Couldn't get the listing, but any 140 is an easy fix. Rust could be an issue. But that can be said for any car that is at least 35 years old!

I think the 140 series was Volvo's best product. The beauty is in their simplicity. There is still a bunch of support for theses models.

So...did you buy it, or what? It certainly looked like it had potential!

If the body is good, everything else is easy. You would not spend a sent on the auto, just dump it & install a manual. Naturally aspirated, the B20 is a better motor too BUT if you did have a turbo B23/B230 'laying' around, of course it will fit along with the M46.

If you like working on 240's, then the 140 will seem rediculously easy to work on by comparison.

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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

I'm in the middle of getting a 1974 142 running, but am only part of the way there. As such, I'm sure others here can offer more help, but I'll take a quick stab at it:

1) Regardless of who responds, it will take more details, given that the ad has no pictures of the actual car and isn't specific about the oil leak or the "almost no rust".

2) $3K sounds pretty crazy for just about anything, as far as I'm concerned, but who knows who this mechanic is. Even if it needs a new trans, a used one can be found - just a matter of searching and patience, as well as a question of how much you can do yourself.

3) The "runs, but not well" part is where I imagine the K-Jet fuel injection system comes in, but that could be anything from getting old gas and gunk out of the tank and a new fuel filter to replacing or repairing a fuel distributor, or several things in between. If you're lucky, the MFI is fine, and it's an ignition problem, or whatever. Again, there's so little info available, that it's hard to say.

4) What would your goal be for the car? Do you just want to get it to a reasonably reliable running condition (for now)?

5) In my brief experience, parts are not as common as those for 240s. 140s are less common and weren't in production for nearly as long as the 240. That being said, most simple mechanical items are available. The problems come in with certain MFI items (only on the 1974 140) and some interior and exterior bits. Upsides to those are that some early 240 MFI items are compatible. Also, I've found some VERY helpful people through this forum and who had parts!

I hope that helps at least a little bit. The key is to look at the car, as the ad doesn't give much away. $500 isn't particularly high or low for a car with problems...it just depends on what the problems turn out to be.

There's nothing to be afraid of with the 142. Every automatic has some sort of oil pump built in--some transmissions have two. The BW35 isn't the most sophisticated or loved transmission in the world but it will perform well for many years/miles. They are fairly simple and can be found used and parts are available for rebuilding. The oil leak--if from the motor--can be due to many causes--some simple like valve cover gasket--maybe a little more involved like original type felt rear main and front timing cover seals which can split from drying out if the car isn't used much--easy things to address (upgrade to later style rear seal while the tranny is out). Maybe it's more involved like worn or broken rings causing overpressure in the crankcase and the motor has to come apart. It's about as simple a motor as you'll ever find. If you do most of the heavy lifting yourself I could see having a nice 142 on the road for not a lot of money. I'd look further into the shape of the front and rear suspension. 140's have more wear points (in the front) than the 240. A thorough front end examine should be a must-checking steering rods, ball joints, idler arm, control arm bushings. All the parts are available but a front end rebuild is labor intensive. Good luck. -- Dave