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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by dindo on Sun Dec 21 23:28 CST 2008
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last visit: Fri Aug 3 03:10 CST 2012

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I was offered a set of 5 minilite wheels, 6.5 x 14 at a giveaway price. The only catch is the PCD is 114 (for BMWs)with an offset of 30 mm for rear wheel drive vehicles. A machinist/friend advised me that the stud bolts can be repositioned to fit the wheels. The use of stud spacers is also out of the question since the offset is 30 mm. as compared to the standard 20 mm offset of Volvo for rear wheel drive vehicles. There is no more space to use a stud spacer. My concerns are:

1. Is repositioning the stub bolts to 114 doable and safe?
2. Is machining the wheels from an original 30 mm to 20 mm to prevent tire rubbing on the inside fender an acceptable practice?

Your comments and inputs will be highly appreciated

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by David Samuels on Fri Dec 26 13:11 CST 2008
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last visit: Mon Oct 20 12:23 CST 2014

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With the offset you mentioned, even a 6.5" wide rim might have enough room behind it for a wheel adaptor. Adaptors don't have to be very thick to "hide" the fasteners. 740 rims, with a bit more positive offset--I think 30mm (offset toward the center of the car) than 240 rims, fit the 240s, but they really sit too far in on the rear. Spacers and longer studs get the tire closer to the fender lip and make the whole setup look better. I think you should borrow a rim, put it on the car, and then experiment with a stack of washers to see how far out you can move the rim and still get clearance at the fender lip. Check at the front for clearance to the strut spring perch too. If you've got 5/8 to 3/4 to play with, call Fred at wheeladaptor.com and get adaptors. In fact, the other day there was a guy on Turbobricks sellling a set of adaptors to go from our 5 x 108 to 5 x 114. Hmmm! Wonder what they were from...BMW???

Regards,
DS

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by dindo on Fri Dec 26 13:59 CST 2008
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last visit: Fri Aug 3 03:10 CST 2012

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Thank you for all the inputs. I agree that the best thing to do right now is fit (despite of the fact that it will not fit the bolt pattern) the minilite wheel on the front hub as close as possible and check for clearance issues as far as the offset is concerned.

Comparing both inside hubs (OE Volvo steel rim) and the Minilite wheel, the Minilite wheel is about an inch taller than the stock rim. What is your interpretation of this?

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by David Samuels on Fri Dec 26 15:27 CST 2008
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last visit: Mon Oct 20 12:23 CST 2014

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Indeed it's going to be a balancing act to get the rim positioned such that you can take measurements. Fortunately the face of the rim is open enough between the spokes that a tape measure can be gotten through! Don't neglect the back end though. While I agree that clearance at the spring seat up front is a much more critical issue, incorrect clearance at the back will have the inside wall of the tires rubbing the inside of the fender well every time you climb a driveway entrance.

As to the height, not unusual. Rim height not usually measured at the outside diameter, but on the seating area inside. My experience is that alloy rims have a wider seat area above the measured point. Perhaps to compensate for the fact that aluminum is not as hard as steel? It certainly takes more stretching to get tires on alloys than on steelies.

DS

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by volvo245gti on Mon Dec 22 02:13 CST 2008
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last visit: Sat Sep 13 16:32 CST 2014

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Re-drilling the hubs has been done before. 5X114.3 can be done safely according to those who have done it although the rears may require welding up of the old holes as the axle retainer bolt access holes will cause issues.. If you're going to re-drill the hubs, get a longer stud and some 10mm spacers to correct the offset...

If you decide against this, I'd love a set of Minilites for my 123GT...
--
Dale

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by dindo on Mon Dec 22 14:00 CST 2008
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last visit: Fri Aug 3 03:10 CST 2012

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Thanks for the assurance. I just did not get what you mean by using longer studs and a 10 mm spacer to correct the offset. When I compared the 14" OE stock steel rim of the 240 with the minilites, the offset of the minilites is about an inch taller/higher compared with the steel rim. I assume that since the minilite has a "taller" offset, the wheels will tend to come out of the fenders.

Should this happen, I might even consider having the wheels machined to remove 10 mm. and finish off with the 20 mm offset.

Is my line of thinking correct or otherwise?

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by JohnMc on Mon Dec 22 02:42 CST 2008
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014

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Yeah, I was going to say you can't machine off 10mm and correct those wheels, you need to add 10mm.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by dindo on Mon Dec 22 14:05 CST 2008
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last visit: Fri Aug 3 03:10 CST 2012

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Sorry for the confusion, what I meant by "the higher offset of the minilite", I was referring to the center hub of the inside of the wheel. When measured, the "center/hub" of the minilite is "taller" by about 10 mm.

I may have a wrong interpretation. Can you help me sort this out?

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Wrong PCD, pros and cons of conversion of bolt pattern 200 1987

posted by volvo245gti on Wed Dec 24 09:57 CST 2008
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last visit: Sat Sep 13 16:32 CST 2014

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Based on your response, I'm guessing you're a little unsure of what is meant by offset and, to be honest, I'm not exactly sure what you're describing.

The offset of a vehicle's wheel is the distance between the vertical centerline (between the rims) of the wheel and the vertical plane of the hub-mounting surface of the wheel ...

If your new wheels have a 30mm (assuming negative here) offset it means the hub-mating surface is 10mm closer to the outboard rim of the wheel or 10mm further out than a stock 240 wheel. This means the wheel will sit 10mm further inboard and hence the recommendation of some 10mm spacers to keep the wheel/tire off the strut tower. You also want to keep the wheel/tire combination on the front as close to the stock position as possible as changing where the wheel sits in relation to the hub will alter the steering geometry. This isn't a huge deal on a track-only car but on a daily driver you don't want the negatives that come with messing with the offset. Been there, done that...

Many people add spacers to the rear of the 240 as the stock position places the rear wheels some 2" inside the fronts, meaning the rear tires do not follow directly behind the front tires and give the perception that the car is "dog-tracking" when viewed from behind.

Hope that helps...

--
Dale

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