I'm having a problem getting my water pump bolt holes to align in order to get all three bolts to engage the block. I have succeeded in getting only one of the three to thread. I experience in dong these w/p's on three 240s and an earlier w/p on this 760. All use the same w/p. I only use Volvo OEM. None have leaked after installation. For pressing the w/p upward, I'm using a ratchet tie down supported from above by a 4x4 and other sturdy lumber supports to gain a vertical lift that mashes the mushroom seal.

As I inspect my progress with a straight pic and mirror, it seems that the ornery bolt holes are not only vertically challenged but there is a very slight w/p rotation yet needed. Consequently, I set up the tie down to have the ratchet on the side with the one bolt giving the greatest problem. This I hoped would provide greater tension, encouraging a little rotation if any. Progress was made but not enough.

I have given some thought to using a bottle jack but not sure if this can be done safely or if it can effectively engage a bottom surface on the w/p.

I have compared the mashed mushroom seal thickness to that of a 240 in my driveway and think that I am mashing well. I even mounted the w/p up with no seals/gaskets and could see that the bolts will engage the block. Gasket and seal surfaces are all clean and smooth.

I'm now considering using a round file to slightly elongate the bolt holes.

So, have any of you had a similar problem? Even filed the holes?

Thanks in advance, For the fun of Volvos,
Mike



--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

I want to report back and bring closure on this evolution. Some of my details may benefit others. I had to remove the water pump when I quickly encountered a major league leak around the mushroom seal. The back of the seal nearest the block was not sufficiently in place.

I purchased a new seal and gasket from Advance Auto, not willing to reuse the OEM parts. OBSERVATION: Advance Auto's Felpro "o-ring" has a different geometry than OEM and it is more pliable. The o-ring has a flat surface where it mates to the cylinder head.

I used a 1x2x24" stick to leverage under the w/p, grabbing a small area of the p/s pump, to pry up. This is the same stick I used for a previous 760 w/p replacement and all previous 240's. But here, I rigged up an over the engine 4x4 and used a ratchet tie-down to gain a mechanical leverage necessary to mash the o-ring.

This was not enough. I noticed that with a pick I still was getting a misalignment between pump and block. OBSERVATION: The w/p slot holes are on a axis of 20 degrees CCW from vertical. The plane of the mating surface of pump to cyl. head is about 20 degrees CCW from horizontal. Noting this, I used a hinged wrench to twist the w/p relative to the block to gain this angle and bring the necessary bolt holes in alignment. This is the same wrench I use for gland nuts on the struts.

I now had water pump in position to pass the bolts through and get threaded into the block. SUCCESS! (and no leaks, yet).

Thanks to all of you for your interest in my dilemma. All your comments were thought over carefully my me and valued.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Hello,


I don't even know what to say about this.

I'm glad you fixed it.


Goatman

It seems way too detailed unless you have a replacement pump with manufacturing defects. I've done 2 pumps in the past 3 weeks (a used Volvo brand and a new Hepu, neither needing more than moderate upward leverage after the 2 nuts and 3 bolts were started well in.

--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

A manufacturing defect never left my mind. I've never had to resort this sort of detailed analysis or beyond moderate pressure.

Thanks,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

I've taken a rat tail file and cleaned out the holes a bit in the past. Sometimes the castings on the aftermarket pumps are kinda sloppy but I would think the blue box Volvo pump should be of high quality.

Before you put on a gasket or top seal, you might try hanging the pump on the engine with all five nuts/bolts loosely installed and just make sure you can slide the pump upward to where it makes contact with the head - use a mirror or a feeler gauge to verify. If it won't contact the head, file the holes until it does.

I'm holding off on any filing. I did mount up the water pump without the mushroom seal. The three bolts easily threaded. Without lifting the water pump, I measured the gap sans seal. Feeler gauge showed .056" - .057". I'm not sure what that means, but just wanted to find something quantify.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

I always install the 2 nuts, then use a couple of small philips screwdrivers to line up 2 holes, then insert the third bolt. Gently pry up on the drivers and snug it all up. Never had a leak.

Some will agree, others will disagree. I use RTV sensor safe silicon on the upper ring, heater core pipe. After a very frustrating first install yrs ago(kept seeping at both places). Now nothing but RTV to help seal.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Others may disagree with this modification but here it is,whenever I am doing this job I take the bolts to the shop grinder,taper the ends and then follow up with the wire wheel(kind of like sharpening a pencil,but only cut in about 3/16 of an inch)after doing this it is amazing how easily the bolts line them selves up.I have been using this method for years and have not yet cross threaded.I would not recommend filing the holes in the pump.
good luck

As strange as it feels, I must agree with the Goatman on this one, having just done my umpteenth 240 pump a few days ago, and with it fresh in my mind. I have a hunch that you may be overestimating the force needed to adequately compress the top seal. It's also possible your lifting sling may be causing trouble if you're applying lift before the 2 nuts and 3 bolts are loosely started.

I started all bolts & nuts (and return pipe/seal), then used a flat bar to lever upward on the pump with my left hand (240 alternator as a fulcrum*) while snugging up the nuts and bolts. Then I went around twice more, cautiously tightening each one a bit more, using one hand on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

* When I have to do my 940 pump I'll improvise a levering fulcrum because the PS pump isn't as conveniently placed (for that purpose) as the 240 alternator.


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

HOLD IT!!!


You thread the bolts in FIRST, then you pry the pump upwards and tighten the bolts.

A prybar always worked fine for me, I never needed a hoist.


Goatman

Any guidelines or rule of thumb on how much force is best or how squashed the seal should be? Before/after thickness? Sam's bumper car(93 940) is leaking from the headgasket waterpump gasket. I've done three and they haven't leaked but it was always a bit of luck and no real science behind my squishing. :)
Thanks
Bill

I was able to start on the water pump (Volvo OEM) for my '90 760GLT this morning before the rains came. The water pump is now mounted to the block. Per Goatman's suggestion, I modified my technique. Now this is done on a turbo 700, so the accessory arrangement is different from 240's. And the upper timing belt cover was removed, so I had to work around the timing belt and remaining covers. I researched a couple of FAQ 700/900 procedures and if I understand Goatman's suggestion correctly, his suggestion worked. The procedures in FAQ were not successful for me.

The heater hose seal was slipped onto the pipe. Gasket was set in place hanging from the two studs. The next step was the primary modification to my earlier technique. I wiggled the pump onto the two studs and engaged the heater pipe. Without threading on the nuts yet, I passed the three bolts through the w/p bolt holes and began threading all three into the block. The w/p was held away from the block so that I could take advantage of the slop to benefit the three bolts initial threading. Next, the two nuts were threaded onto the studs and I slowly began drawing the w/p to the block and all the time watching the mushroom seal to ensure it moved properly. I had to gently squish the mushroom's top edge, exposed to my view, with a small, dull flat screwdriver as it seemed it might fold back as I continued to draw the w/p tighter to the block.

Then with the nuts snug, I went back to my ratchet tie down rig to get some upward pressure. A lever or prybar didn't seem to fit as well as it would on a 240. All nuts and bolts were tightened. So, where I couldn't mount the water pump with my technique similar to FAQ's, Goatman's got me there. When the weather clears, I'll finish up and hopefully report no leaks as well.

For the fun of Volvo's,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

THANK YOU! I put away the file. In the back of my mind I was doubting my technique. Your suggestion all of a sudden made sense to me, I probably had done it this way with the others but never dragged it out of the deep dark recesses of my brain for this one. I've got to write this stuff down. It's probably in the FAQ. I'll give it a try tomorrow morning and let you all know.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT