Ryan is right, per his two ways.

I just removed my right rear caliper by removing the caliper and then unscrewing it from the hose.

I also had to remove the rubber brake line leading to the caliper (long story) and had a hell of a time with the brass nipple (copper line) because it was starting to round off with my open end wrench. I used my hooked Vise-Grip (for hex heads) and, wow, it worked! Luckily, both heads were able to tighten up nicely with open end wrenches.

Really two ways to go:

Remove the hose on the car side, then it's simple to turn the hose to get it off the caliper.

The other way is to pull off the caliper then twist the caliper as you unscrew it from the brake hose. :-)

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Here's what the green book says (my version):

1) Open both bleeders and fit hoses to catch fluid expelled in next step.

2) "Lock brake pedal in depressed position." I made a pedal prop from scrap wood, which I braced against seat adjuster bar.
[As long as the pedal is held depressed, no fluid will escape from line(s) to be opened.]

3) "Disconnect brake hoses from pipes."
Meaning the fittings on the inner fender brackets where hoses meet hard lines. My prayers are with you at this point.

Clean off as best as you can and soak the fittings with your favorite snake oil before to attempt to the disconnect. Use of proper fitting "flare wrenches" is essential.

As a last resort on my ABS 940, I cut the (single) hard line after the fitting, so I could take everything to the bench vise. There I found that the fitting had been put together with red thread sealer (in Halifax). After a lot of sweat at the caliper end, I reconnected the hose to a salvaged section of pipe and line fitting using a 3/16" ID compression union—a method I've used for years on 240s with absolutely no problems.
(See photo. Ignore rust.)



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

It has been a long time so bear with me.

Are you saying that on the flex line at the caliper, not at the hard line to flex line attachment, there are two places to put a wrench? If so, this should be a flare nut (on the flex line) and a "nipple" (to use a plumbing term) on the caliper. The nipple should be held with the back-up wrench so that it does not move and the flare nut, on the felx line side, should be the one to rotate. As soon as you break it loose with about 1/4 turn the nut will swivel without turning the flex line.

The only time I see this arrangement at the caliper is when a universal line has been used to replace the old flex line...usually with an upgrade to braided lines. That does not mean it is the only instance that such a thing occurs.

If I have the arrangement mixed up, please give me a better description and I will try to help.