force it at all the seal will fold over and that can cause a big leak.
I mention because you said there seems to be an extra hole in the new pump.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

^The water pumps from the different engines (B21-23 and B230) will not mount to each other and will be obvious it's the wrong part.

I don't think he could've installed the wrong pump on his engine.

I'm guessing either the water pipe o-ring flipped (or is missing) or the pump wasn't lifted into position under the head prior to tightening.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990


Guys, you do realize that this is a 9 month old post?








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

Did you install the flat rubber o'ring that goes on the heater pipe itself going to the back of the water pump ? You never mentioned that !! Good luck !!








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

I'm staring at a spare water pump. there are two studs on teh engine block. One in the 11:00 position and one at 4:00 that fit onto the Oval holes in the Pump.
Then there are 4 holes in the pump for Bolts. One at teh 1:00 position and three under the Lower radiator hose nipple. One of those four is to hold the Hard, heater pipe that comes in from the back of the pump.
you should be able to place the Pump on the two Studs, lift up firmly and tighten those nuts, then proceed to put in teh additional Bolts.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

If both mating surfaces are clean and smooth no gasket sealer is required, just the paper. Don't forget to clean the donut mating surface on the underside of the head.

The method I use is:
Install the rubber donut into the pump
Hang the pump on the studs while inserting the pipe into the back of the pump.
Install two nuts on the studs that have slotted holes (finger tight)
Lever the pump upwards using *two* awls inserted into the lower round bolt holes.
When you see that the rubber donut is evenly squished, tighten the slotted hole stud nuts
Install the rest of the bolts and torque evenly

I'm sure there is an extensive writeup in the FAQ. I just did my sisters water pump a few weeks ago and just got a chance to check my work and still bone dry.

Good luck,



--
'90 245 285k, '93 945 296k








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

I use a tapered alignment punch in the lower (5th hole) as described to lever the pump up against the head while tightening the remaining 4 bolts. No sealer is required anywhere, and I have not had one leak yet. I did one once where the PO or a mechanic used blue sealant everywhere, and it was a real mess to clean off before installing a new pump. Don't use sealant. Apply a little antisieze to the bolts before reinstalling.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

"If I'm not mistaken there are four bolts which hold on the pump to the block, And one which holds the pipe to the pump and goes into the block. Does that sound right? There seems to be an extra hole in the new pump but I wasn't sure if I had lost a bolt."
Without going out to one of my 240's or digging out a spare pump to refresh my memory--I'd say you are mistaken. There should be 5 bolts (some models have two studs and three bolts) holding the pump to the block. There's one at the very bottom--center. I use that hole to pry the pump up to squish the rubber top seal and then add that bolt last. I was confused by "And one which holds the pipe to the pump and goes into the block." The bolt and nut that hold the water pipe are independent of the WP securing bolts. -- Dave








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Serious water pump leak. 200 1990

Did you lift the pump up to squish or seal the top rubber donut?

Autozone sells a Felpro gasket for about $1.50, nice quality.
Dan







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.