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Replacement of Heater Core Hoses 900

posted by  someone claiming to be 960 Brickster on  Thu Jan 21 01:11 CST 2010 [RELATED]

I have had some coolant loss lately on my 95 960 sedan, about 1/2 litre every couple of weeks. Yesterday I had a pressure test done, and it seems the heater core hoses by the firewall need replacing.

Is this a tricky job? I understand there is also a gauge, bot sure if it should be replaced too. Any tips here?

Are the clamps standard worm drive clamps or are they the proprietary Volvo ones that need the special tool? Appreciate the help.







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    Replacement of Heater Core Hoses 900

    posted by  spook on  Thu Jan 21 01:35 CST 2010
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:06 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Dear 960 Brickster,

    May this find you well. DO NOT EVEN START THE ENGINE, UNTIL YOU HAVE REPLACED THE HEATER CORE HOSES.

    If a heater hose rupture, the immediate loss of coolant will ruin the head and possibly the entire engine.

    I doubt that heater hose replacement on a 960 is very much harder than on a 940. The hoses are at the back of the engine, where there's little room.

    While on 940s, the heater control valve is in the engine bay, on the inlet hose to the heater core, the the parts diagram for a '95 960 in Volvo VADIS (the now-superseded dealer parts/repair database), does not show a heater control valve in the engine bay. The heater control valve may be located just inside the cabin (under the dashboard). Be sure to replace the heater control valve. If the heater control valve fails, immediate coolant loss occurs.

    The clamps (Part #943472) are screw-operated. They have a 7mm hex fitting, which has a slot cut into it, so a flat-blade screwdriver can also be used.

    Hope this helps.

    Yours faithfully,

    Spook








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      Replacement of Heater Core Hoses 900

      posted by  someone claiming to be 960 Brickster on  Tue Jan 26 15:11 CST 2010 [RELATED]

      Well I had the local Volvo dealer replace the hoses. I could have done it myself, but I am on the road a lot this week, and did not want to take a chance. Although the work was done properly - I hope - they soaked me for $315.

      When the work was done I checked the reservoir tank and it was pretty much to the top at the cap. I asked the mechanic to drain some, which he did. Would this not unduly increase pressure on the system and seals? Now it is to the top of the word 'hot.' Where is the correct cold measure for this car, and how sensitive is it to this? I have always kept it between cold and hot and the cold level.

      Any follow up a good idea here like a pressure test, or should I just monitor the fluid level? Let me know.







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