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2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

I'll try to make this brief: I have noticed some of my lighted switches which stay lit for extended periods heat up from the 2721 indicator bulb. An example of this is the power antenna switch that I added; sometimes I leave it on for hours at a time so I can listen to the radio, and when I turn it off, it feels uncomfortably hot.

I am sure we have all seen switches in a 240 with melted or cracked plastic, and I want to avoid damaging my carefully scrounged switches. Additionally, I have had several 2721 switch bulbs burn out over the years and would like a more durable bulb. My solution? LEDs.

Not wanting to invest a lot money in researching the viability of LED replacements, I found some cheap ones on eBay. Here are two types of LED compared to the original Osram 2721 indicator bulb:

LED comparison

As you can see from above, I found a surface-mount type LED, and a dome type, both claiming to be replacements for the 2721 bulb. Both types of LED cost less than $1 each, even considering shipping. Both types have built-in resistors, and are ready to use with a 12-14v source.

The surface-mount type (see below) was poorly made. The LED was only secured to the plastic wedge-base body with a piece of poorly applied heatshrink tubing. Futher, some of the leads/contacts were cut too long or bent the wrong way. That said, every one of the 10 pieces that I bought lights up bright, fits into the switches, and provides a nice, diffuse light.

I think if the Chinese orphans who assembled these LEDs had used a squirt of epoxy during construction, they would have been very good bulbs. I was able to improve them by cutting away the heatshrink and running some Superglue around the LED.

LED comparison

The dome type LED (below) was too long. On some switches, the colored plastic inserts popped out when I inserted these LEDs, and on others, the super narrow light beam simply left a bright dot on the switch indicator. However, they are better made than the surface mount LEDs.

I was able to solve the length issue and the lack of light diffusion by sanding down the acrylic dome. They now work quite well in all the switches.

As a side note, these dome type LEDs are were perfect as-is for the shift indicator light. PERFECT. They fit without modification and the narrow beam is desired for that purpose.

LED comparison

Below is another comparison showing my modified LEDs and the original 2721 bulb.

LED comparison

After sorting out the fit/quality issues with the LEDs, I wanted to be sure that they actually heated up the switch less than the incandescent bulbs. First, I checked current draw.

The original Osram 2721 bulb drew .13 amps @ 13v.
The surface-mount type LED drew .03 amps @ 13v.
The dome type LED drew bewteen .02 and .03 amps @ 13v (My meter's resolution is only good to the nearest hundredth of an amp; it kept flip-flopping.)

Next, starting with the switch at 82 degrees F each time, I inserted each type of bulb and measured the temperature of the plastic insert after 10 minutes with an infrared thermometer, recording the hottest reading.

The original Osram 2721 bulb heated up the switch to 180 degrees F in 10 minutes.
The surface-mount LED heated up the switch to 106 degrees F in 10 minutes.
The dome type LED heated up the switch to 94 degrees F in 10 minutes.

Encouraging results, no? I'm expecting these LEDs to last at least as long as the incandescent bulbs have, and I am hoping for longer. Either way, the sub-$1 pricetag makes them cheaper to replace, and I know that my switches are now safe from overheating.

Hopefully somebody else will find this useful.

Sean









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    2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

    Well-done! I'm an LED geek and have experimented with replacing the filament bulbs in my bricks with them. I bought a few of the dome-type LEDs you showed and also had fitting problems with them. I never thought of grinding down the dome; I thought it was a hollow dome as opposed to more solid.

    I use my front Bosch foglights as DRLs and the switch in the dash is always on. I worried that a filament lamp would melt the switch's lens. I did use an LED in the switch for a while but it failed after only a few years. These LEDs should last far longer than that.

    Where did you buy your LEDs? I've used superbrightleds.com in the past.
    --
    Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
    Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
    Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

    1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
    All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40








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      2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

      Mike, see my response to Art for the source of the LEDs. I bought both kinds cheaply on eBay.

      The through-hole, dome type LEDs are encased in solid plastic - not sure if it is acrylic or epoxy or what. I suspect the plastic dome may act as a heat sink for the LED, meaning that sanding it down could reduce its life; time will tell.

      As for the life of all LEDs, I would guess that they will last a significantly shorter period of time in a car because of the large temperature swings and occasional extreme heat. If I understand correctly, LEDs draw more current when they are hotter. You get into the car on a 95 degree day after it has been sitting in the sun for hours and the cabin temperature may be well outside the operating temperature range for the LED. Could cause it to burn out. That's mostly speculation, I have not done any tests to prove it.

      Btw, my incandescent indicator and switch bulbs burn out often, so a few years out the LEDs woud be fine by me.

      Let us know if you buy from Superbrightleds.com - they have some good looking 2721 LED replacements, but theyre thrice the cost . Might be worth it...

      Good luck!
      Sean








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        2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

        I purchased these LED's from sellers in eBay including other sizes for really reasonable prices, also other colors. If you want more brightness try the ones that come with SMD's. I'm using these for stop light and parking light applications, such a great difference and no more burnt bulb sockets or bases!








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    2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

    Thanks for the report Sean. I think maybe I'll try some out I know the bulged out/warped seat heater switches in my 90 244 will breathe a sigh of relief.

    Travis








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      2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

      The seat heater switches are the worst offenders, though I do not currently have seat heaters. Past 240s, and those I've seen in junkyards, have always had partially melted and cracked seat heater switches. Too bad, because they're so useful for other things, like my relocated overdrive solenoid cutout switch.

      The only other stock switch that I can think of that stays on for long periods is the a/c switch.








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    LED current draw 200

    I wasn't happy with the accuracy of my first current readings on the LEDs, so I dug up a much more sensitive meter.

    @ 13v
    Surface-mount LED: 26.4mA

    Dome type LED: 21.9mA

    Measured on a once-calibrated Fluke 8060a.








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    2721 indicator bulb LEDs 200

    Thanks, this is really good stuff. I am about ready to go through and replace a bunch of bulbs in my recently-acquired 740 anyway, so it makes sense to go with LEDs while I am at it - perhaps also for the other bulb types, if I manage to do some similar experiments myself.
    --
    now: '86 745 (Jerry Sizzler) ex: '89 244 (Olof)







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