Hi All,

I am having a problem with an M46 transmission, and I am not sure if the problem is caused by a worn out clutch, or internal transmission wear.

Engine/transmission have 300,000+ miles. The clutch has about 160,000 miles on it. It engages right off the floor and there is no slack left in the cable, which normally means that the disc is worn and need to be replaced. However, the clutch does not slip, even under full throttle acceleration.

The problem is that I have a lot of difficulty getting into 1st and 2nd gear and, to a lesser extent, 3rd and 4th, although 4th usually slides right in. When I started to have this problem, about 5,000 miles ago, I noticed that the gears engaged easily with the engine turned off, so I thought that the clutch was the cause of the problem and bought a clutch kit that I just haven't had time to install yet.

Now, the car does it with the engine off, too. Getting into 1st gear is sometimes d**n near impossible. 2nd is almost as bad. Other times, it shifts with no problem, but it is still a little notchy. When it is really bad, I feel a lot of resistant in the shifter. I basically have to "slam" it into gear.

Other symptoms: unless I keep my foot on the brake, the car "crawls" forward in 1st gear. Also, when I push the clutch in at speed, the revs slowly drop to idle speed instead of immediately dropping.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

"The clutch has about 160,000 miles on it"
"bought a clutch kit that I just haven't had time to install yet.

you need a new clutch. install the one you bought. you were right on the first diagnosis.

stop looking for worse problems.

I would also highly encourage a really close look at the fire wall. I used a metal plate used by framers when bolting down the exterior walls to the foundation. Its a square piece with an elongated circle cut out in the middle. With a little bit of filing the clutch cable fits fine and keeps the stress off the fire wall.

Mine got so bad that it snapped my cable due to uneven stress near the pedal and I had to remove the entire pedal assembly and have it welded since the fire wall's crack then led to the pedal plate cracking. Anyone with a manual trans should reinforce the firewall ASAP.

Clutch adjustment first.

Then check the firewall plate where the cable comes though. Have an assistant operate the clutch pedal while you look from under the hood for flexing of that plate.

They crack commonly, and that will cause your exact symptoms.

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Remove the shifter boot, find the reverse lockout (detent) plate on the driver side of the shifter, loosen the mounting screws and readjust slightly to the left.

There needs to be a couple of mm slack at both ends of the clutch cable for proper operation. The clutch cable may not be adjusted correctly if it is hard to get into gear or the car is creeping forward in gear with the clutch pushed in.
Dan