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going down road or at a light car goes dead, just cuts out 700

posted by  Dave1313 on  Wed Apr 18 21:44 CST 2012
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last visit: Sat Jul 26 16:19 CST 2014
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Ok its a 1990 4 cyl 740 gl.
imm just going down the road and the car looses power, i have already replaced the fuel filter, the coil the battery,starter and altenator. do i need to replace the fuel pump?I wait like a minute and I can start the car again sometimes it goes out 2 r 4 times a day like that.








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    going down road or at a light car goes dead, just cuts out 700

    uid 52986's pic
    posted by  kyle-m on  Sat May 12 23:15 CST 2012
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    last visit: Tue May 29 01:04 CST 2012
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    any word on the problem? i just started having a similar problem with my 1992 740 turbo wagon. It stalled out going up a hill and all the dash lights came on. i put the brakes on, and it started back up a moment later, but that gave me a scare.








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    going down road or at a light car goes dead, just cuts out 700

    posted by  james_a_sousa on  Thu Apr 19 09:18 CST 2012
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014
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    Sounds like the Hall sensor - I had the same trouble with our '88 745 GLE - only I took it to my dealer after the first time that I had the problem.

    They had some sort of monitor that they put in the car and they told me that they had to run it for 3 hours to find the problem.

    Many people are surprised to find that a reputable dealer charges one hour's labor for troubleshooting - that's what mine does. I told my son-in-law about this and he told me that that is the policy where he works also - he is a Subaru tech.

    Once you replace two parts and do not find the problem, I think that you should have a good dealer look at it.
    --
    '96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 485,000 miles put on 9 bricks








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      Not likely a Hall sensor on a 1990 740 700 1990

      uid 18083's pic
      posted by  lucid on  Thu Apr 19 09:30 CST 2012
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014
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      A 1990 740 could be a turbo or Rex/Regina. Either one would have the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) driving the ignition, and thus a possible suspect if it's old (10 years or older).

      Another candidate (which I have experienced) is the Radio suppression Relay (RSR), which powers the injectors. As a test, it can be by-passed temporarily by jumper-wiring the two heavier wires at the relay connector plug.

      In my case, it was a faulty/intermittent ground for the RSR coil, on the right side inner fender near the headlight.

      Relay location varies (turbo vs Regina) and is described in the 700/900 FAQ.







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        Not likely a Hall sensor on a 1990 740 700 1990

        posted by  chuffsy on  Tue May 1 20:52 CST 2012
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        SHUCKY...any progress with your problem? Please report back , thats what makes this forum work! In any case there is a connector behind the carpet in the trunk next to the antenna motor. There should be a big pink wire there in the connector which in mine got brownish due to ,I guess heat build up over the years . It was corroded. Check it out ,drove me crazy , ordered new fuel pump and such and it turned out not to be that, nor the relays . Good luck.








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    going down road or at a light car goes dead, just cuts out 700

    posted by  someone claiming to be Farm Boy on  Wed Apr 18 22:15 CST 2012 [RELATED]

    1) Fuel pump relay. I am not familiar with the 700 but on a 240, you run a jumper between fuses #4 and #6 I think. If that keeps the fuel pump (and the car) running, the problem is most likely the relay, but can also be the ECU, which controls the relay.

    2) Crank position sensor. Have you ever replaced yours? If not, it is overdue to have the insulation crumble off its lead.








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      going down road or at a light car goes dead, just cuts out 700

      posted by  jerryc on  Wed Apr 18 22:35 CST 2012
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      last visit: Wed Oct 8 21:28 CST 2014
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      (3)power stage. These fail just like that and are best diagnosed by part swap.

      (4)fuel injection/radio suppression relay. These are a prime source of failure, as well as the grounds for the injection.
      But based on the randomness and quick restart I'd go with power stage.

      Also, read the FAQ, and look for lucid's 'start-run sequence' for your model, Bosch lh2.4, or Regina.
      Develop a plan, not just throw parts at it. Alternator would have nothing to do with a cut-out and restart, for example.







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