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half illuminated dash lights due to failed alternator, might be of interest to some 200








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    half illuminated dash lights due to failed alternator, might be of interest to some 200

    sorry guys, looks like the message went off without me writing any text. So here goes:
    About a week ago, I noticed that the parking light, the generator light and the brake warning light were glimmering. Almost impossible to notice in the light but visible in the darkness or in a tunnel. Initially thought this would be a earthing problem and cursed the electronics on the car as these have kept me well occupied over the last few weekends. Weekend came and went, no time to sort this out, until my wife broke down with it in town. Left it in a car park, got the bus home and pressed the trusty Beetle into service (honestly, the older the car, the more reliable they are). One giveaway she mentioned were slow wipers as she she been driving with headlights on and the wipers operating. Put a spare battery on charge and cycled to the car after work with a toolbox and the spare battery. Started the car, chucked the bike in the back and back home. Pulling off the negative battery terminal whilst the car was idling happlily away stalled the engine meaning the car was running on battery power, not the alternator, so this confirmed the alternator was dead. A good s/hand alternator later off a 740, all glimmering lights are out, the car feels livelier, idle(which was a little lumpy) is dead steady. I took the opportunity to wire brush all terminals on the "new" alternator (especially earth) and smear them with copper paste. All screws were cleaned and greased, especially the long adjuster bolt whilst I was at it.

    Hope this can be of use to someone else.

    cheers from Switzerland, and thanks for this forum which really helps keeping my old barge on the road.
    Pierre








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      half illuminated dash lights due to failed alternator, might be of interest to some 200

      hmm.. another double post...
      Good write up of the alternator problem. Now that you have the Bosch out of there I'll bet all it needs is a new set of brushes. Worth about $8.00 usd.








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        half illuminated dash lights due to failed alternator, might be of interest to some 200

        You are very likely right about the brushes. The failed alternator is silent as anything, no bearing problems, I was planning to buy some brushes to repair it and put it back into the shelf for another rainy day. It's done well, mind, still is the original and lasted 403 000 kms, approx 240k miles (no mention of any alternator change in the service paperwork until 278000kms when I bought the car. I tend to leave the belts ever so slightly slack (not tightened like mad like many other cars I've seen) which helps on the bearings. I've been running Opel cars for the last 25 years which are notorious for water pump failures but never had such a problem in over 200k kms. If I can twist the belt between 90° and 150° on its longest stretch, this is about right for me.

        thanks your comments, much appreciated.

        Pierre








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      some interesting tests here for apparent electrical power questions here 200

      hi sages- read with interest this article about dash light failure and alternators. first question- is it accurate and safe to test charging system by taking off the negative battery cable while idling? poster said if engine stalls with negative cable off, system is running on battery , if not it is running on alternator. second question- on american tanks , if testing for alternator output i think the test is to put plus clip of a voltmeter on the large hot nut on the back of the alternator and the negative clip to ground while idling . meter reading at idle should be 13.5- 14.5 volts. this says the alternator is good. is this also true on the volvo 240? it is true as poster says that electronic problems on these newer tanks are nightmares contrasted to the older relics. thanks tons oldduke








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        some interesting tests here for apparent electrical power questions here 200

        Hi old duke,

        pulling off the neg cable is probably not the time-honoured way. But I should add that once the engine is out, you should not replace the cable straight away. Keep it out the way of the battery, switch the ignition off, then replace the cable onto the battery. NEVER do this if the engine keeps running. Same thing here, neg cable out the way, switch off the car, ignition out, then put the cable back on. Otherwise, you stand a good chance to blitz the diodes in the regulator.
        Maybe it's just my car but I've had to intervene a number of times on my 240 (1993) because of electronic-related problems, and this certainly seems to be an issue on BB. And electrnic-wise, I'm a caveman. But I learn. However, I'm convinced that compared with other makes (especially French and Italian), and the stellar mileages achieved by a lot of people in old Volvos which take a lot of components to limits never reached before, our tanks fare rather well. I think it's part of the philosophy of running an old Volvo : repair rather than throw away. I do, even if the car's worth little. Time and efforts are secondary, most of the time. It's part of the ethos.
        Happy cruising

        Pierre







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