Oh yes, the wife's car. CTQ (critical to quality) to her is that it looks good and of course the AC works. At least it uses R134. Silver, black and dark red may suffer from clear coat damage. The gray cloth should look good, gray leather may be a little cracked and worn at the lower seat back corner but otherwise OK and the yellow leather and cloth sucks up more dirt. Check the operation of everything inside.

If it's a good find it will most likely need a minimum of a five hundred dollars of catch up maintenance. Check any records. If none replace the two turbo cooler hoses first, then the remaining of the cooling system along with the radiator. Convert to synthetic oil for turbo life. Of course check the oil for water and the coolant for oil. Expect leaking seals. Look for coolant at the mushroom gasket. At this point you will soon need shocks and strut inserts if not done. Cone bushings are easy to replace. If you get the car, install a new fuel pump relay and crank sensor, for the wife's sake. (Resolder the the new fuel pump relay first. I had a new one fail which drove me nuts trying to figure out a no start.)

For a hundred bucks get the car inspected at a Volvo independent, to find any big issues and any smaller ones that need maintenance. I was lucky to get this done twice. One was a dealer car for my son. Found a long list of issues and resulted in good price reduction. Second was a private owner. The indy blew out the radiator at 15 lbs. I bought the car and we split the cost of the radiator. Plus I knew what issues needed attention like a bad pinion seal (that only leaks while driving). Checking the turbo shaft play is not something the indy will not do unless you pay a little extra.

The turbo uses a little more gas but is a pleasure with the extra power.

Let me know if you need a carfax report. Review the 700/900 FAQ. I think there is a list of checks in there.

Tom

The wife's car, a 1995 na, bought about 7 years ago. The original sticker price was 35k, paid 7k.