Just thought you might be interested in my recent experience joining the world of 240 driver/maintainers, as it sounds that you're likely to do.

Late September, I bought my first 240. It's a 1992 240GL sedan w/ an almost perfect interior visually, but a lot of the usual buzzes and rattles. I knew up on the test drive it had some issues (leaking exhaust manifold at the head and at the header, extreme pulsing in the brakes), but it had relatively low miles (136K) and was fairly solid. Some rust in the corners of the doors, but nothing major underneath. The dealer (a young college kid w/ a newly-obtained dealer license) was asking $1395, and I offered him $900. We settled on $1000; I though I did pretty well.

I'm still happy, but there's lots of things to do to bring a potentially neglected car back up to snuff. In hindsight, I probably could have beat him down another couple hundred. I've spent about another $900 in parts (some of which were NOT necessary, but I'm about to send the car to another state w/ my son so I replaced a bunch of things that MIGHT eventually need replacing rather than saddle him w/ potential problems in the next year or so), and maybe 20 hours of work. New front rotors/calipers/pads, one brake line, new ABS tone wheels on both front hubs (rusted to crap), and new studs on one hub (some gorilla had stripped them w/ an impact wrench). New engine mounts. New exhaust manifold gasket, studs, nuts, manifold-to-header gasket, studs, nuts. New intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket. New heater return coolant pipe. That was all stuff that needed doing immediately. I've also replaced all the hoses, fuel filter, air filter, airbox thermostat(frozen), preheat hose (missing). None of that was immediately critical, but a good idea. Timing belt, front seals, water pump, ATF filter and fluid change. Probably a couple other things I haven't mentioned, but you get the idea. The car was up on stands while I worked on it a couple hours each afternoon for three weeks. Now, it runs like a champ but I still should start in on the suspension; it's pretty shot.

Sound like bad news? Not really. What other car could you do all of that yourself, actually enjoy doing it, and still spend less than $2000 total including buying the car outright? The other folks are dead on.. check for rust. Pretty much anything else can be fixed by us regular folk.

If the car is fairly rust free, starts well, runs fairly well, stops when you step on the brake pedal, and turns in the same direction you're turning the steering wheel.. well... you'll be able to take care of what it needs.

FWIW, I'm actively looking for another one already. Any leads on a '91-93 240 GL? (grin)

Best wishes,

Barry

Hi Kevin,

Have someone check it for rust. Chassis/suspension parts, body behind the mud flaps, around the windshield, rocker panels, and floorboards. Lift the carpets between the sill covers and the seats. My advice is have that done by a professional, because love will surely blind you to these flaws, and Northern Indiana makes any 1990 car a risk. For $1400 you don't want a rust bucket, and that is the only thing that will put a 240 down.

Hope you find a keeper!
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Those who race through life finish first. (Darrel Hunsbedt)

If it runs good, looks good inside and out at $1400 it's a deal. Look for rust and plan on $500 to $1000 the first year to get it in great shape. The more you work on it the more you will appreciate it.
Dan

I think your best bet if you like this car, as already stated, is to see if it has any service records, and take it to a good indie repair shop and let a good mechanic have it say the equivalent of "okay, now cough gently." There are a ton of things on these cars that can cost an inordinate amount of money in comparison to the total purchase price or market value, whichever is lower. I personally think the only way these cars make sense any more is the ability, time, patience, tools and facility to keep them going. At the $95.00 plus parts per hour that my local garage charges, I try to keep my 3 245s out of there as much as possible. It sounds like a pretty good car from the description that you give, but don't be too surprised if you are quickly into it another $500.00 after purchase. Almost all used cars are being sold for the simple fact that another maintenance cycle is due on it, and the owner has grown tired of playing the game. For an absolute appliance, probably a Honda, Datsun, or Toyota would serve you better. For putting a smile on your face, a 240, when it is all working. is hard to beat. Good luck, and remember that this isn't the only old Volvo for sale and available. Let us know what you do!

Welcome to the BB,

The 240 is about as easy a car to work on as you can find. Being a rear wheel drive almost everything under the car can be accessed pretty quickly. There is very good documentation out there for almost any self repair job. If not you ask the BB and you can get all sorts of assistance from web sites that members have posted to where to get parts for the best price. If not for this forum, I would have gotten rid of my car three years ago.

As for what to look for in a 240, the first thing is rust. The cars in salt country apparently take it pretty hard on the bottom and the panels. Suggest having a pro who knows Volvos go over it and do a check. He can spot any major issues and can give you an idea what needs to be done.

As far as how good the car is in snow, I am not exactly experienced with snow. My 1986 245 wagon has been snowed on a total of three times ever. My one and only daughter was 23 years old when she saw her very first snow 2 years ago. I would point out that this is a Swedish car. You read lots of posts about snow tires and cold weather from places like Canada and Alaska. The 240 seems to be a very reliable snow car.

Good Luck,

Paul

Kevin,

I believe there is info in the 700/900 FAQ section (see drop down menu in upper right) about buying a Volvo. Even though you are talking about a 240, they are mechanically very similar cars so a lot of the info should be applicable.

Also, unless you are simply enamored with the style of the 240, you should consider a 740 or 940 as well. In my opinion, the 240 sedan is a nice looking sedan, and the 740/940 sedan is kind of homely. But, the wagons look about the same to me.

I would not be likely to pay $1400 for a 90 with 228k on it, but it is not impossible that it is a fair price. Yes, some of them go to 400k, but I believe they are the exception, not the rule. I know there are some on here who have those kind of miles, but not many. Personally, I have seen one that had over 400k, and I have owned Volvos off and on since the mid 70s.

As for snow, you need snow tires, preferably studded, on all four wheels. If you get into the newer 940s, I believe the 1041 lock up rear axle is standard equipment. I have one, but have not had it in the winter yet. I'm sure it will help. Earlier modes had an optional limited slip rear axle, but I have not seen many. They may be more common in more northern climates.

I suggest staying with the B230 single cam 8-valve engine, and for simplicity, a non-turbo. The newest car you can get with this engine is a 1995 940.

Charley

For that kind of money, a car with that sort of mileage had better be nearly perfect.. I'd definitely want to see all maintenance records, and have the car thoroughly checked out.

Yes, these cars can do a half million miles, but they are not without issues. Most folks here know their cars well enough to repair or at least diagnose problems when they happen, or more importantly, diagnose and repair problems before they break completely.

To be honest, if you have to pay a foreign car, or better.. Volvo specialist to do your work, you probably won't like a Volvo 240.. If you can do your own work.. they can be very inexpensive to maintain.

At 5000 miles/year, this could be a fine car. Would I send young drivers who generally have zero mechanical sympathy out in a quarter million mile car? I guess it depends on the kids... but be ready for those "dad.. the Volvo won't start and I don't know what to do" calls late in the night...

Get good snow tires all around, these are fine in snow. Keep in mind it's rear wheel drive. I prefer that, some folks don't. It is another thing that can get young drivers into trouble in adverse road conditions.



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-Matt I ♥ my ♂