I was reading VADIS & they said to tighten the radius rod bushing end @ the frame after lowering the car to the ground & rocking it a bit. Now the problem I have is 1. I don't fit under the car. 2. It is pretty hard to pull 88 ftlb ±22 on a torque wrench @ arms length & a shallow angle.

I thought about lowering the front wheel on to a block of sorts but that isn't really loading the suspension in the same way.

Any opinions?

ian

I usually just the control arm until the car just starts to lift, give the car a bounce, then I tighten things up to spec. Repeat on the other side.

For rear axle stuff, just support the rear axle. Give a bnounce and torque it up.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

they want you to place the suspension under load. you can use cribbing under each wheel http://myconstructionphotos.smugmug.com/photos/8509507-S-1.jpg to accomplish the same thing.

as for torque specs just tighten it until it feels right. i have 3 torque wrenches and seldom use them except on head bolts, rod bolts, bearing caps........things like that.

never on suspension parts or even strut mount bolts. use common sense and tighten until it feels right based on the mm of the bolt or nut.

i have seen people use torque wrenches on little water pump bolts/nuts and snap the studs right off.

I agree about the small bolts. You take a 3/8" torque wrench that is 15-18" long & it isn't hard to to pop off 6mm bolts. I use torque wrenches on the bigger stuff. I can calibrate them at work. Even the cheaper stuff I found to be ±1ftlb.
Thanks ian