ok so got my rebuilt starter...installed..
new oil ..new gas...

wont start....tries to start...doesnt seem to want to turn over...or get spark...
new spark cables and spark plugs also..

any test i can to to see why i dont seem to be getting spark?

im a rookie

ill try the hand pump good idea...
the bowls were a tiny bit rusty...
they were not stuck at all

the gas tank only had like a half of gallon of gas in it when i drained it...no rust.

Might want to recheck your fuel pump rebuild. Does to diaphram rod engage to rocker arm?. I'm just getting my fuel problem fixed. Fuel line was sucking air and rust from the pump to tank line. 2 five foot brake line from Napa Auto parts and some tube bending to match to old lines and the air and rust is gone. Previous owner had the tank redone, but not the line. Almost thought it was the supply tube inside the tank. Sometimes you just have to prime the gasoline to get enough s
peed for the pump to feed.

It's also possible to fit the pump with the arm above the cam instead of below. Won't work then. Once you've cleaned out the float bowls, be fussy amd give them a few blasts of carb cleaner to clear out the varnish, top them up with fresh gas befor putting the caps back on. There will then be enough gas to give you a start if all else is OK. Did you check the dizzy position as mentioned in my previous post?

well heres what i did...
dont laugh...
i was checking for fuel lines for leaks.
so i shot air from fuel tank to carbs...all my hoses were essentially shot...replaced them all.
so yes there is a fuel in the glass bowl...did it do its on it own..i dont think so...

im not sure if installed it wrong..
i cnat find a nice pic of all the parts for the fuel pump...i replaced all the spart swedish treasures sent me

Here's some thoughts
That fuel pump has a nifty hand prime lever on the bottom that allows you to manually pump gas to the carbs!! You might want to disconnect the fuel line upstream of the pump and try pumping by hand to make sure you've got fuel as far as the pump.

Also, in the case of a potentially clogged fuel line, it's generally a better idea to blow from the front of the fuel line back into the tank. Blowing crud forward from a large container into a smaller line and then the pump, float bowls and jets is bad. Especially in the absence of filters. Got any?

Have you been into the float bowls at all? Those can nasty up fierce especially if water/moisture spent enough time in there. I've seen those brass floats frozen up with rust and oxidation. Getting it only to run on starting fluid is a good indication that it's fuel starved - I'd start at the float bowls and work back from there.

If there's crud in your tank, although you may get it running, you may soon find, somewhere down the road, that it dies for no reason, and so you might remove your tank and clean it out.

It's possible to put the pump on with the lever on the wrong side of the cam. Yes I've done it once but if you hold the pump with the flange parallel to the block as you fit it, you should be OK. Is this your problem? I don't know but worth checking. The early B16 glass top carbs had a manual lever underneath. This will work the pump but if the lever is the wrong side of the cam it won't work the pump.

it has a copper or brass lever on the bottom.
would you have a photo of all the parts...i vant find a good parts book on the pv444.

go here:
http://global.gcp.se/global/catalogues/nav49253?type=sc

click on section 02C

click on image 005 (bensinpump)

if i were in this situation: Is there voltage on the positive side of the coil with the key on(9v to 12v)? If no correct if yes remove distributor cap, turn engine until points are closed remove coil wire from cap place close to ground with key on and with a screw driver open points and let them close by the spring. Do the points spark and the coil wire spark to ground? if no correct if yes remove no. 1 spark plug place finger over spark plug hole and crank engine. The compression stroke will be obvious. Note rotor position. Is it pointing to no. 1 spark plug terminal? if no correct if yes note direction of rotor rotation check firing order in that direction. If all this is correct do you have fuel?

If (you say you installed new plug wires) they're in the correct order, I'm guessing that the bolt through the distributor body (that fastens the points, condenser and lead from the coil) is not insulated from the distributor body and thus causing your no start problem. Short from this bolt to the distributor body means no spark at the points.

i cna hear the starter...but the engoine wont actually fire up...starter is strong..rebuitl...what thould the voltage reading be :)

Are you sure it's a spark issue and not that it's getting no fuel through the carbs? Is the fuel pump working? Is gas getting to the carbs? Just checking. Sometimes I assume it's one thing and then it turns out to be something totally different.

you are correct sir...there is not gas getting to the carbs... i did the fuel pump rebuild kit...but its still not working

i can start it when i spray starting fluid into the carbs

I wouldn't use too much of that starting fluid. It tends to wash down the cylinder walls. Not real good for the engine. Can you see the fuel in the glass dome? Is it getting to the float bowl? I am assuming you have the SU carbs. Or do you have the Zenith?

Please check it and post back

Hello,


What is the voltage at the ignition coil’s positive terminal with the ignition key in the on position?


Goatman