Alright as i didn't provide enough info to fill everyone in here to help me i will do so now.


The car i got the motor from was my 92 940 Turbo that i bought for $375 awhile ago.Ironic that i bought the car for the motor and trans ehh?

So anyway i brought the 940 home threw on a .50 trim eBay turbo.Ran 15-20 psi thru it for some time.Then the car suffered a car fire from a faulty injector o ring.And that fire took out the main engine harness and anything in between.

So i thought well the 940 is pretty much screwed and i got alot of free time on my hands so what the hell?So i started on pulling the motor out of the 9 the same day as i got the engine hoist.Long story short had the swap done in a day.

I also swapped out the Aux shafts to run the block mount dizzy.And i also swapped the timing belt out as i knew i had to re time it all.But i didn't bother to think that me ripping off the covers and the back cover would matter.

So i pretty much screwed myself over basically.

Heres whats in the car currently..

1.N/a computers (till i get it running right then ill switch over)
2.N/a injectors (this set up is just to diagnose my problems less fuel = less oil changes till i fix the problem)
3.N/a AMM

This set up came off the car when i pulled the old motor which ran like a champ previous to this.

I have a timing gun as well.I have tired numerous timing set ups and it always runs the same.I am more then likely a tooth off still.

It just runs like crap below 3500 and past that it just comes to life and is extremely healthy.And theres a ton of blue smoke out of the exhaust which i think is caused by fuel getting into the crank case.This is the 4th time in 2 months that i have had to change the oil out from gas coming out of the breather port.

Now i was thinking that the reason why i might be off a tooth is i never too info effect that the motor is on a slant.So that would explain why my timing would be off.

So heres what im going to try tomorrow as it looks correct to me

Cam @ center of valve cover
Aux with rotor facing notch in the housing
Crank @ 10 o'clock

If anyone has a idea of where my timing should be id greatly apperciate it.Just go off the face of a clock and i should be golden.

Im pretty much over my nasty cold that i have had for a month now so im going full bore tomorrow at 8-am till dark to get this bastard done.

Thanks!

:-D

IF the B230f's marks are the same as a B230ft's, (I don't see why they wouldn't be) then this ought to help:

http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.htm

good luck,
Charlie

With these pictures and Without a timing mark on the intermediate shaft do what Art suggested on Jan 1, 10.
Dan

Happy New Year

1. Make sure the flywheel or flexplate was installed correctly. The spot on the index ring where two holes are missing should line up with the starter pinion when #1 cylinder is at TDC. This is the reference for base ignition timing, not the dizzy. It can be off one bolt (45 degrees) and still run, sort of, so if the flywheel was off of the motor, suspect it.

2. Find and set the crank at exact TDC for #1 using the picture. The index is cast in the seal carrier, not dependent on a plastic cover. Or feel TDC through the plug hole. One tooth off is not acceptable.

3. Line up the cam. The sprocket index mark belongs directly opposite a path to the crank, just like the arrow or string in the various pictures show. It would be 12:00 if the motor wasn't mounted on a slant. One tooth off is not acceptable.

4. Line up the I-shaft. This final setting ensures spark will be delivered to the correct plug over the range of computer-determined ignition timing. Count 44 teeth on the belt between the mark on the cam sprocket and the mark on the I-shaft sprocket. If you start with the belt removed, this 44-tooth distance is indicated by the single stripes on the outer belt surface. One tooth off is not acceptable.


5. Double check the distributor, in case someone had it removed. The rotor will point toward #1 terminal and a notch on the distributor housing.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

So you have a 92 940 Turbo engine in a 89 240?

The 940 harnesses were burnt up so I assume you are using the 89 engine and ignition wire harnesses?

I would think the harnesses are different and this may be the root problem but let others chime in on this. You will need to run the turbo ECU and ICU, you may need to get good harnesses from another 940 turbo.

Dan

Hmm i've never heard that the wiring harness might be different.The only difference i can find is that this harness has a cold start injector set up on it.And the 940 never had that.So i bypassed the cold start just by unplugging it heck we don't need that crap in Florida lol.


I'm finishing the drive train up today then ill re time it to those exact specs and see what happens.I'll cross my fingers in hopes that it will run right.

Thanks for the info!

Yes i know ill swap over to the turbo ecu's and my other injectors once i get it running correctly.

Here you go, taken directly from Mitchell:

CO exhaust content 0.6%
CO limits Ώ] 0.4 - 0.8%
Timing ΐ] 12°BTDC
Idle RPM 750 ±20
Ώ] Check upstream of catalytic converter with oxygen sensor disconnected.
ΐ] Timing can be checked only, no adjustments are possible.


That should do it, and it sounds like you're off a tooth or two timing-wise.

Good luck on completing what I've always wanted to do to a 240.

Well now i feel like a retard.I guess in the rush of things i forgot about the 1st spacer/key way thing that goes behind the main pulley would play a role in this.

I just witnessed it jumped 3-4 teeth on each gear after i just set it and the belt was snug as could be.I have the main pulley off and the belts now i just gotta find that little spacer.

Haha this explains why its doing this crap.


Thanks for the info guys!

This has been a month battle and it now comes down to this stupid little spacer/washer.

Should be done tomorrow since then it will actually hold timing.

:-D

And yes this has been a swap i always wanted to do since i got into these cars :-D.

There is a key on the crankshaft pulley for the timing belt that you most likely sheared off, you will need a new pulley.
Dan

I checked everything just that spacer is missing that goes behind the pulley.I just gotta find it and slap it all back together.

Time will tell tomorrow.But im 99.9% sure that it will be fixed finally :-D.I bet this whole time its been jumping timing and i never took it into effect as the belt felt snug on all the pulleys.But i guess it slips some way without that spacer.

That "spacer" as you call it has nothing to do with anything except keeping the belt on the sprocket. You may have sheared off the little "nub" on the front of the sprocket that keys it to the recess in the rear of the pulley hub. [See the 2 pics below.]

The t-belt drive will be OK, but if the belt pulley is "creeping" the timing notch can't be trusted.

That usually happens from not tightening the pulley bolt to spec:
stage 1 - 44 ft lbs
stage 2 - another 60° rotation ("angle tighten")
[This is really tight. I need a pipe on my breaker bar to get that 60°]
[I use the rope trick to lock the crankshaft for bolt loosening and tightening.]

B230 Crank Sprocket



Crank Pulley (B230)



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Let me know how it works out for you. How hard of a job was this to do anyways? It looks pretty simple.