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My daughter's pride and joy (she paid for Inga herself) is a daily driver 92 745. She runs fine and drives solidly, BUT the rattling and tapping noises upon startup (compared to our other 3 B230 Volvos) is quite excessive. After the oil rises up, it settles down.
Here's the rub: I have a rebuilt B230 head in storage (My office ,as a piece of 'Art')from an 86 740 with little mileage on it. Would the 86 swap onto the 92? I have the time off during Xmas/New Year's holiday to do the exchange under the carport. I need to strike while the iron is hot. Also have the gasket set on hand.
What suggestions does the Brickboard say??
Thanks,
el raidman
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I have a '91 B230f from a 740 (about 140k miles) out in the shed collecting dust.
Where are you?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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Thanks,Don:
I'm in Brownsville, Texas on the Mexican border (bullets from a firefight flying into my building at the local university a few weeks ago). Too far away to pick up the engine from you, unless it is summertime. My wife is a certified Yankee (Connecticut) and we spend some time in the summer up in New England.
I've almost finished replacing the head on daughter's car. I just finished switching over the studs for the intake manifold from her OEM head to the donor head. I added a new water pump, will add a new timing belt and new tensioner. The seals were done last year, so I'll leave them alone. I'll add a good unbroken and uncracked set of timing covers. I repaired her OEM with duct tape and silicon seal.
I really like to do this type of job myself, as I can redo all the mistakes previous mechanics have made on this engine. I hear this a lot from non-Volvo techies " I found it that way and I just redid it as I found it". These people do not have an idea about reading the manual to figure out why the timing belt guards should face out, or why a broken stud in the manifold should be replaced.
anyway, Happy New Year (Feliz Ano Nuevo!!).
el raidman
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OK, Goatman and other Bricksters, you win. I just consulted with another friend who teaches automotive at our local college and he agrees that an engine rebuild would be the most bang for the buck. So I'll put back on the stuff I took off yesterday,drive Inga till school is back in session, plan to walk to work and have the entire B230 re-ringed,etc. I already have a NEW oil pump on hand.
thanks,
el raidman
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit2002
on
Fri Dec 31 07:56 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
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Correct oil pressure has to be verified but are you sure you're not hearing just a little high mileage piston slap? That also goes away as the engine temp increases.
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It may be piston slap,huh? The milage is 190,000. Perhaps a re-ring is in order? I have all the parts(rings,connecting and main bearings,etc) on hand. How can one tell if the B230 needs a rebuild? Compression test?
thanks,
el raidman
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Raidman,
If the piston skirts are worn away already, installing rings will not bring them back and the noise will remain.
What kind of noise are you hearing? They sell Autometer oil pressure gauges at Autozone. A worthwhile investment.
Goatman
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The noise is heard only upon start-up when the engine is cold. It is a deeper stronger noise than tappets. When the engine warms (and oil is pumped up?) the clattering stops.
I guess that I need to get another Red Block B230 from the U-Pull-It yard. They are having a sale of engines for $99 exchange. I have this next week off, so I have the time to take one out of the 4 740's or the 3 240's. I prefer the 740 so I don't have to deal with the distributor placement (I have a 240 engine transplant into my 86 740 already).
Thanks,
el raidman
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Make sure that you use a good quality oil filter. A lot of the current ones on Auto store shelves have crappy anti-drain back valves.
These engines when in tune will run immediatley upon start up. Therefore the engine is running "dry" until the oil pump pushes oil up to the head and builds pressure.
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It may be better to use a filter with an anti-drain feature, but when I observed the head without the valve cover, there is a dam that holds oil up in there overnight. I think this is OK because it means that some oil pools up in the head and an anti-drain feature is really not needed. Or am I wrong?
thanks,
el raidman
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Where can you get the $99 engines?
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At U-Pull-it Auto parts found in Waco and Brownsville, Texas (78520). The normal price for complete engines is $248 but for the next month, the are having a sale of $99 for an engine.
Looks like I would like to just remove a good B230 and keep in storage until needed at this bargain price.
Here's the link: http://www.upiautoparts.com/
Happy New Year!!
el raidman
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Also in Tucson, Az.
el raidman
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Raidman,
The tappets are oiled in a bath. Because of this, the quanitity of oil pressure for the head matters little in respect to noise, and the difference therein is small whether the pressure is high or low. Thus, the problem is likely not a problem with the cylinder head!
You are folly to remove the head for want of quiet. Adjusting the clearance should correct almost any problem with tapping, save a worn camshaft.
YOU NEED TO CHECK THE OIL PRESSURE!!!
The pump outlet supply tube seals can fail in such a way that the engine receives only a nominal volume. Remove the idea that the oil lamp is a substitute for the piece of mind of an actual instrument. The lamp quenches at 2 psi.
Goatman
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There will be some differences in sensors for the fuel injection but the heads, otherwise, are identical. They have a number cast into the exhaust side that starts with 10000. Both your heads should end in 530 and should be identical castings...
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Dale
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Yes about the sensors. The 86 head had Bosch and hers has Regina fuel injection. That should not make a difference, correct?
Also both are NON-turbo.
el raidman
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Edit: For whatever reason I am logged in as Jarrod; I will logout and try to login as rstarkie.
It can make a difference as I found out this fall. The temperature sensors can be different. Different enough that they won't swap in their functioning. One was blue/green and one was black.
I've been told the black will work in anything, but the green one would not work in place of the black one.
This is in reference to the temperature sensor that provides information for the ECU not the one for the temperature gauge.
Randy
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It looks like I will have to remove the Regina head's sensors, heat and anneal any copper washers, then install these sensors into the Bosch head. My donor head does not have a distributor installed so I will use the one on the Regina head. It looks the same as the Bosch (I have rebuilt the distributor with new seals and washers inside).
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Raidman,
Did you read my post?
Goatman
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Yes, I just read it. Here's the rub. I have a rebuilt used head that I need to use before a big move( out of town). I have some time off right now (one week), the weather is nice (70's and no rain forecast for the next 5 days), I have a gasket headset on hand. I have a friend to help. Even if the problem is a worn oil pump (??) the replacement of the head will still help my daughter's car in the long run, no??
I will deal with the oil problem later if needed. I intend to drive her car as my daily driver for the next few months to figure out the problems with it.
Thanks again for the suggestion.
tu amigo,
el raidman
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Check the distributors. My 1990 (Regina)and 1991 (Bosch Turbo) have the same, essentially empty, distributors. But the earlier 700s may have had some stuff, like a Hall-effect sensor or something in the dist. I've never had one, so don't know for sure. If the dists. are the same, that is a start.
As for the sensors, am not sure. Check the FAQ, and, later on I'll do the same (am busy right now). You may also want to check FCP Groton's web site. After you select your car's make, model, and year, then the type of parts you need, it will give you a choice of different types of the same part if the Regina and Bosch parts are different. For example, the in-tank fuel pump. It gives you a choice of one type for Bosch cars, and another for Regina. It is a quick and crude check to see if there are different parts, or if they are probably the same. Then I usually take the part number from FCP and use it in Tasca Volvo's site to see what a genuine Volvo dealer's site says. If still in doubt after that, I'll call up the local dealer and ask him.
--
1955 Human, Scott; 1991 745 Turbo, Brunhilde; 1990 745GL, Snuggle Bunny
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Have decided to replace the entire engine...U Pull-it has a special price for the new year of $99 per engine exchange and I have just seen an 88 740 with 200,000 miles on the odometer with what appears to be an extremely shiny head. It seems the previous owner had the head redone, but still gave up on the car. Looks like I'll be spending the next week pulling out the B230 from this gem.
I know that piston slap is not dangerous, but I like my engines to purr from the get-go.
el raidman
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And what makes you believe that the 88 engine with 200,000 miles won't have pistons slapping worse than the engine you have? And why did the PO redo the head, and then give up on the car? Sometimes, better the devil you know.
Test your compression, test your oil pressure. If near spec, and you're not burning oil, continue to drive until the doors fall off. You should get at least a quarter million miles from the low end.
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Excellent advice!! After reading many posts from BBers about piston slap and piston knock, it seems it is fairly common. My daughter's 92 Red Block should last past the current 190K miles. I will, however, replace the head on hers with a rebuilt one that I have on hand.
I was just getting greedy with the $99 engine price.
Thanks for the '2X4 upside the head' advice.
El raidman
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