OK Volvo geniuses, I think I've got a challenge for you... I have a 1984 Volvo 244 DIESEL (very rare as you know!) that was in great shape when I bought it 2 years ago, only has 90,000 miles on it. I love this car.... but about a year ago it began to act like it was running out of gas at odd times, especially when it was cold. This began to get worse.

Soon after that I began to smell gas fumes that intensified when the "running out of gas" symptom occurred. It runs much better on a full tank. I've changed the fuel filter and replaced most of the gas lines... to no avail. It appears to be leaking just left of the fuel filter (passenger side) of the engine... in that general area... the exact position of the leak is hard to determine. (That's where the fuel/injector pump is, right? Just found that out in Chiltons)

I haven't driven it in months because of the Diesel fumes, and Diesel mechanics here in Denver are scared of it... I would love to have my car back, any ideas Volvo experts???

Thanks so much

Mike

This sounds like the perfect motive for a V8 conversion.

Hi Mike,

I've have a good bit of experience with the D24. You say that it's leaking just to the left of the fuel filter on what I assume you mean the driver's side, which is where the filter and injection pump are. I'm kinda confused as to where exactly you're seeing the leak, but if it's anywhere under the IP, then you probably have a leaky gasket at the high pressure pump head or a shaft seal at the rear of the IP (fuel will be found toward the rear of the engine in relation to the filter).

Your car does not have an in-tank lift pump. Make sure that your fuel lines are clamped tight, your filter is screwed on tight and not clogged, and that there is no fuel leaking at any of the fuel pipes or injectors.

Does it start well? Have you run biodiesel in it before?

We'll get this thing running for you ;)

Charlie
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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

Awesome...

thanks for the wisdom Charlie!

Ok... so YES, I was running it on Biodiesel for a few months, and towards the end of that time is when the problem first started. I made that connection before because of how biodiesel can clean out the system (and it's an old car obviously), but I couldn't understand how that could make it physically LEAK.

I am not a mechanic, so I don't know any lingo, but I've troubleshooted and fixed multiple problems before so I'll try to describe in laymen's terms what's I'm seeing...

I can't actually SEE the leak, if I feel past the fuel filter and up into the IP (I think? What's an "IP?") towards the back of the engine as far as my hand can fit, that's where I can feel the fresh diesel. I'm attaching a pic that'll hopefully help.

It starts, but it takes sometime between 5-10 minutes, much longer if it's cold. When starting it acts just like it's out of fuel, then after minutes of cranking it'll sputter, then after another few minutes a big cloud of black smoke emits when she starts.

Thanks so much man

mike

The leaky shaft seal is probably not your hard starting problem. 5-10 minutes!? or did you mean seconds? Hard starting related to temperature would point to glow plugs or possibly a serious internal IP leak.

I would suggest not starting for such long periods. You will destroy your very rare starter.

For not being a mechanic, you're looking at a pretty big bite of repairs here.
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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

Mike,

Can you get a flashlight and a mirror and see the leak? It could be something as simple as a rotten return hose or a loose fitting.

IP = Injection Pump, and it is the thing where the steel hoses start on their way to the injectors. It is the diesel version of a distributor and plug wires.

Charley

Ah... this is like exclusive Volvo school... thanks.

Tried to get mirror/light to figure out the leaks exact location, but it's really tough to see back there. I'm going to get a smaller mirror and try again tomorrow.

Should I even attempt to remove some of these components so I could see back there better?

So if you started where the injectors come out of the IP, and went from there towards the back of the engine maybe a foot, that's where it seems like it's leaking. I couldn't see/feel any hoses back there honestly, but that would be awesome if that's all it was!

Thanks again Charlie

mike

Looks like you've got a leaky shaft seal. Biodiesel decomposes rubber fuel lines and the rubber seals that are likely in your injection pump (unless it was resealed within the last 8 years or so, in which case they are B100 compatible). Switching between diesel and B100 often aggravates decomposition. Hoses will start to get tacky and wet at the ends when they're on their way out. The two most likely seals that are leaking on your IP are:

-the high pressure pump head, which is what the throttle lever and return line are on (4 flathead screws hold it on). This seal can be replaced w/o removing IP but there is a very real risk of damaging the IP if you don't know what you're doing.

and...
-the shaft seal, located at the rear end of the IP behind the sprocket. This can only be replaced with the IP out. Replacing it isn't hard but removing the IP is a good bit of work. Some may say that you will need the special tools, but I have gotten away multiple times without them by either making them or just spot marking. I just got done resealing my IP and going through this whole procedure myself. I could walk you through it if you want to tackle it, but know you'd be looking a the better part of a day's work.

As for the wiring harness: don't bother buying a new one. Consider yourself lucky that it's a diesel with 6 wires and not a gasser with about 20. You can rebuild it very easily using 14ga. (yellow) butt splices and some 16ga wire.

Charlie
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1980 244 diesel M46 169k, my 4th 240
1985 244 DL B230 M46 170k, my 5th

Wow... thank you sir.

It's 99% likely that the seals were NOT replaced in past 8 years. I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much but your prognosis sounds spot on. Hypothetically let's say I successfully dismantle the IP and check out the seals and they are disintigrated from the B100, how hard would it be to obtain new seals? (I have called 'volvo' before and they have had none of the parts I was looking for in stock.)

If I had to guess between the two it sounds more like the second possibility, the 'shaft seal,' because of where it is leaking (the rear of the IP, kind of by the back timing belt.)

Could it still be the 'high pressure pump head' if it's still leaking back there? (That's a much easier fix, it sounds like)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like the job will most likely be a bit out of my reach mechanically. If that's the case I might employ a friend of mine who is a fairly competent volvo mechanic but knows nothing about this particular model (just like everybody else, apparently!)

Man, I don't know what you would like in return but if you could walk me through it that would be fantastic.

thanks

mike

You can get seals from Bosch as a set only for the VE pump. However, the set is for the 4cyl. 1.6L pump, so there are a few extras you have to find for the 6cyl. None of this matters, though, because resealing an injection pump isn't for a green mechanic or your Volvo mechanic buddy, 'cause the D24 to a Volvo gasser is like Japanese to an American.

There is a guy in Maine who specializes in this engine that will reseal it for you for $250 if I remember correctly. You can get in contact with him on our D24/T email list, which will be a lot more help than brickboard when it comes to a diesel (no offense, brickboard). His name is Tom Bryant.

You can sign up for the list at https://elist.tufts.edu/wws. Type in D24 in the search at the bottom, and then click on subscribe at the left of the next page.

If you can get the pump off, then he can fix it.

Charlie
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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

So... this is where I'm at in this adventure,

Got the fuel lines, accelerator assembly, vacuum pump and all the metal injectors removed, then was met with THIS odd bolt... Chilton's was fairly useless.

Do I need a 'special tool' for this bolt? Here's a picture of me pointing to the weird bolt at the bottom (sorry it's not very well taken, I took it with my laptop and it's hard to fit in there!)

Any suggestions Charlie or any other volvo geniuses?

mike

Whoa boy...I'm not too sure where you're heading. I thought we discussed that it was your shaft seal that was leaking. That odd-shaped bolt does require a modified 13mm socket to remove, but you shouldn't touch it unless you're planning on rebuilding the IP, which you're not. It looks like you removed the cold start device, too...and the throttle linkage. I hope you marked how all that went together, because it's important. I suggest you put back everything you took apart and try to start it to make sure continuing this endeavor is worth it. Use a vacuum pump, like a MityVac, to pull fuel to the IP via the return line (center of your pic). IF you can get it started, then we'll try this again.

Replacing the shaft seal requires almost no disassembly of the IP itself, just removing it as a whole from the car.




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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

Hmmm...

I'm really confused then. I did mark where things were when I took them off, probably not as well as I should have perhaps, but that's it? I'm out of luck?

I basically was going by the Chilton's "removing the IP" steps, so I'm confused as to why I was so off base... if all that removal (cold start and accelerator linkage) was unnecessary, and Chilton's is full of it, and now it's all for nothing anyway...

freakin' bummer.

You're not S.O.L. yet...just put it all back together, see if it starts and runs like normal, and then:

-Turn the engine over to TDC on #1 (a notch on the IP sprocket will line up with a prominent notch on the IP bracket and body
-mark the rear belt in relation to a point on both the IP and cam sprockets.
-mark the cam sprocket location in relation to the valve cover
-remove the injector pipes, and then take small pieces of foil or something and cover all 6 injectors' inputs, as well as the outputs on the IP
-proceed to remove the IP WITHOUT dismantling it. All you need to remove from the IP are the two fuel lines, the injector fuel pipes, the wire to the fuel solenoid and the throttle spindle that the accelerator and cruise control cables are attached to (3-10mm bolts). Holding the IP bracket on are (3) 15mm bolts between the IP and block, and (1) 13mm bolt at the lower passenger front of the IP

Get that far and then re-post.
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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

Nice, thanks for the heads up and encouragement.

So, here's the scoop. My car hasn't "started and ran normally" in 10 months. As I said in an earlier post it takes sometime 5-10 full minutes of cranking to get her started (bad on the starter, I know, but I was out of options)

My thought is this: if my car had a really hard time starting beforehand, even if I reattach correctly everything I removed it might be close to impossible to start because of the pump having to not only deal with the loss of pressure from the leak but also filling up the lines with fuel, etc.

Is there a way I can proceed (in faith basically that it'll pan out in the end) WITHOUT reattaching everything? The way Chilton's said to proceed? (damn Chilton's...)

All your instructions you gave made sense to me except for the first, TDC stands for "Top Dead Center" I learned, "Turn the engine over to point #1" means turn the ignition key to the first notch? Yeah man, if you could clarify if it's possible for me to proceed without reinstalling EVERYTHING and getting her started, and elaborate on that first point about the IP bracket lining up, that'd be awesome.

thanks so much Charlie

mike

Fine, just put the IP back together except for the few things that I said to remove, and proceed to remove the IP. Just realize that you may be doing a lot of work for nil...

You need a MityVac or equivalent to pull fuel to the IP when you get ready to restart the car. They're $30 from harbor freight and infinitely handy.

Turn the engine to cylinder #1 is what I'm saying. There is a notch on the IP sprocket that, when lined up with a large notch at the rear of the IP, will put you at TDC on cylinder #1. Turn the engine over with a 27mm socket, not the starter.
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1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240

Hey man, just to be clear, thank you so much for all the knowledge you've given... much appreciated.

So, call me crazy but I'm just going to have at it, go slow with my Chilton's and then optimistically reseal the IP with gasket maker. I just can't justify spending another $300 on a car that's impossible to find parts for and might not even be a permanent fix towards making it run...

So for better or worse I'm going to say a little prayer and dive in. If you could walk me through any tough spots on this endeavor that would be freakin awesome man.

thanks
mike

It is most unfortunate that VW (the manufacturer of your engine) didn't build these engines as stoutly as we all would have liked. They built them to a certain price point and they were used in light delivery trucks and some were obviously sold to Volvo. You may be at just the tip of the iceberg here as far as the maintenance needs of your engine (seals, gaskets, hoses, etc., etc.) and sound like you are at a very steep part of your learning curve wrench-bending wise as well. If your go for it approach doesn't get you where you want to go, and you like Volvos as cars, there are a bunch of gas powered ones out there that get reasonably good mileage, you can find parts for, and may suit your current mechanical expertise better. Just steer clear of any gas V-6 cars, as they share similar traits with the Diesel as far as being mostly a red-headed stepchild for parts and maintenance support.

Thanks man,

Yeah, I've had 2 regular gas 240's that were awesome, and my dad got 400K out of his 240 as well, so I might be thinking along those lines at some point. I've fixed a few major problems on this diesel with this sort of 'jury rigging' (used model airplane fuel lines to fix the diesel lines, and that was 8 months ago!) so wish me luck and we'll see how it goes... :)

mike

Good luck indeed. One of the problems with these old cars is figuring out when to stop pouring energy, money, and time into the little darlings.

yeah,

that's where I'm at right now man. A little "come to Jesus" moment with my Volvo... might not end nicely....

mike

Yes they are rare and experience with them is even rarer. If you have an in tank pump like the gassers do part of you problem might be the rubber hose between the pump and the sending unit. From the picture it also looks like the wire harness needs replacing with a newer non biodegradable harness. Check here or ebay for a harness. http://www.davebarton.com/volvoharnesses.html
Dan

Nice, thanks so much Dan.

I know I need to replace a few things definitely, but honestly with this problem I've half give-up on this car so if I can fix it then I'll start doing more maintenance. I'll check out the website...

thanks

mike

ps: Here's a pic of where it's leaking (basically as far as my hand will fit up there) if you have any ideas

That looks like the infamous degrading wire harness?
good luck with the diesel,there is a reason they are so RARE.

Yeah... I'm realizing. Thanks man.

mike