I have seen and used two very different style of engine assembly lube... The one I first used was very thick and sticky. It got everywhere and stuck... It's like honey.

When I started to rebuild an engine for a 1939 tractor, I was worned not to use that stuff. It's simply too thick to hand crank over an engine (the tractor is a hand crank start) with that stuff if the bearings are new and tight. I was given an aerosol spray can of assembly lube. I don't remeber the brand (I can check later) but it seemed to stay where you sprayed it and was alot neater to work with. I have used that stuff since.

Chris

I've always used STP oil goop. It jsut seems thicker and more likely to be lingering int he bearings by the time you actually fire it up.

Don't use RTV silicone sealer - pretty much anywhere. I never have good results form that. Esp around hot motor oil, it just separates from what it was supposed to stick and lets the oil seep. I've had better luck with that old school Indian head Shellac, in the little brown bottles.

You can remove the distributor and drive gear, and stick something down and drive the oil pump directly, but generally speaking, that's a bit of a waste of effort IMO. Just pull the plug wire, crank for 5 - 10 seconds until the oil light goes out, then put the plug wire back on. Err, and then spend 20 minutes figuring out why it *still* won't start!! :^P

With assembly lube, the cranking shouldn't hurt anything, and the cranking gets the oil filter and passageways filled with oil so it gets pressure the instant it fires up.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t