Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

Hi all,

I am planning a complete restoration on 122s B20 and I plan to install a set of Mikuni carbs purchased from VPD performance about a year ago.

I have no clue how to set these babies up and was wondering whether one can use the std mechanical fuel pump or does one need an electrical fuel pump?

These carbs each have only one fuel intake pipe as opposed to the su's, where the front carb had 2 intakes to pipe onto the 2nd carb.
Can one just install a T piece coming from the main fuel line?

For those who have installed these carbs, is there anything that needs special attention?

Thanks in advance.

Regards








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    Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

    FYI: 'Volvo FI To Mikuni Conversion', by Charles Risen, 37 pp, Kindle only, $2, as seen at amazon.com. Has anyone read this? (I'd have to buy or borrow a Kindle!) -Mark Axen, 1970 142S Project.








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    Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

    I would check with sreams over on Turbobricks. He races a p1800 with these carbs and they are not plug and play items. He has done much custom work on the needles to make them viable.








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    Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

    i don't mean to be rude but after "i am planing a complete resto" questions about cam choise deck height combustion chamber volume etc would appear before carb installation








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    Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

    You can use a low pressure mechanical fuel pump, under 2 PSI. Higher PSI will cause fuel overflow.

    The float valves on the Mikunis should be number 2.3 (PSI)

    Don't be surprised if you have to raise the jet needles one or two notches richer. You might need to change your main jets from 175 to 185 or higher.

    Also don't be surprised if the fuel in the float bowls expands after you shut the engine off, and drips out the ends of the little rubber hoses. I never received any answer about what to do about that - charcoal canister, maybe?
    Fire extinguisher - certainly...

    It's easier to fit the K&N filters for the first time if the rubber collars are warm. Also, the rubber couplers for the carb/manifold connection don't quite have the right hole spacing, so you will have to elongate them.

    Leave a gap between the throttle linkage and the stop on the manifold.

    The linkage design doesn't allow much leeway to adjust the idle for each carb individually.

    Don't even think of trying to start and run the car without the chokes if the weather is cool; you can make your own choke cables by modifying a bicycle brake or shifter cable so that the ferrule on the end is the right shape, the other end of the cables can be interfaced to the existing choke lever with a couple of cable clamps and a small piece of metal of the appropriate thickness
    with some holes drilled in it; I used a brass Canadian dollar coin; works great!

    Oh, and the jet needles can't be lifted out unless you adjust the throttles completely closed first; do yourself a favor and order some spare circlips for the jet needles when you order whatever parts you need; the needles are also easily bent.

    Please tell us how they work for you; there is very, very little practical
    information out there about the Volvo B18/20 installation.

    Bill








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    Installing a set of Mikuni carbs 120-130

    I have no experience with the Mikunis.. but...

    that front carb float cover on the SUs is basically just a T fitting... not two inlets. One in, one out to the second carb. I'd think a T fitting should be fine.

    Carburettors run off the floats, so as long as enough fuel gets to the floats, it should be fine. I expect the mechanical pump should do.

    Keep in mind.. you'll get 20mpg... so as long as your fuel pump can deliver a gallon of gas every 20 miles, it's all you need.

    I'm running a stock mechanical pump with my Weber DCOE's, and haven't run out of gas yet (even with no gauge and getting about 8mpg :-) )

    --
    -Matt I ♥ my ♂







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