I just purchased a 1993 240 Classic 1500/1600, one owner, all service done by Volvo dealer since new, 131,000 miles.

Check engine light is on.....

I pulled the codes from the car and they are:

113 - Fuel injectors
232 - Lambda adjustment and heated O2 sensor lean mixture part throttle 94 up

All new exhaust system to include cat is on the car back to the rear muffler.

I did see that the line going into the front of the fuel pressure regulator had a big crack in it and could possible have something to do with the code. Short of that I have done nothing with the car. I will pick it up tomorrow, but wanted to get a jump on what I need to do.

The idle is real rough, but the car run good at highway speed.

I plan to replace:

all of the vacumn hoses
new plugs
new dist cap etc
replace plug wires
flush trans and use syn
flush oil and use syn
flush rad

Thanks for any help you can pass along on the above....and BTW I paid $1500 for the car!!!!!

I want to thanks everyone for their help and I am back 1-1-1. Finally had to replace the O2 sensor with a 13913 sensor and that took care of it finally. At least with all of the other things done, I know now it should be good to go as DD.

One other thing though, I noticed while starting the engine from cold, the E fan comes on right away. I wold think this would come on when the temp gets be a certain temp. Any ideas on what to check for?

Thanks a million guys....I really appreciate the help,

Frank

Well....I am wits end. The check engine light is on again and the codes are 113 and 232. Same as before.

The following has been done so far:
TPS replaced
AMM replaced
FPR replaced
IAC replace (rpms up upon start then back down nicely. Idles perfectly)
Black box under intake removed and cleaned
Vacumn hoses replace
Air filter replaced
New plugs at .28 Old plugs blackened and sooty on the ends
New Dist and rotor Old cap and rotor shot
Flame trap cleaned
New 13913 O2 sensor replaced (two white one black spiced/crimped to original two white one black wires. (does it make a difference which white is to which white?) Old O2 sensor was black and sooty
Chinese water torture and seafoam engine. Runs terrific. Think the neighbors were about to call the fire dept with all of the smoke.
Cat is really new

When I clear the codes I get 1-1-1 and the check engine light goes out. Then for some reason after awhile the light comes back on and the codes are again 1-1-3 and 2-3-2.

I dont know what else to do at this point. Any ideas?

Thanks
Frank

Two easy questions:

1) Does your 93 have the big fuses attached to the battery terminal?

2) How are you clearing the codes?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors, and miss.

Sitting here with a thought to run by you...

I spliced the connections together using the blue hollow tube type and the crimped each numberouse time to make sure of the connections.

Did this with both whites and one black.

After all three were done I coated both end of the blue tube with RTV silicone sealant.

Bundled all three together and wrapped generously with electrical tape and the sprayed the entire assembly with undercoating.

Coulf the RTV sealant be conductive and should I have done the above procedure seaparately instead of doing them together in a bundle, maybe causing a conductivity problem.

Just a thought while sitting here pulling my hair out......

Frank

It sounds to me like you did a good job with the sensor replacement. I doubt it was the problem on your 93, but it is good to know it is new now.

The 113 is the CEL illuminator. I've had that many times and various causes. The book says the injectors cannot be timed such that the oxygen sensor reports a correct mixture, so all parts of the fuel management system get into the act, but so many focus on that word "injectors".

Using a meter on the sensor can give you an idea how that management system is functioning. You're looking for the voltage to regularly change between something like 0.1V and 0.9V. Using a digital meter to watch this behavior is driving in a downpour where you can only get a fuzzy glimpse of the road ahead immediately after each sweep of the wipers. A scope is needed to see the road full time.

But if that voltage does not change regularly, and the computer attempts to correct for some time, it will assume something drastic happened and set a limp-home program that essentially takes the oxygen sensor out of the picture. Now the engine management is driving blind. The wipers died. The fuel is now being managed by a computer programmer based on what the AMM, ECT, TPS, and RPM tells it, and though the engine runs, you're not likely to stay on the virtual road long, winding up in the ditch as far as air/fuel mix is concerned. The CEL tells you when you've arrived.

I've fixed 113's with manifold gaskets, oxygen sensor (mentioned that below), ECU replacement, AMM change, and most recently, a tank pump. Many others fix it by replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I'm hoping, with your laundry list, you've already got the culprit, and just need to reset that computer so it can start with a clean slate. If not, then look at that oxygen sensor voltage and see what the computer thinks at idle. The heater can be tested for operation too, by measuring its resistance at the two-pin plug after starting the car cold and immediately after turning it off from 1 minute of idling. You'll see the resistance drop as the heater cools.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

By the time a man realises that his father was right, he has a son who thinks he's wrong.

Yes big fuses at the battery and clearing codes by holding down for 5 seconds and when the light comes back on holding for another 5. I run the codes again and then I get 1-1-1 and no CEL. After awhile they come back to 1-1-3 and 2-3-2 and CEL is on.

Thanks
Frank

Hi Frank,

When you clear the codes from the OBD box you are not resetting the memory that holds the compensation (trim) the ECU made for any conditions you've since fixed.

One of those large fuses is for the fuel injection and engine management. I can't be specific about which one or how they are marked, but the idea is to pull the fuse momentarily to completely clear the codes and the adapting trim. You'll know you've done the job when the OBD returns to 111 and you did not do it with the push button. Lifting the battery terminal does just as well, but I'm trying to save your radio presets by sending you the fuse route.

It may not fix anything, but should remove all doubt your ECU is holding a radical trim adjustment in memory. And it is so easy.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Being right is highly overrated. Even a stopped clock is right twice a day.

Art I did as you suggested with pulling the fuses at the battery. Checked the codes again and 1-1-1. I have been out driving it all day, stop and go city and highway... around 60 miles, and no CEL and just got home and checked the codes again...1-1-1. Car idled and ran like a top.

You have to be a scholar....I cant tell you how much I appreciate your time and expertice on this matter. I just wish there was a way I could repay you.

Thanks again,
Frank

I'll keep a check on it and let you know any other results.

These things do have a way of coming back to bite you, so, while I concede 60 miles is a pretty good test, you might want to reserve judgment for a week or so. Sometimes the Volvo gods are smiling.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Blowing out another's candle will not make yours shine brighter.

Frank,

I think what Art was getting at is that clearing the codes with the light button only clears the codes. It does not reset the computer. You can pull a fuse to reset the computer, but I don't know which one. Art will know. You can pull the battery cable to reset the computer.

Charley

Kust pulled all of the fuses on the block on the battery. There was a blink of the light.

Ran the codes as normal and 1-1-1 and CEL is out and am leaving it running now to see if the CEL comes on.

Frank

Frank,

I don't know if you have a Bosch or a Rex Regina, so I don't know if this helps or not. Even if our systems are different, some of the codes are the same.

I have been battling codes 231 and 221 on my 1995 940 with the Bosch EZK system. The fault description for my 231 and your 232 are very similar.

I went through a similar drill as you, though I did not replace nearly as many parts. I did replace the O2 sensor, and I don't regret it since I don't know how old it was, but it did not help. This weekend I got an Air Mass Meter (AMM) from the junkyard, and I cleaned it and put it on. Yesterday I drove a little over 300 miles, and the Check Engine Light (CEL) did not come on. Prior to this, about 150 miles was the most I had managed without the light coming back on.

So, do you know for sure that the AMM you put on is good, and that it was the correct one for your car? I had mine checked by a component rebuilder, and they said it was okay. It seems they may have been wrong.

With respect to the TPS, I had some problem adjusting mine. I don't know if it is common, but my kick down cable for the trans makes a faint click as the throttle comes off the stop. It sounded just like and electric switch clicking, and I was having a tip in hesitation. So, I tried to adjust it, but couldn't get much result. With a stethoscope, I found that the kick down cable was doing the clicking, and I had moved the TPS completely out of range. That was corrected, but did not stop the CEL from coming on. It seems that the AMM, or that in combination with the O2 sensor might have fixed it. My fingers are crossed.

Charley

Mass Meter came from my other 92 240 an 016 and had 88,000 on it. Was good when taken out and replaced.

Frank

Is the FPR the relay or fuel pressure regulator? Check the vacuum hose to the regulator for gas smell if you smell it the diaphragm is bad.
Dan

Is the A/C on when you start up?
Dan

Congrats on the Classic. I have one also for about 3 years. It had 120,000 and now it's got about 150,000. No major problems.

I initially put synthetic in but now I don't bother. Not many engines wear out internally with whatever oil you use IMHO.

Never had a leak problem with the synthetic so I don't really believe the rumor about synthetic causing a leak in an older car.

Every time I get those two codes, its an AMM. Cleaning it doesn't seem to help, just replace it (with a used one).

Granted, I'd reset the codes, replace the cracked lines, look for vacuum leaks and other simple things first, but I'm betting it'll end up being the AMM.

Also, I'd be hesitant to put synthetic oil in it, but I drive a car that leaks already, so I'm probably a bit biased--I wouldn't do anything to risk increasing my leaks.

I replaced the TPS, cleaned the IAC, replaced the AMM, cleaned the flametrap, replaced FPR, sprayed around injectors with water and also the intake with no change in RPM.

I can not find the location of the O2 sensor to save me. There is a plug in front of the cat, but no sensor. It is a new exhasut system from header back to the rear muffler. I have checked the entire length of the system and cannot locate it. Could it be they didnt replace it when the change the system?

I will put it up on ramps tomorrow and see if I can see more.

Thanks for the help,

Frank

Hi Frank,

Just in case you are looking only from the right side, some cats have a test port (small plug) on that side. The oxygen sensor is around the left side of the cat, closer to the driveline. I only make this comment because I find it incredible an exhaust would be replaced knowingly eliminating the only means the computer has of reading fuel/air mixture. Peek at the cat from the driver's side.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"I've had a perfectly wonderful evening. But this wasn't it." Groucho Marx

Thanks Art and I appreciate the ehlp and yes it is on the inside of the exhaust from the passenger side.

Do you have a preference on what O2 sensor to buy and how to you hook/splice the new sensor into place.

Thanks for you help,

Frank

Hi Frank,

So far, I've only felt the need to replace one heated oxygen sensor in many years, cars, and miles. That one was contaminated from the outside by a transmission fluid leak at the output seal. In that case, I used a full length replacement I'd obtained in a very lucky auction find. If I had to buy one, I'd probably get the one for the Ford Mustang 5.0 the board members have found cheap and abundant. Then I would look for and probably use the connector Ford uses to splice into my old sensor's wiring.

Whether you go direct replacement or splice in a universal, depends mainly on your individual comfort level with automotive wiring repairs.

Thanks for asking.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A banker is someone who lends you an umbrella when the sun is shining, and who asks for it back when it start to rain.

I use the Bosch 13913 at Autozone for about $40. Cut off the Ford connector and crimp connect your Volvo connector for a perfect fit, I have done this several times with great results.
Dan

Do not forget to wrap the crimps in electrical tape, or paint them over with "liquid" electrical tape. Do not leave the bare wires or crimp splices exposed to the elements.

jorrell
--
92 245 284K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Cripmed the connections, covered both ends of crimp with sealant, generously wrapped with electrical tape, then sprayed with undercoating to protect everything.

Frank

the plug in the front of the cat is WHERE the sensor should be.

your car will run crappy and use too much gas if there is no sensor in the cat.

it appears you have found your trouble.

Thanks for the help and I found the exhaust diagram on IPD website and what O2 sensor should I get? We have Advance Auto, OReily's, Napa parts here to select from. I dont want to do a bunch of splicing.

Thanks,
Frank

Frank,

I've been down this road recently, or more correctly, I am still on it. That is, I am battling codes on a recently purchased car. I will tell you some of what I learned about O2 sensors from the Bosch catalog, the Volvo dealer, the parts houses, and this board.

I think you have a three-wire sensor. Bosh makes universal sensors, which they claim will work just as well as the original. In the three-wire version, they only make two sensors. One has a 12-watt heater and the other has an 18-watt heater. I do not know if that is the only difference.

The universal seems to sell for about $70 - $80. The original for mine was $128 from FCP Groton. There are OEM O2 sensors for other cars (see the 700 / 900 FAQs for part numbers) that can get as cheap as $30 - $40. I crossed all of those OEM numbers back to the Bosch universal, and they all crossed to the one with the 12-watt heater. My OEM number crossed back to the universal with the 18-watt heater.

My car has Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR). Most auto parts houses and most online sources showed no difference between the models with or without EGR. I called my Volvo dealer and they gave me the OEM Volvo number, and they also saw no difference between with or without EGR, and they did not have the part. I crossed their number back through the Bosch catalog, and after verifying that number through NAPA, I ordered the part. When I took my old one out, the numbers did not match, and the plug was different. Most local houses did not even show the number of the one that came out of my car.

So, I ordered the one from FCP Groton, which had the same number as the one I removed, and which was specified as being for cars that had EGR.

So, I did spend $128 instead of $80 for a universal or $40 for a Ford version, but I did get one that I knew was correct. In part I did this because I was chasing a CEL, and if it came back on, I did not want to wonder if I had the wrong O2 sensor. Also, I live in a place where they really believe in salt in the winter and I did not want any splices under the car. In fact, my CEL did come back on, but now I don't have to wonder if I picked the wrong O2 sensor.

Charley

"I dont want to do a bunch of splicing." It is three wires so it is not that big of a deal...but, I understand your concern. Ask the guys at the parts counter for one that just plugs in. With item like an O2 sensor that are never really an emergency, I prefer to order online from a reputable company with FCP Groton (whihc has had some complaints against it lately).

But before you do all of the that, make sure you have the original connector for the O2 sensor. If the previous owner elliminated the O2 sensor, who knows what has happened to the wiring.

Onkel Udo

Hello Frank,

Just from my own observations, it's a good idea to clean the contacts at the AMM. I've had issues where corrosion caused poor contact setting off codes. After cleaning I'd apply dielectric grease.

On another note, you've prob got the 93 late model battery fuse holder. It'd be a good idea to clean those up and apply dielectric grease there as well. Here's a post on that:

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1364264/220/240/260/280/late_93_start_burnt_fuse_problem.html

Well done with that Classic. May it serve you well.

Marty Wolfson

it seems odd the car should run like that if the dealer performed all regular service.

nevertheless:

inspect/clean the flame trap including the small brass nipple on the intake manifold which the small flame trap hose connects into

once clean and or replace the vacuum hoses if you have a vacuum gauge hook it up the a vacuum line through a T so no lines are truly disconnected and ascertain if you have any vacuum leaks. the gauge will show or should the vacuum pressure area for normal operation

use a multimeter at the o2 sensor connection at the firewall. do not disconnect the sensor merely tap the live voltage from the signal wire (white i think) and see if swings actively between .4 and 1 volt after the sensor is fully heated up. if the sensor swings lazily or inactive or dead you might want to replace it.

you might want to clean carefully the idle control valve and make sure it opens and closes properly..located under the intake in its own frame. same with the Throttle Position switch located on the back edge of the intake manifold where the air duct is fastened.

the mileage is so low and with its service history i can not imagine there is anything seriously wrong. sounds like a vacuum clog or leak and maybe a tired o2 sensor.

Trichard covered allmost all of my high point for new Volvo...in particular doing ALL the vac lines. I do have a couple of extra for you:

Take the Fuel Pump/Fuel System/FI whatever relay out and resolder it or buy a new one to keep in the glovebox. Radio Suprression relay as well assuming you have one.

Do a full fusebox service including removing all the fuses, cleaning and retensioning as neccesary and replacing any of the fuses that even look a little worn on the ends.

Disconnect and clean all the grounds you can reasonably find and clean the battery clamps.

While you are doing the flametrap and vac hoses, do a throttle body cleaning as well.

Most of these can be done as time allows, but if you do them all in a marathon weekend, you have a really good baseline for the car. When you are done, take it out for an Italian tune-up.

Onkel Udo