Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I've always thought it was kinda nutty that they put a solid cowl panel and so little access to the area that stops up with leaves and debris on the 240's.
Maybe they don't have pine needles in Sweden.
Anyway, I know about the rubber plugs on the inside and the one on the rear.
I've used water, compressed air, vacuum, you just can't get that bed of what feels like nice moist potting soil from the bottom of the rocker.
How do you clean yours? Do you treat them with anything? Am I the only one tempted to dump some 30wt in there and put up with it dripping for a few weeks for the sake of them not rusting?








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I got the "snow caps," I think they are called. Maybe from ipd? Way too pricey, but they do seem to keep stuff out of the cowl vent, both leaves and ice/snow, while still allowing ventilation on the road.

Trying to sneak a screen in there seems like a good idea.

Or buying a 740, with removable cowl? ;-)








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I've seen the snow caps, it's on my list.
Had a 740. A manual trans turbo wagon at that, like the 240 much much
better. :)








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Back to 200 and 700 :-) 200 1986

Hmmm. We now have several 700s (don't ask how many run) and a 245.
Apples and oranges, I think.

But if you have extra time (smile), I'd like to hear why you enjoy the 200!
Headroom? The feel of a tractor?








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Back to 200 and 700 :-) 200 1986

It's.. a long story. Call it a comedy or errors maybe.
I bought the car all the volvo guys wanted, a black, turbo, manual trans, wagon with 130K or so on it and good service history with a clean carfax and a shiny new engine harness. It had a rear main seal leak, original suspension that was tired but not shot, lazy overdrive (m46) and an exhaust manifold gasket leak big time. I drove it home twenty miles, leaked three quarts of oil out, covered my buddy driving behind me with the stuff. I pulled the exh mani and replaced the gaskets, pulled the trans and observed enough crank thrust wear that the rear flange of the crank had ate into the aluminum housing that holds the rear main seal. It was astounding how much play it had. I was thoroughly discouraged and couldn't believe the legendarily reliable B230 would be succeptable to this, as it turns out it's a crappy design and the thrust load from the clutch makes it worse, the auto's usually get away with it long enough for something else to crap out. So I got a motor from a 90 model, larger rods or some such, it's been awhile. Put new rod bearings in while it was out, recon'd the head and replaced every single thing under hood you could name that wears out, all of it. Put it back together, after re-sealing the trans and a new clutch of course, and new drive shaft wear parts, etc, etc, and met the next B230 deficiency. Did I mention I had to BORROW a car during all this time since the wagon was supposed to be a daily driver with a weekend's worth of work, and I had two other "project" cars? It was more than a little embarrassing. Anyway: Piston slap.
Ungodly, piston slap. Piston slap that had people for as long as I owned the car complimenting me on my diesel Volvo. That kind of piston slap. I swallowed that in time, sort of, and set about to renew the brakes and suspension, using Sachs gas dampers and poly bushes where were recommended and overload springs in the rear to fix the sag. I never did get it to quit thunking the damn driveshaft on take-off. New everything, nothing bent, shimmed the center support up and down, nada. I think altering the pinion angle with adjustable torque rods in the rear might have helped but they weren't cheap at the time and I was fed up. Five grand easy and I had a car you couldn't put a good load in the rear or 4 people without having to explain why it felt like there was a mad monkey beating on the underside of the car leaving a stoplight. Otherwise, it stopped and handled well enough but it just never had very good manners. I have jokingly referred it to a thinly veiled 1/2 ton Swedish pickup truck more often than not. I traded it off for a very original 117K mile W114 chassis 73 Mercedes 280(and lost my rear monetarily) that does have proper road manners and get's half the MPG, and haven't looked at the wagon again since, though till recently it was owned by a close friend and served him impeccably(since most of the damn car was new). I think I expected too much of it in retrospect, it was never going to be a BMW or Mercedes wagon, it was a Volvo, which cost half what this 280 did new and for good reason. Lesson learned. The 240 I just picked up, my 3rd one technically, one a parts car and one I gave to a significant other, is a little tank. They are technically very similar cars but the sum of the parts does not equal two identical wholes in the slightest. The interior is less pretentious in the 240, which is good because it's cheap plastic that hasn't weathered overly well just like the early 740, the paint is faded which is good since I hate waxing cars and the black 745 was quite handsome when cleaned up, and it has a hint of piston slap at idle, which is alright because it has 240K miles on it, has earned it, and is not audible a block away. It's hard to describe, but there is just something about a 240.
The only real complaint I have about it's design is the rocker rust and that whole setup, I see why they did it but it's kind of a bad idea with debris and all. I can live with that though.








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I used a garden hose jet to push whatever was deposited in each sides of the air inlet. With the car having the front wheels 6 to 12 inches higher than the back wheels will help bring all that stuff in the same place which is just in front the back wheel.

There is one rubber plug in the rear fender just front of the back wheel. I used a strong house vacuum cleaner to suck everything that could be. A reducer hose is needed to fit in that hole. If it is flexible you have a bonus. Most of the time dirt and debris get to plug the hose but just bring it out and clean it.

I wait at least one week and spray grease rust-proofing. I repeat the anti-rust about every 3 years.

I never had rust holes in the 1981 (525k km) and the 1982 (350k km) which I drive right now.








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I use the white magnetic plastic they sell at Home Depot for vents covers. It cuts with scissors and they stick like glue. I leave them on most of the time because the kids just use the recirculating AC but they store outside one on the other in between the vents when I want fresh air.

I've never had one blow off yet.








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

Try an internet search for automotive rust prevention. I have seen some kits that use a wax/oil solution to protect rockers and other places. The kits come with hoses and spray nozzels.








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

I did what you did,a very good cleaning.Then I made some screens from some black plastic mesh and covered the cowls on the outside.My screens are held in place with black electrical tape.No more leaves and the air still gets in since the product is a mesh.I have this on all my 240s.








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How do you clean and/or protect your rockers? 200 1986

Remove the interior plugs and suck out, wipe out, scrape out, what you can. Oil the inside.

Keep the weep holes clear.

To prevent leaves etc. from entering the rockers, you could shove an oily rag to the front. Or cut in at the front before the front door, by or under the fender, and insert a plate to block up entry. Opening a hole before that to allow leaves and water exit.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.







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