Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2013 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

flush and fill 200 1991

would like to do a flush and fill on my brick this week. I have never done this. Any tricks or don't do's! It has been many years since it was last done by a mechanic. Thanks!








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    flush and fill 200 1991

    Assuming you mean a coolant flush and fill: There's a drain plug on the engine that can be accessed from the top. It's down near the rear of the engine under the exhaust manifold. Not a fun location to get to, but it will allow the block to be drained completely. Maybe someone on the forum has a picture of the location. I'm also not absolutely sure that all red block engines have the drain plug.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      flush and fill 200 1991

      That block drain spigot is present on my 1981 240 and the 1994 940, so you should have it. 13mm open end wrench will loosen the fitting. It's brass, so go easy. Does not need much tightening to give a leakproof seal.

      To fully drain the radiator, undo the lower hose at the water pump and bend it down, after removing the splash pan under the engine. Try to catch all your old coolant in a container and dispose of it according to your local codes. The stuff is deadly poisonous to small animals and humans. Trashes their kidneys.

      You may have to refill the system with clear water, run the engine with heater set to hot, and drain again a couple of times to get a good flush. One draining won't do it as there are plenty of pockets where the old stuff has to be circulated or flushed out.

      When refilling with new coolant those pockets will now have pure water occupying them. I pour in 100% pure antifreeze, equal to 1/2 the system capacity, then top up the reservoir to the "Min" point with distilled water, definitely not tap water. That way I'm sure of getting a 50/50 solution. Run the engine until the thermostat opens (radiator gets hot) with the heater set to hot, and check for leaks. All being well, I drain about one litre from the block drain, then pour that back into the reservoir.

      I figure this gets the entire system, including the reservoir, to a 50/50 mix, and a few more run, cooldown, and start cycles will make sure.

      Look also at this section of the FAQ:
      http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#DrainingEngineCoolant
      --
      Son's XC70, daughter's 940, my 81 and 83 240's, 89 745 (V8) and S90. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

        ...and to add about the thermostat .... 200 1991

        If you're changing the thermostat, too, be sure to install it with the bubble valve* uppermost...

        [ * sometimes it's an actual ball valve,sometimes just a jiggle pin, but it lets air bubbles escape to the radiator well before the thermostat opens.]

        ..., and when you tighten down the housing, just use a minimum amount of torque on the nuts (I use just two fingers on the ratchet handle), as some on this forum have inadvertently snapped the studs, which leads to a lot of trouble. Some antiseize on the studs' threads is also a good idea, for the next time you open the housing.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.