Hi,

Someone is selling a 1983 240 wagon with 138k miles for less than $300. The catch is the throwout bearing needs replacement and the overall condition is "fair." Please give me advice about sizing up this car. I read that the 1983s have wire harness problems, for example. I appreciate any and all help.

A $300 rusty headache is a parts car. I don't think anyone will steal an 89 240 unless there is something inside they want. Try to find a decent one; there are plenty around. You'll still need to dump $$ into it
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89 240 Wagon 217K, 94 940 185K

The first thing I usually assess is rust, which is more awkward to repair properly than most mechanical problems or a worn interior or tired paint. Some of the rust-prone areas on 240s are: under the windshield, floor sections if the windshield has been leaking, the tailgate, and the rear of the car under the tailgate. If it has much rust I'd walk away, even at $300.

David

'71 144DL, '88 240GL B200E

Thank you for your reply. At the risk of being penny wise and pound foolish, I wanted to get a fixer-upper to save on DMV fees and taxes; I know that any car can become a money pit, tho. I might be naive for asking, but what's the problem with rust? Why can't I fix the areas with Bondo? I actually want my car to look bad so that it doesn't get stolen (though I guess not many teenagers joy ride in Volvo 240s). I live in the Left Coast, so rust is an issue out here.

bondo does not restore the structural integrity of the steel panel. You can surely find a rust-free example almost as cheaply. My 1989 245 cost me $700, and is rust-free.

John

I paid $500 for my 86 245 in 2005, put a few hours in it catching up the maintenance, then started using it as a daily driver. It has made one trip across country since and is rust free.

Regards,