If I open the window when I drive or idle I get a strong exhaust smell. I got a CO alarm from the house and it goes off in the car.

Some details. '65 220. B20 motor, weber DGV, seems to have no smog stuff hooked up, put new weather stripping on the lift gate and tail gate, no exhaust leaks, idle mixture is set correctly, put a new seal in the fuel tank sending unit.

Does anyone else have a problem with this and any ideas on how to eliminate it?

the wagons are bad for this....FWIW later volvos and others have air flaps near the back that stop any low pressure from developing in the area...ie., if there is low pressure in the cabin the flaps allow air in from the sides not the back of the vehicle. I have been thinking of doing this on my 220 as even with a good seal around the rear hatch air I can smell exhaust if I open a window at highway speeds. I have learnt how to open the windows just so so that I can modulate the pressure and have no smell. The good news is that as these engines are a little smoggy you can smell the exhaust, with a modern engine you would just pass out. I don't smell exhaust at idle though, so you might want to check your pipes again, and maybe the PCV system, lines etc....
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Patrick, '68 220 , '53 GMC 4104, '97 VW Transporter.

Humm, will look into the flaps. As for the PCV system. That has all been taken out and will look at routing some of the hanging hoses to a better place.
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Digital Job and Analog Rides:1965 220, 1956 Matchless G80S, 1940 Hudson

The end 6" or so of the Wagon exhaust should angle down. It also agles out a bit. This is a pattern stainless system but custom rear sections often tuck the silencer/expansion pot tightly underneath.

The thick round washers are spreaders for the towbar support bolts if anyone is wondering.

Ah, now that is an idea. The pipe on there now just extends past the bumper and goes straight out. Will take it to a shop and have them extend it a bit and add the bends.
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Digital Job and Analog Rides:1965 220, 1956 Matchless G80S, 1940 Hudson

Found out and corrected two items.
1. The exit of the exhaust pipe was just straight back. Turned it like stock and it helped. Also seems to be a bit quieter. May have just been that it was not hung on the correct exhaust hanger.
2. Was missing one of the seals for the back lift gate. The website below lists all of the seals for the rear. Quite helpful.

http://www.skandix.de/en/installationpictures/Volvo-220/rear-view-open/2000080/
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Digital Job and Analog Rides:1965 220, 1956 Matchless G80S, 1940 Hudson

Hello,

Skandix ships out of Europe.

We sometimes have the seals in stock and if we don't, they are usually in stock in a warehouse in the USA.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

You might need to extend you tail pipe.

Does your tail pipe extend past your rear bumper?
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

My thoughts too, if your tail pipe exits before your rear tire or anywhere before the ass of the car the exhaust could easily come into the car, also check your trunk, do you have any openings in the floor ie. a rotted floor or rear quarter areas? Anything that can cause the vacuum effect in the car like an open wing window will pull air from anywhere it can outside the car especially while moving, but if your sitting still and it is windy outside the same effect can occur.

Pipe exits past the bumper. No holes in the floor that I have seen. Will look closer.