Sunday was my birthday. The very first thing I did that morning was get in my car and drive to church. Didn't even eat breakfast. It was my pastor's wife who rear-ended me at the top of the off-ramp from the interstate. Also, just a month before, the impossible happened: my wife allowed me to bring home another Volvo, an 87 245 GL. Drove it home for $175, needs a starter, tires, and an odometer fix.

Is this all a coincidence, or was this meant to happen? My 244 is my first older Volvo, and I have just been pathetically moping around, trying to decide the fate of my beloved car for which I have developed much sentiment.

I have yet to speak with the total loss agent, but I have found out that the body shop's estimate of $1600 for repairs will deem this car as a total loss to AAA, the other car's insurer.

The other car hit my passenger side rear bumper, smashing my taillight and punching in the rear panel a bit. The trunk works fine, but there's more gap on both sides than there should be. The shock impact rail under the trunk was pushed in, and the bolt that should be visible under the trunk trim has been dragged under the trunk floor, and slightly farther forward is a buckle in the floor. The rear quarter panel was pushed forward, making a zero gap for the rear passenger side door to close.

There is no change in driveability, although I'm afraid that I might find out later that the car will be eating tires.

I want the insurance company to fix it. Is there a way for me to convince them that the car is worth, and I have put more than, $1600 into this car, and appeal the decision to make it a total loss? Or should I just fight for a larger check than what they will probably offer, buy the car back, and part it out for my new wagon?

By the way, the other car (a very new Toyota) was also totaled, with a $7600 estimate. When I first stepped out of my car after the accident, I was flabbergasted at how little damage I suffered compared to the other car.

thanks for reading, and for your help,

Josh in IL

Well, first, thanks to everyone for your input.

Just yesterday, I got a call back from the total loss agent. Everyone here told me that I must negotiate over whatever their first offer is, but I was expecting something piddley, less than $1000. The agent told me that they value my car at $2250, and the buyback was only $150! I was so surprised, that I just went right on and accepted it. I was told that I'll get a check sometime before the end of the week for $2075, so problem solved.

If I didn't mention it before, I was dealing with the St. Louis branch of AAA. I'm quite happy with the results.

Thanks again,

Josh in IL

I know 2 people who totalled Volvo 240s in the last 5 years and they each were given checks for less than $500.

Those folks who received less than $500 just didn't try hard enough. An insurance company's job is to give you as little as possible. Sometimes what's fair to them is also fair to you. When GMAC (the insurer of the pickup driver who wrecked my 940 Turbo and my wife's Saab 900S all in one shot) offered $2850 (with a $200 buy back) for the Saab I agreed happily (as I had been unsucessfully trying to sell it at $1500). They offered $1400 for the Volvo which I considered insulting--the car was in absolutely terrific shape in every area--but negotiating brought them to $2300 with a $150 buy back. That was this past year. In 1989 my 1969 144S was rear ended. They offered $400--negotiated to a total of $1300. Sometime in the 90's the rusty '74 Alfetta GT that was given to me was rear ended. They offered $1700 and $0 buy back--I grabbed it before they could change their minds. Each of these dealings were with the other driver's insurance. I did take note of--but didn't put my 2 cents worth in while on the road--another thread about a total loss 245. On it, a poster made an incorrect observation regarding the worth of scrapped cars. I've been doing some "scapping" this past year as a part time thing. Whole cars and number 1 metal (heavy steel, cast iron) were paying $10 per 100 lbs for quite a while-spiked to $12 and even $14--but now have dropped to $4. This is in the NY metro area--in NC where my son has a shop, they pay less. A 20 something year old Volvo is of no interest to the junk yards that buy parts cars from the insurance companies--it's going to get scapped for nearly nothing.

Thanks so much for the thoughts. I'll post the final news as soon as everything is over.


- Josh in IL

Here's my recent experience with my '83 245. Lady does a let hand turn in front of me. All damage to me is limited to front end forward of engine cowl. I have my car towed to my home. I had just done a thorough suspension overhaul front and rear myself and had a shop do clutch replacement and tome transmission work. So lot's of my money went into the car just before the tragic wreck.

The lady's insurance co. adjuster comes to the house and concludes it's totaled (I agree, I can see some front frame damage). I point out the work I had done evn beyond the recent stuff. He finally tells me I'm not going to like his onsite estimate and says it doesn't look right to him. He calls me back later in the day with a new improved calculation. If I keep the car and then the salvage cost of $150 is subtracted, I could get $420. He stills seems to hint that even this is not fair and that he's referring it to the "total loss adjusters" and perhaps I should direct all recent receipts, etc. to them. I follow his tip, and I fax everything I got (24 pages!) including tax bills and comparable CraigsList postings. They respond with a slightly higher estimate of around $750 after subtracting the salvage of $150. I call up this adjuster and ask why. He says the paint is bad (ok), high mileage of 283K (what do you expect for a 25 year old car, duh!), receipts were older than 60 days (car was on jackstands for 2 months while I made numerous part purchases), and the dueling went on. Finally, I firmly told him I wasn't going to accept this offer and for him to go back to rework the estimate. Several days later he calls with a net offer of $1070. I accept it, buy a newer 245 and swap suspension parts while pulling other parts I want to keep off the wreck.

Don't let them push you around. Also, I had no collision insurance on this car. Basically then, I was on my own with no help from my own insurance company.
--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT

If you know they are going to total it & you know you want to buy it back, this day & time your are better off not going into detail with what you have in the car. Am older car like you have now.

insurance companies are hurting, if they realize you have a vested interest in the vehicle, they will jack up the by-back cost. Plus The price of metal is still pretty high, so your Avg Volvo is worth around 300 buxs at the avg scrap yard... so your by back price will be what they can get out of it as it stands... The good old days of buying back a wreck for a bill, are over with for a long time...

Just my opinion...
Matt

I agree totally. Uh, bad choice of thought. With the other posters.

The blue book prices! Devised to make all cars more cheaper, quickly!

With the insurance companies pushing towards the wholesale side for themselves. The Blue book legitimizes the collusion between other the corporate entities of the automotive industry.

I had only to buy one new vehicle and insure it for the bankers to teach me the Blue Book lesson!

I don't carry collision on my cars. Only comprehensive. Then they only say "actual cash value". I've tried to find out what that was once. I was told the "total out guy" decides that "After the accident".

Ever tried to sell or buy a car that smashed.....
So basically, insurance is like the Johnny Carson skit. Envelope to the forehead? He knows the answer before you do.

Both car drivers get disappointed. Later, they get to spend more money to get down the road, again!

The insurance rate is finite amount with unknown pay back. Like Vegas slots!

They may raise your rate because you bothered them. It cost them to be involved in your bad day. Your fault or not!

Since your going get beat up in this rigged fight. Throw in your best punches and argue.

You got to stick it to them by not buying a replacement/new car and insuring it to the hilt!

They'll have a time limit to settle within. You don't.

I loved the tow bill angle! Your angle is: They are ahead of the game because you were "not" driving the "average value car" like another Toyota, that they could have been, totaling out! They have more budget figured with a formula of "calculated risk" into the other persons policy! Same with your own policy!

Don't let them be cheap on you, then they can spend the savings on those famous, CEO spa treatments!

How about the inconvenience of having to go car owner hunting. The repair rental savings. Then the worst of all....dealing with car salesmen! Oh! The duress!

Your time is some money too! Punch, Punch!

I was rear-ended in my 84 245 and am now happily driving around in my "salvaged" vehicle I bought back from the insurance company. Really didn't want to give it up, because I'd been through this car, and most things were handled. It held up to the crash real well. Hard to tell it one was hit. It handles perfectly, and the tires wear evenly. ( total loss, though, for the new bumper, tail light, and under the bumper body work.)

It's like Jorrell says...bluebook value and the buy back price. $300 I think for mine. My expenses were a vehicle inspection and re-registration. Like you. I think, I felt like I had a lot more invested in mine that the $1500 or so they said it was worth.

The biggest hassle for me, a Californian, spoiled buy never needing to get inspected, was the cost of the inspection fee, getting my head lights adjusted, and arguing with the inspection mechanic over play in the one year old tie-rod. They kind of had me over a barrel, once I got involved with them, but they weren't crooks. (just owned a boat, I think)

Hope this helps,
Steve

Ouch,

They will total it with that much damage. Even if you can show them every receipt, they will only consider the blue book value of the car. If you decide to buy it back to fix it, the car will have to be put on a frame rack to straighten it back out, this is not cheap.

My advice would be to buy it back for parts, and this is where you can negotiate with the insurance company. When ours was totaled, they wanted $600 for the buyback. I then asked them where they would tow it to if I didn't buy it back. There response was to Charlotte (about 100 miles away). Anyway, I convinced them that they could save $200 on not doing the tow if I bought it back.... Long story short, I bought it back for $400.

jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Get more estimates including one for your use only, NOT to be shown to anyone else.
Body parts are available used but many body shops insist on new parts, which pushes their estimates out of sight.
You may find it worthwhile to scrounge your own parts and maybe even install some of them.
And DON'T sign anything until you are SURE you are satisfied! Remember YOU were not at fault -
you don't owe the insurance company anything is this deal and you are doing them a favor by signing off.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!