I am frustrated trying to determine why my 1963 544 repeatedly ends up with a dead battery after only a couple of days sitting. The battery is new and if I drive the car my voltmeter reads 14 volts and I don't have a problem starting.
My replaced B20 engine has an one wire alternator installed. Advice is welcomed. Thanks, Gregg Can be viewed at https://picasaweb.google.com/105476988903147741882/Volvo544#

I would suspect a glove compartment or dome light switch not turning off.
My trick method is to take a blown fuse and solder a light bulb across it.
Replace each fuse with the trick fuse. The circuit that lights the light is the one to check.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

If you don't have a meter but you do have a test lamp probe (cheap at auto supply) just disconnect the ground strap and bridge the strap to the batt neg with the probe. If it glows at all, you have a leak. Pull fuses till it goes out to narrow it down and go from there. Good luck.

Hello,

If you use the inline test light technique at the battery ground terminal and the light is still on after pulling all the fuses you will need to check the unfused electrical items like the alternator and the starter, both of which can cause a draw on the battery when defective.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

I just went through this on my '83 245. I'm assuming that it's not a charging problem. The way I found the culprit was using a volt meter. I measured current draw at the battery (meter set on amps and placed in series with the battery) and saw that I had a 60 milliamp draw. I then went to the fuse box and with everything off I probed each circuit until I found which was drawing the current. A small current draw on some is normal, like the radio, but I was getting that 60 m-amp draw on the fuel pump circuit. Turns out is was an aftermarket tach that was wired in there. It was killing my battery if I didn't drive it weekly.

BTW, I love the photos of your car. I'm restoring a '59 PV. I was wondering what the heat shield is made of, the one between the carbs and the exhaust manifold.

Vince

Thin galvanized sheet steel. I have several of them.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma