Thought I ought to join these forums...seeing as
This is my first volvo

Number 1 I love to drive this old tank more that I would have ever thought.

Number 2 It needs some work!

Now on to business...anyone experience a water leak (from rain) which seems to be coming from inside the far left (driver side) dashboard...I have only driven this car a few hundred miles and noticed the other day when it rained when my left foot got wet..

Upon further inspection it seems to be coming down and dripping through the fuse box.............which could explain why I had to change quite a few fuses to get things going. Any idea where it could be coming from??

I did notice a little wetness at the bottom corner of the windshield but nothing like what was coming in.

Thanks for all the posts....I have many things to check out!

So basically I need to replace the glass? I cant get away with filling the hole in the bottom drivers side corner from the outside with caulk?

There is at least a 1/4 X 1/4" gap, margin, space under the black rubber trim around the perimeter where the body meets the glass. The gappage is even larger at the bottom center. I did not see a drain therefore there is always some water under the trim, especially at the bottom which I still think is odd. I'd like confirmation on lack of a drain.


If you can goober some silicone RTV in there you may stop the leak. Better yet, there is a low viscosity liquid I saw at an auto parts store sold for for sealing windshield leaks. First confirm that it is a windshield leak. If you use the liquid seal, pour it in about 6" above the corner. Getting it dry first will be a problem. The rubber trim is firmly adhered to glass and just laying tight on the body. Good luck.

Tom

Hi youaretheguyy

I would like to add one more. I have 87 245, there is an air vent that I can open and close behind the fuse box. I am not sure if yours has but if you do have it. Then make sure it's closed and the seal is nice & tight.

Your '87 still had that? Loved it in my '79 and my '90 does not have it.

Hi Onkel Udo II

Yes, I love that feature since my AC doesn't work, I just wished that I had one more on the other side.

Once time, I forgot to close it when it was raining. All the water came through, I had to pull over quickly and wipe all my fuses with a towel... Now, I can laugh about it.

What color was your 79? Was it a wagon? My wife and I really like one in orange.

Check where the hood cable enters through the firewall. That area is supposed to drain. But often at the factory, body caulk plugs the weep hole causing water to pool and enter the passenger compartment.

There may also be water entry at the door hinge where it is bolted to the body.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I also have a 1992 240 GL. A well neglected wee beastie. I'm still bringing the beastie back to a more proper operating condition. Prior owners have abused the poor wee beastie. I felt sorry for it and got it for nothing. I had to replace the windshield. The air and water stay out, yet it is the worst looking job, using a damned Pilkington brand piece of soft made in China crap glass I've ever used. All prior windshield installs I've performed were using OEM glass windshield kits like SEKURIT, SCANEX, and SUNEX.

If you or someone has such skill, you may be able to remove and replace the butyl rubber gasket under the left (driver side North America) lower corner that has failed.

If you have the original Volvo 240 windshield, you may be able to lift up the flush mount reveal (apron) secured to the plastic frame around the glass. You have to be careful doing this.

What brand glass do you have? Does it say Volvo at the lower right (passenger side)? Brands can include SEKURIT (by Saint-Gobain) SCANEX, or maybe SUNEX? Doubtful it is Trempex. If it says any other brand and made in USA or China, your windshield is a replacement.

If your windshield is a replacement, more than likely it is adhered in the windshield pan using a urethane adhesive. Not so serviceable. Yet you could make use of a judicious adhesive sealant like very small amounts of gorilla glue or maybe an outgassing adhesive like Goop Marine, RV, or Auto. Like butyl rubber, urethane windshield adhesive can be black yet, more recently, can be pink, light blue, and a host of other colors.

You may want to take the car to a high pressure self service car wash and force out the years of bio-crap accumulation under the flush mount reveal (apron). Spray along the pillars and top and bottom to force water between the apron and the painted surface. Spray into the seam between the glass and trim edge. Bio crap should come out. You want the windshield pan to be clear of this crap so it quickly dries.

The years of bio-crap collected at both lower corners of the windshield pan (the recess the windshield gasket and glass windshield rest in) has a deleterious effect on the butyl rubber. More so, a small drain hole, one at some inches from either corner, exists to drain the bottom of the windshield pan (along the length parallel to the windshield glass). Bio-crap build up collects. Moisture persists for days after any rain or a car wash. The wet condition can cause rust and can be a very expensive repair to have done at a body shop or a very enduring repair you do yourself.

You can try, then, to lift the flush mount reveal (apron). If secured with a black matter, it is butyl rubber. Butyl rubber suffers from outdoor storage under tannin producing foliage (like Oak trees). You may be able to scoop out the brittle and aged butyl rubber in either direction from the leaking section until it is sticky and pliable again. Clean the area under the glass using a residue-free solvent like brake parts cleaner. Then fill the void using butyl rubber tape (bead) or more easily use butyl rubber from a caulk gun.

Questions?

Comments?

Suggestions?

Well wishes?

I'm Going to Go Get Some Buttermilk.

My money is on your 1992 having the original Volvo marked windshield.

A water test pretty much proved I had a leaking windshield which just happened to be dripping over the fuses on my 1992. The original windshield was replaced and the problem solved. I inspected the old windshield and body when it was removed and there was a small grit filled void in the butyl seal next to the glass. Probably a cold joint/automated start and end point in the caulking process aggravated by 20 years of slow motion shrinkage.

Don't bother trying to seal the rubber trim around the windshield. It is not designed to stop water from getting under it. You would have to get a large bead under the trim to stop the leak.

Tom

it does not have cruise control but im guessing there is a hole where that stuff would come through...would I need to take the dash off..or everything below it?

There doesn't seem to be any noticeable holes from looking in the engine compartment or any other way for water to get in?

If you paid the $200 for a new windshield I could almost guarantee that the problem will go away- i lieu of this, run a gentle bead of silicone caulk around the seal on the driver's side.

It is most likely your windshield seal. Have someone run a hose over it as you watch from under the dash for leaks. Common problem...

I should also mention that changing the fuse fixed the blower motor which from doing some research saved me an entire weekend at least

On the late model 240 their is a flex conduit the runs from the drivers side engine compartment to just above the fuse panel. If you have cruise control their is a semi-ridged vacuum line that runs from the cruise control vacuum pump to the interior valves inside the car. If not sealed properly water can travel down the vacuum line and conduit and short out the fuses. If you do not have cruise control check to make sure the conduit is properly sealed.

Ron J