Seriously, did they have to think extra time to make air filter replacement that difficult? Why can't I just unclip the two clips on top, tilt the box back, replace the filter, clip back on? Because there is that elbow duct connecting to the flow sensor that does not budge, the sensor's mounting bolt is spinning inside plastic housing, etc etc.

Result - the elbow duct has split on its factory weld. Solution - duct tape.

Can I buy new elbow duct anywhere? Is it the same on all models or, say, by the end of the model run the VLV engineers figured out to make the walls extendable like the duct that runs from the sensor to the manifold?

Thanks!

Aw come on give the guy a break. He's probably retired by now and maybe did a good job overall, probably even still drives a Volvo like us. The 240's were pretty well designed when you you look a the big picture.
--
David Hunter

I'm sure I have good used air box covers. If you come out to LI (Bay Shore) you can pick it up--$10 -- or I can mail one--$20 including postage. Get in touch at -- fastforwardphotoatyahoodotcom -- Dave

That duct was used on many years and should be available at the usual OE suppliers. Get genuine Volvo parts when dealing with important plastic or rubber bits.

I have never been able to just slip a new filter in. I unbolt the AMM from its rubber bushed mount on the inner fender, and move it and the flexible duct a bit to get the clearance so the filter box lid can be moved enough to R&R the element. Many replacements and (so far) no worries.
--
Bob: son's 81-GL, dtr's '94-940, my 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.

Hello,


Please don’t remove the airflow meter to change the air filter. Just slip it in!

Could you take a picture and post it?


Goatman

Just slipping it in does not work. From my experience, you have to twist the plastic elbow like 90-160 degrees and hope it comes off, and then hope it comes back on again.

I'd love to take off the AMM from its rubber support, but that bolt is spinning inside the AMM housing. I can't even think what it would take to get that bolt undone - another Dremmell cut-off job perhaps.

Thanks, all, my main question has been answered - it was the same crack consumers engineers who designed the fan motor setup.

That bolt with the rubber cushion should be 10mm and if the threads haven't been stripped, threads into the wheel well. To remove it rotate the 10mm head counter clockwise then gently pry under the head of the bolt to lift it out. Once you unclip the two clips, be aware the bottom of the cover has two tabs that slip into the airbox housing at a slight angle. It does require a little finess but with the 10mm removed you do have enough slack to remove the cover and slip a new air filter in. The bottom tabs are best engaged with the top of the cover at about a 30 degree angle, it doesn't work with only downward pressure. Yes, I feel the same way: Why did they make the A/F one of the most difficult simple things to R&R?

Thanks, I will look at the 10 mm bolt again. My feel was that it goes through the rubber bushing, then a bracket welded to the wheel well, and then into a nut that's probably embedded in plastic housing of the AMM box, like the headlight bolts are embedded in plastic.

So many of us love to criticize the engineers. That airbox, which has a filter flow that other cars go to K&N to achieve, was around well before the LH cars had to jam a revolutionary air metering device behind. Sure those engineers wanted to redesign the whole car, and some even got to -- that's why you have 700's.

Anyway, those elbows should be plentiful because Jiffy Lube is famous for breaking them.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Don't find fault, find a remedy. (Henry Ford)

But if you have an accordion tube running from AMM to the manifold, why not have an accordion on this elbow as well?

Sorry bro, just had to come to the defense of fellow geeks. You are correct about that AMM mount, but personally, I've never seen one frozen, but I've Dremeled off my share of headlight bucket nuts. Now there's a marketing/engineering choice. I wonder how many new car buyers would pay for the Stainless Steel Hardware Option. (Dang I wish all my bricks' original owners did!) More likely to buy the paint protector and extra undercoating, and that isn't likely at all.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Much later, when I was discussing cosmological problems
with Einstein, he remarked that the introduction
of the cosmological term was the biggest blunder he ever
made in his life." -George Gamow

Because both the AMM and the filter box are rubber mounted and there is relatively little movement between them during operation. The accordion hose between the AMM and the TB is to deal with the engine motion that wiggles/flops all over the place on its fat rubber mounts.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not happy about the rigid elbow either but heck it works. When I do filter changes on our 92 245, I unbolt the AMM mounting bracket from the inner fender well, if I recall correctly, it has an 8mm hex head on the bolt/screw.

jorrell
--
92 245 291K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!