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Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

My '95 940 (non-turbo) leaks pretty good from the main seal. My mechanic gave me a great price to replace the seal. However, he insists he should also replace the PCV oil trap at the same time, claiming it might be dirty and causing the main seal leak.

2 Questions:
1) Is there a straightforward way to diagnose a bad oil trap box? I tried the "blow" test, connecting a hose to the top of the trap and blowing and feeling the air come up through oil pour cap. Does that mean I'm good or can the other port be clogged?

2) Can I remove/replace the oil trap myself? I've read the FAQ and some claim it can be replaced without too much trouble. Others say you really should remove the intake manifold. Honestly, I don't see how you can access it without removing the manifold. Anybody have experience with this on a 940? I'm somewhat intimidated by the idea of removing the manifold. Should I be?

Thanks,

Andy








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    Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

    The blow test is not 100%.

    On my 200 ( I know you wer looking for 900 guys)...I had slow leaky seals and I could easily blow through. After pulling and cleaning the Separator leaks went away.
    I did pull teh intake. it's seemed easy on the 200. all teh gas lines stay connected. Unblot the Intake and rock it up.
    Removing that manifold keeps you out of trouble. the Heater hose needs to be persuaded a bit and you can't see that with the manifold in the way.
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html








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    Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

    A 1995 oil trap probably needs replacement just for age. I've replaced two which had holes in the top. The plastic doesn't last forever. When an oil trap has a hole in it, you smell a distinctly hot oil smell in the car when the engine is running, and especially with the hood up.

    As Herb wrote, you don't need to remove the intake manifold, although you may find it easier to replace the oil trap if you do. I don't remove the intake manifold, even to replace the late style oil trap. Two 12mm head bolts hold the oil trap in place. If your car has EGR, you'll have to remove the EGR tube and then remove the nut on the EGR valve to move it out of the way, in order to access the two 12mm bolts.
    --
    john








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      Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

      Seems like good advice. I'll try moving the EGR first and then see how much access there is. If it still looks bad, i'll resort to removing the manifold.

      Is this little bugger the EGR?

      http://i43.tinypic.com/mjln9f.jpg









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        Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

        That is the Idle Air Controller, (IAC).
        --
        john








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          Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

          OK - I guess I'll need to move/remove it never-the-less.

          I see the EGR now. Yes, that bugger is in the way too. It is connected by metal tubing to the intake manifold. What's the best way to remove it?








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            Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

            Remove the EGR tube. The tube nuts are 7/8". Then remove the nut, which holds the EGR valve the the bracket, 1" as I remember. Then remove the two bolts which hold the EGR tube the the intake manifold. The EGR valve can them be moved to the left, and out of the way of the two 12mm bolts holding the oil trap to the block.

            Don't try to remove the tube (connecting to the intake) on the top of the EGR valve, just unbolt the top end as I wrote above. The bottom end will probably be frozen in place, and the EGR valve can be moved, or removed, with the tube still attached. There is a wire connecting to it, and you may want to disconnect it. No, I don't have any pictures this time.
            --
            john








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              Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

              Thanks. That helps a lot and answers my other question about how to remove the manifold - if I resort to that. Sounds like I won't have to.

              Does this photo show the 2 bolts connecting the EGR to the manifold that you were talking about?









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    Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

    I would suggest you take the time and remove the intake. It is not that complcated and gives alot of room to work and prevent mistakes. Read up on the procedures and cautions. You will have access to a number of hoses that you should likely replace, including the heater hoses. There are many cheap parts you can take care of and learn alot about the top of your engine
    --
    89 240 Wagon 217K, 94 940 185K








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      Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

      Removing the manifold seems straightforward, but I haven't found much in the way of procedures. On AllData, the only advice is draining the coolant. Didn't find much in the FAQ - any other sources?

      Looking at it, the only immediate concern is how to disconnect the metal tube the runs from the top to a union below. Where is best to dis-engage that? From the top (2 bolts) or from the union below? Will it require a new o-ring/gasket to reconnect?

      Here is an image showing the tube. It is the aluminum tube running out to the left and then down.

      Image and video hosting by TinyPic









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    Rear main seal leak and PCV oil trap / breather box question 900

    He's giving you good advice-- a clogged oil separator box is probably the #1 cause for rear main failure. In fact, replacing it will sometimes stop the oil leak (my '92 945T hasn't dripped on the driveway ever since I cleaned the separator).

    You can remove the separator box with the intake in place-- I've done a few. I used a bunch of extensions and a universal and worked from between the intake runners from above. It's only 2 bolts (12mm, I think).

    I have found that it is easier if you remove the idle air valve and the throttle body to give yourself more room to work and better sightlines. It's also a good time to clean both.

    You can either clean the old oil separator box (which takes time) or replace it (there have been complaints about the quality of aftermarket parts). In either case replace the o-ring.

    Good luck!







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