Is there any way to remove the front struts without compressing the coil springs and then taking them to a shop and letting somebody else do that part of the job? Trying to work up the nerve to monkey with those things on my 91 240 and not feeling too groovy about it. I'm told the coiled springs on the Brick will take your head off. I'm bald, and while I'm not necessarily pleased with the ideas that pop into my noggin, I'm rather fond of it and would prefer to keep it. I got the car up lifted the control arm with a jack and was unsure how many of those coils you're supposed to grab with the spring compressor before the thing falls out of it's holder. The other issue is what type of spring compressor. I've read several accounts here where guys buy cheap ones because they will use them once or twice, or borrow them from AutoZone. I went to Sears and looked at their $58 compressors. The ones from IPD are more expensive, and they make the claim that they're the best ones for the use on Bricks. Seems best to me to try to take the whole thing off from caliper on up and let somebody else get their head knocked off. But is that possible?

Any advice appreciated.
Sincerely,

The Un-Headless Horseman.

Cuddy

I think taking the strut assy. completely off would be a mistake. The brake lines are risky to get on and off. If you do that, just buy some new lines, you may easily wreck the old ones.
I've done many of these on all my Volvos. I pull the top of the strut out, after loosening the strut nut a half turn. The I use the compressor with the coil locks, grab as many coils as possible and a ratcheting wrench to turn the nuts on the compressor..
You can tell the spring is loose as it will spin easily once you get it compressed. I carefully lift the spring off and put it outside the garage.
--
84 242Ti IPD bars&springs, 89 745 16v M46 IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPD bars, 90 745 AW70, 91 245SE AW70 IPD bars, 93 245 CLassic M47

Spend some time on YouTube.... there's one where some kids unscrew a strut assembly one the ground without compressing the spring... one half goes one way... the other half goes the other, and kid winds up face first on the ground. Stupid to do, impressive to watch. Lots of energy in there.

With a good, well cared for spring compressor... there's not that much risk. Just remember that 240 springs are a little bigger than the Sears ones are rated for.

Only trick to getting the strut assembly off the car is the brake calipers and lines... which twist all the way around the struts (doh!). Volvo got much smarter here with the 740: two caliper bolts, to ball joint screws and your off.

-Ryan


--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

The Sears spring compressor and the IPD version are the same manufacturer and work fine with Volvo springs.
Dan

James,

Yes, a strut coil spring can kill you when it's energy is spontaneously released. So in short, respect it, use the right process/tools, and don't fear it. I made the mistake once of letting a spring that had two compressors on it roll off the bench and hit the floor, the compressors slipped off due to the impact, the spring hit the wall, broke a cinder block, traveled two feet and got stuck half way into the passenger side door. Once again respect, not fear.

I don't care what the manual says about doing a strut swap with the strut assembly still hooked to the car, that's the wrong way to do it... respect.

In short, never undo the center strut nut up top with the assembly still in the car, remove the three bolts up top that hold the strut to the inner body. Now unbolt the caliper from the strut assembly, hang it with a coat hanger so the hose isn't stressed, unclip the brake hoses from the lower strut tube. Now remove the four small bolts that hold the top of the lower ball joint to the strut assembly, pry the A-arm down, and pull out the strut assembly. Note that in this state, the strut assembly is totally safe and contained.

Now take the strut assembly, lay it on the bench and install the two spring compressors, grab as many coils as you can with them. Crank the compressors down a little each side at a time, you don't want the spring to curve side to side too much. Crank them down to the point where there is an inch or two of slop between the ends of the spring and the upper/lower spring seats.

To be safe, have the strut assembly perpendicular to where you are standing (out of the line of fire). Now, undo the center upper strut nut, followed by the upper bearing plate/spring plate. Now pull the lower strut assembly out of the spring. Leave the compressed spring where it is on the bench.

Finally, replace the strut in the lower strut tube. Re-insert the lower strut assembly into the compressed spring on the bench, place the upper plate on the end of the strut rod, and install the center nut. Now its time to evenly loosen the spring compressors while making sure the spring ends line up right against the upper and lower plates.

Note that the only time "respect" is warranted is when the spring is compressed and the center strut nut is off.... That being said, I broke my right pinky finger this evening while replacing a water pump... pneumatic ratchet, counter-hold screw driver slipped... snap!

jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Has anyone tried or given thought to this approach:
Remove the retaining nut completely before doing anything else. Then jack up the vehicle at the normal jacking point to unload the coil. Once the tire is off the ground, remove the tire, brake parts and swing out the strut for easy removal of the upper spring seat plate, bumper and coil.

Seems like it could work as long as you could get the clearance to rotate the strut out of the wheel well with the control arm still connected. removing the end links may be the key to success.

Now what is the process to stick it all back together? I would guess reassembling the coil, bumper and upper plate, rotate in and align with the strut bearing. Loosely hold in place somehow, install brake parts, tire and then slowly drop the car, thus compressing the spring.

My friend who works as a VW mechanic suggested this method. However, I suspect having a lift makes this much easier. Any thoughts on if this is possible with a 240?
What is the fully unloaded length of the standard front coils?
What is the maximum angle of the ball joint.
--
'82 245 B21F-MPG (LH 1.0) 192k, '83 244 B23F (LH 2.0) 164k

I routinely change the shocks by simply tilting the assembly out of the wheel well, but that can only be done if the strut is still assembled. Once tilted out, the spring compressor is used to remove the plate. Takes about 30-45 minutes a side.

The only thing managing the energy in the spring is the compressor tool, to attempt this job without the proper tool is asking for trouble. Dan

Jorrell,

Sorry to hear about the broken finger. Our cars demand blood, but they give heart and soul. Hopefully my head will be in the same place it is now when this job's over. Advice deeply appreciated.

Best,
Cuddy

To answer your question: Yes! You can remove the whole strut assembly without releasing the coil spring.

HOWEVER...to do so requires removal of the brake lines from the strut tube...which means you will need to rebleed the brakes after getting the strut assembly back.

AND you must be really good at releasing the brake line connecting nuts without damage. (Good luck on that!!)

And you will need to release the lower ball joint and steering rod ends.

Once you have the lower portion released, the three nuts on top of the strut towers that are used to adjust wheel alignment and hold the upper strut mount to the body can be released. The insert at this point( Unless damaged) will hold the coil spring together so you can transport to a shop.

You can tell if the insert is holding by how far the wheel drops when you jack up the auto using the vehicles jack at the jack point. If the wheel clears the ground, the insert is holding.

Now, if you want to do it yourself, Harbor Freight has a decent clamp type spring compressor that is frustrating for the first time user (BTDT and had swapped six inserts before using the clamp type) but is safe and will get the job done with less effort than the single "rod" type compressors that you walk the spring compressed with.

Tip. Jack the auto up under the control arm, place safety stands, remove wheel, BREAK LOOSE no more than ONE TURN the strut retaining nut before you install the clamp compressor while everything is still bolted to the rest of the suspension and the jack is under the control arm. If needed, lower the jack only enough to get wrench through or insert the clamp ends through the coils. That one step will save a lot of wrenching to compress the spring.

Once you have the clamp in place, then follow Bentley for replacing the inserts.

REMEMEBER to release the brake lines from the body BEFORE you release the top of the strut.

Duane


Swap the

Let me offer some options and thoughts that may ease the pain (no pun intended) of replacing front struts. I won't repeat the helpful tips responding already to your post.

Spring compressors can also be rented. I rented a set from Advance Auto. It cost about $54 for up to 45 days. But wait! You get your money back - all of it - when you return the tool. Sweet.

As for some details. I position the compressors 180 degrees opposite, one forward and the other aft of the coil spring. Spread the compressor claws to grasp the middle four coils. That's enough to give you room for compression.

I work each compressor alternately. Probably start with ten half turns on one then the same on the other. I also use a tape measure to make sure that the compression is even on both sides.

I'll know that I am about at the point of finishing when I can separate the bottom or top of the coil from its mounting plate with the flat blade of big screwdriver wedged between them. Now its time to finish removing the top nut.

There are more subtleties. Not all things are equal which just adds to the challenge and man's urges to conquer and avoid future mistakes being repeated.
I've pasted a webpage address of my experiences I put together to remind myself there is a better way to avoid past misery.

http://www.sitemaker.umich.edu/mdmmath.aghs/mr._metcalf_s_interest_in__old__volvos

This might give you pause to plan this project for success.

Happy New Year and good luck,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Mike, thanks for the advice and I got the pictures from your site as well.

Best,
Cuddy

Hi Cuddy:

Yes, they are dangerous, but I recently replaced my front struts and used a borrowed spring compressor from AutoZone. This was my 5th set of struts to replace, and all went well. The first strut took longer than the second did. I think I was done with the second strut in 15 minutes.

Loosen the top nut, but leave it well attached, on the strut before you start.

I compressed five of the springs. If the spring compressor is engaged securely and directly across from each other, you will be okay.

Keep your head away from the top of the strut assembly, just in case.

Once you have released the tension from the top of the assembly, finish loosening the top strut nut, then remove the compressed spring.

Set it aside and you are ready to remove the strut insert.

Be sure you have a gland nut wrench, it makes a huge difference.

Also, adding the penetrant oil of your choice to the gland nut also helps a lot.

Installation is the opposite of removal...

Good Luck and BE CAREFUL!



--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 255K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

It's no problem at all. Simply remove the upper three nuts, and release the ball joint at the control arm end, sway bar, tie rod end, and brake caliper and brake line anchor. Remove the entire strut in the assembled condition and take it to a good suspension shop. They'll have a wall-mounted strut compressor, and remove the upper bearing and cup and install the shock absorber in no time. Then just re-install it. An alignment will be needed of course.
Good idea for those who lack the tools or experience.

There is a large amount of stored energy in the compressed springs and they could easily kill you if you are not careful. But if you use good tools and pay attention there very little chance of a problem.
Sears sells basically the same spring compressor as IPD. This is the tool I have and it is a quality item. Dan

Thanks Dan. I'll give the Sears ones a try. When you push the car up by the control arms until it can't go any further, how many of those coils do you put the compressor to? There are about six or seven of those coils going up into the seat. And when you tighten them down, which side should the tighening bolt be on, the top side or the bottom side?

Thanks,

Cuddy

If you don't have one get a Bentley manual also, search for directions on the BB.
I install the compressors across from each other on the spring and span as many of the coils you can, I tighten from the top of the spring. and do this with the suspension hanging and not trying to pre-compress the springs.
The important thing to remember is never place yourself over the spring when it is compressed.
Dan

I have the Bentley manual, and just want to be clear. So once you loosen the top strut nut, your lower the control arms with your jack, and THEN put your spring compressor to use, correct?

I loosen the top center strut nut with the car on the ground but do not take it off. Jack up the front end and place on jack stands, take off the tire and then put the compressor on. There are other things that need to be done (remove tie rod ends, sway bar links, brake hose mount, lower the strut assembly etc...) and in correct order. Please refer to complete instructions and sequences that can be found by searching the BB. Study the procedures and plan out the job. Dan

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1065971/220/240/260/280/new_shocks_struts_volvo_240_sadan_sturts_srpings.html%0A

If you do the job yourself, please take your time and use clamps that have the locking pins. They absolutely can kill you.
--
93' 240 Classic Wagon 220K & 92' 740 Wagon Regina/Rex 90K

This is why I wish my car had separate shocks and springs, not these struts.
This is also why I did my rear shocks, but not my front "struts".
Blegh. Not worth the risk in my opinion.

Good luck if you try it,
Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond