Hey board,
Im doing a trailing arm bushing change, and Im going to use poly bushings.
Ive done alot of reading here about this procedure, but Im still confused about a couple of things.

With almost 200,000 miles on the car, and with roughnness I feel from bumps, and the way the rear end tends to slide sideways in curves, Im pretty sure the bushings are toast, and probably wont be that hard to get out. However, I just want to be sure I have the proper tools and methodologies in place to complete this job once I start.

Here are my issues:

1. Is there a product name for the "marine" lube used to prevent squeaking?

2. Are the bolts securing the bushings reusable. If not, what do I replace them with? Is corrosion and issue with removing the bolts?

3. Would someone elaborate on the Keyhole saw method of old bushing removal. Do you recommend this method, or not?

4. If I need to clean up the shells, I intend to use my dremel. Comments please.

5. Anything, anyone can tell me to make this job easier and sucessful would be highly appreciate it.

Ive seen the pictorial presentation via the archives. Its a nice presentation, and very useful, but, in my opinion, not complete.



I will be installing a new set of gabriel gas adjust shocks in this process.


thanks
Larue

For polyurethane I would use silicone grease. Most marine greases are petroleum based and might degrade the polyurethane overtime. It is also good for plastic like shifter bushings, odometer gears and window sliders. silicone grease

I second Uncle yama's motion for the Super Lube Silicon Grease for all Urethane bushes. You can get Super-Lube Syhnthetic Grease NLGI grade 2 at your local Ace and (maybe better) True Value hardware stores.

More apt than the Sil-Glyde 1990Volvo240 mentions. Though Sil-Glyde makes a perfect lube for the backs of brake pads and like.

I just discovered the front TABs are failed on my 1991 after ten years and about 50k miles. Nurse, a Volvo 240 TAB tool please. Maybe I'll do urethane.

Yet how to you lube those rear suspension bushes (or any suspension bushes) once installed? Not like you have a zirk fitting. I've read someone drilled and threaded in Zirks for those urethane bushings on their 240 somewhere on the brickboard in the last year or somewhat.

cheers,

MacDuff and the grey fuzzy kitty and some Volvo 240s.
--
New 02 sensor on the 1991 Volvo 240. Yet it is the 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon WA-states requires for emissions inspection for the May 2013 sticker.

After changing all my 3 240's over to poly I have gone back to all rubber. Apparently the regular steel crush tubes don't hold up to the New England weather. Without regular relubing the crush tubes after 2 years are heavly rusted, after 4 years toast. Seriously the crush tubes need to be made with stainless steel. The one place I still use rubber is torque rods. I drilled and installed grease zerks along with cutting grease channels in the crush tubes. This works so-so as the grease doesn't get spread uniformly. One other place I would consider using poly is the rear control arm but only with a stainless steel crush tube.

I had most every bushing that I could replaced with polys about 5 years ago-and they are still going strong. The rubber ones gives a softer ride I think but the polys last longer-lube them occasionally.

Hi,

Here is a set of pics (not mine) that I had bookmarked for reference:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jetstar5224/sets/72157622512917998/

There was also another set of pics I thought I had bookmarked that someone had on one of the pic sites that had used poly bushings-I can't find it now.

For your questions

1. I would guess that you could probably use Sil-gyde that you can get in a tube at your local NAPA.

2. Mine bolts when I did the job were reusable and in good condition and I live in salty PA. Not sure where you are located.

3. Can't comment on this one as I used a TAB tool with Boge rubber bushings.

4. Again, can't comment directly.

5. I would add use plenty of PBlaster and spray the bolts, bushings and all parts you will be removing each day for a couple days before the scheduled removal. Make sure you have a good 1/2" drive breaker bar or better yet an impact wrench.

Hope that helps,

Travis

Thanks.
I looked at the pics. Great pics.
The part about using P blaster a couple days before is a good point. Thanks for that.

Larue