So, it started with building the tool. Should have gotten 2 maybe 3 8" bolts, as the 1st one broke. It wasn't a hardened bolt, as a hardened bolt where I live in that length had to be special ordered.. We got through the 1st bushing no problem, but it broke with the 2nd bushing.. Do the tool building on day 1 and the job on day 2... It will take the entire day most likely if it's your 1st time.





Here is the tool, being lined up for drilling


Here it is being supported and drilled.


Grinding the threads off of the end cap wasn't easy. It has to be ground down to the right diameter, and not too thin. A bench grinder was used, and a drill on the other side of the end cap, but the rotations were too much, and the cap kept falling off. We then used a locking pliers and just manually turned it.




Tool finished, again, buy 2 or 3 bolts just to be on the safe side. Or have a bike at the ready.


We put jack stands where the typical jacking points are, and jacked the car up by the differential.
When loosening the TAB bolt, make sure you're loosening the nut and not the bolt head.. (whops) the nut is on the outer (wheel side) and not the inner (differential side)
When you drop the suspension and take off the Anti-Roll bar, keep a jack on hand to catch and hold the differential. Have many small pieces of wood on hand too. It helps to hold up parts that fall and need to be propped up.

Here is the tool in place. Notice the spacer being held in there.


To get the bushing pushed out, 2 wrenches are needed. one to hold the nut, and the other to turn the bolt on the tool you just made. Don't forget the spacer! Spray with PB Blaster liberally. When tightening the tool, get a large, long breaker bar, and place the wrench in it. Use the leverage of the ground to hold it in place. With the wrench on the other end, a regular hammer works the best. Extra points for swearing.




It won't be easy, especially if it's rusty. Little leeway and a partner to help take "wacks" at it, helps. Once it gets going, you'll be able to tell, and eventually it will push out.


Did I mention it's a 2 person job? It is.. 2 heads are better than one on this project. One to swear, and the other to encourage.. Mistakes will be made, and it's best not to give up once started..

When bushings are out, look at the new bushing. One side is smaller and tapered. this is the side pushed into the hole you pushed the old bushing out of. It won't fit in any other way.. You could use anti seize but I didn't. The tool you used to push out, is then used to push the new one back in.. Same way, just turned around. Sorry, I don't have a picture of that, but that's one of the easy parts.. We made a crude washer to fit the tool, or else it might slip in and damage the rubber. (don't ask how i found out) Take your time to line it up, and be sure it's equally square all around. don't tighten if it's uneven, you may damage the tool, or bushing.

When done, and the springs are in, and everything is put back, make sure the rear shock is left for last. The parts won't line up if you put that on first.. This is also where the 2 jacks come into play. One is still holding the differential, and the other is now lifting up the rotor.. It takes some lifting and lowering of both to line it up properly.


When done, and everything is torqued down, lower it, and re-torque the bushing bolts when the weight of the car is on it's wheels. You can either crawl under it, and muscle it, or back it up on ramps to get under there more easily.. I was wishing at this point I had ramps... But that's it!... Easy, when you have 2 people, 2 or more bots for the tool, and 2 jacks. Good luck.