Okay i have a problem, my 92 245 that I just got has a lot of crankcase pressure, after cleaning the flame trap it had no improvement so I decided to remove the oil seperator and clean it. Guess I didn't read far enough I also tried to remove the oil return line to clean it, now it would appear that the oil pan has to come off?! Please there must be another way, I have pulled many pieces of the hose out of the block and can see the rest, it looks like it is sitting on something, any sugestions??

If anyone cares I put it back together without the oil return line and so far it is working just fine, haven't found any new leaks. Thanks to all for your help and coments.

If it works, it beats dropping the oil pan, doesn't it?
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I put this under LUCID's name. Thought you might miss it there.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1425916&nr_no=1
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

Assuming you are able to pull all the pieces out(hose and rubber Oring) then I see no problem with simply putting the clean Oil seperator back on without the return line. Think about it, thats all the it is, a return line to guide the oil back to the crankcase. Without the line there will simply be a slightly larger orifice for the oil to make its was back to the crankcase. My only concern would be sealing. Its been to long for me to recall accurately how the separator sits on the block but I know the there is a green O-ring for the other hole, not sure how it will seat if you lost the rubber piece that previously held the return line? Check out Stealthfti's scholarly discussion of such things here: http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/pcv

Thanks, I did not find any oring at all (mabe that was one of my oil leaks) just concerened about getting the remaining pieces out.

I recall that return hose/pipe being secured to the block with a metal clamp held by a single bolt.

And I think it's more than just a drain path, because the diagram on Bentley page 170-shows it fully immersed below the level of the oil in the pan. Which tends to suggest that leaving it open might compromise the oil separator operation in some way.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Morning Bruce
I have studied the topic and even posted here last year looking for more definitive answers. I cant find it now but I seem to recall Stealthfti mentioning it being removeable, somewhere on his excellent site. I would surmise it is lowered into the oil to prevent it from being exposed to the open pressurized atmosphere of the crank case which would prevent oil from being able to drip easily downward to the bottom of crankcase? I would also surmise that absent the tube, the larger orifice on the drain side of the separator(again w/no narrow drain tube) would then allow the oil to go down via gravity? I cant think of any reason why removing it would alter the functionality....your thoughts?
Matt

"I would also surmise that absent the tube, the larger orifice on the drain side of the separator(again w/no narrow drain tube) would then allow the oil to go down via gravity? I cant think of any reason why removing it would alter the functionality....your thoughts?"

Hey Matt,

My first thoughts agreed with yours, but then I got to thinking that if that tube didn't have some purpose, they could have just used a short stub hose or some kind of o-ring.

But it now seems to me that Volvo must have found good reason not to simply leave a hole there, and went to the trouble of the uniquely long, clamped tube.

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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Just my 2 cents
I THINK the tube is to prevent splash back up into the Separator from the spinning Crank.
Without it might get the Separator dirty sooner but more importantly I would worry about Gasketting the Separator at that second hole. I wonder if a coat hanger with a hook bent in the end will be able to run down the center of the tube and hook the bottom. then wiggle it up and out.

The 'O' ring that you think is missing from the fist hole is surely stuck to the bottom of the separator disguised as part of the plastic separator.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

Thanks for your input, I was thinking about the coathanger thing too, will try it tonight if I get home in time to work on it. Will let you know how it works.

Do you know if the drain can be pulled out the hole in the block, I have read that it requres pulling the pan...

"Do you know if the drain can be pulled out the hole in the block,"

What would that buy you? You couldn't get a new one in and clamped anyhow. The overall length is about 12.25" and it's not a straight tube. It goes straight down only about 2", then angles off maybe 25° for about 3", then turns straight down again. I think the clamp holds this lower section.

I doubt if a few pieces of hardened rubber in the pan would cause trouble. Maybe you could even snag some bits out on an oil change. I'm tempted to say just let it be and do what you can to monitor for seal leakage etc. If you decide you need one, the drain "hose" # is 1301696 and is currently $17.38 from Tasca, plus their usual $10 shipping. Or I think I have a used one I could look up.

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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

That is now my plan,leave it as is and hope for no leaks.We will see...

Hopefully someone who has had one out recently will chime in but as I recall there was some type of rubber'ish O-ring/clip that held the return line fixed to the block?